Keep track of the highlights from the shows, frows, parties and backstage at London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2017...
More graphic patterns and oversizing at Marques Almeida where uniform monochrome was broken up with jolts of vibrant acid hues.
J. JS Lee
Gorgeous tailored coats with exaggerated proportions stood out on the runway at J. JS Lee.
Graphic harlequin prints brought colour to Isa Arfen’s presentation on Tuesday.
Beauty: Isa Arfen
The crimping we saw earlier in the week at Fyodor Golan and Anissa Aida appeared again at Isa Arfen, paired with a bare-faced beauty look. On the models whose hair was covered, the eyes did the talking...
What we’re wearing to LFW
Fashion Director Alexandra Fullerton in a Zoë Jordan jumper, Marc Jacobs skirt, Car Shoe shoes and Mon Purse bag.
Fashion Assistant Sophie Henderson in a Zara top, Hobbs coat, Topshop jeans, Mango shoes, H&M earrings and JW Anderson bag.
Fashion Editor Lucy Reber in a Diesel jacket, Allude jumper, Cos t-shirt, Current/Elliot jeans and Gucci shoes.
Artworks by West Yorkshire sculptor Henry Moore dotted the runway at Burberry, complementing the structural tone of the Christopher Bailey’s autumn/winter ‘17 offering and serving as the opening for a free week-long exhibition in Soho entitled Henry Moore: Inspiration and Process. Moore was also born in Castleford, where Burberry has always made its trenches.
Workwear denim, cable knits, ruffles and shoulder capes became works of art in Bailey’s hands, with each model donning an ornate cape for the finale in honour of Moore’s preoccupation with the strength of the upper torso.
Burberry front row
Spotting our new favourite jumper...
The collection was heavily influenced by American sportswear but made clear its opposition to the country’s controversial president through a series of vibrant slogan jumpers and tops carrying messages including “Nasty Woman”, “Pussy grabs back” and “Unity in adversity”.
Following Donald Trump’s surprise victory last year, a t-shirt emblazoned with the word “Immigrant” that was specially made for Ashish Gupta to wear at his SS17 show went on sale at Browns.
Another modest showing at Joseph where dark florals and paisley prints were mixed, matched and spliced in masculine tailoring.
Space age came to the Christopher Kane catwalk on Monday with quirky iridescent colours, angular cuts and cosmic prints.
What we’re wearing to LFW
Ice Queen was the theme at Sophia Webster, who showed her pearlescent collection in an ice village complete with life-size snow globe.
Beauty: Sophia Webster
Rebecca Jade Wilson used Orly’s Rose Coloured Glasses finished with glittery tips to create the “Frosted French”.
Pringle of Scotland
Clothes to cosy up in at Pringle of Scotland...
Form-fitting floor-length gowns glided down the runway in a blaze of modesty at Erdem, where femininity was explored through swathes of rich fabric. Brocade, velvet, embroidery, sequins, lace and posy print florals covered arms, ankles and collarbones while oversize outerwear made a glamorous statement.
We’ve already seen strong Western influences at Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Ashley Williams and House of Holland but it was at Roksanda where gentle references to the theme were fused with elements from the East for a subtle, polished sophistication.
High-impact cocktail dresses and jewel-adorned jumpers shone on the runway at Antonio Berardi on Monday morning.
Detail: Antonio Berardi
What we’re wearing to LFW
Fashion Assistant Sophie Henderson wears a H&M top, Topshop trousers, Vans shoes and a JW Anderson bag.
Executive Fashion Director Kitty McGee wears a Topshop jumper, Joseph trousers, Gucci shoes and a Celine bag.
Fashion Editor Lucy Reber wears a Whistles coat, Gap t-shirt, Frame jeans and Gucci shoes.
Shopping in central London has got a whole lot easier thanks to a free taxi service Selfridges is putting on for customers.
In a bid to reduce traffic emissions and encourage sustainable living, BMW is loaning the department store a fleet of its electric i3s models to whizz shoppers to their next destination without polluting the atmosphere. The service is available in London and Manchester until April 9.
The designer enlisted friend Fearne Cotton to model a retro white PVC outfit and white ankle boots.
Scenes from Disney’s Fantasia appeared on shimmering evening gowns at Mary Katrantzou on Sunday evening.
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Beauty: Mary Katrantzou
It may have been Mary Katrantzou’s AW17 show, but backstage, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander (who was working with MAC) took her inspiration from a spring tradition: Easter eggs. Each of the models’ eyes were dashed with pastel tones of pink, orange, yellow and blue, much like the colour palette of Mini Eggs.
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Floral embroidery, sheer delicate lace and er, eyeballs, lips and insects appeared at Temperley London as Alice Temperley looked to the “bizarre and beautiful” for detailing in her autumn/winter ‘17 collection.
Detail: Temperley London
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Form fitting gowns with cut-outs, panelling and strap detailing meshed function with frippery at David Koma, while quilted outerwear came in olive-coloured satin with glamorous oversize shaggy collars.
Meet your newest bag crushes...
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A folksy feel at Peter Pilotto where chunky embroidery, tassels, tweed and quilting came in an earthy palette splashed with burnt orange.
Detail: Peter Pilotto
Another seasonless buy-it-now offering from Topshop Unique, with stripes, ‘90s-inspired slogans, biker cuts and extra-long sleeved slouchy jumpers hitting the runway on models including Lily Donaldson, Adwoa Aboah and Stella Maxwell, as well as upcoming stars Lottie Moss (Kate’s niece) and Sistine Rose Stallone (Sly’s daughter).
What we’re wearing to LFW
Editor Susan Riley in a Marks & Spencer jacket, Zara dress, Rupert Sanderson boot and Cambridge Satchel Company bag.
Fashion Director Alexandra Fullerton in an army surplus jacket, Topshop jeans, Cos jumper and Saint Laurent shoes.
Executive Fashion Director Kitty McGee in a Tibi top, Topshop jeans and Gucci loafers.
After 10 years in Paris, the label behind the icon Galaxy dress returned to London Fashion Week to celebrate 20 years in fashion.
Mouret’s anniversary collection for autumn/winter ‘17 was also the first fashion show to be held at the National Theatre. He had reworked some classics from his archive as part of his “celebration of the female form” with fluid silhouettes, origami cuts and thoughtful drapery.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
There was a just-got-out-of-bed theme to some looks at Preen - not a lazy pyjama style or a messy Tracey Emin My Bed - but a fragrant, floral haven full of passionate kisses – hence the eiderdown duvet coat and the models’ wildly smudged berry lips and undone hair.
Beauty: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Following on from last season’s pressed flower faces, nail artist Marian Newman sprinkled the teeniest tiniest buds onto the models’ fingertips. She painted them with a clear top coat, placing tiny flowers (which you can buy on Amazon) on with tweezers and then sealing with a second layer of top coat.
Flower pressing has never been cooler.
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Welcome to winter wonderland, Anya Hindmarch style. A first glance at the catwalk backdrop may suggest a space theme, but the setis actually an “architectural abstract mountain side” with Swedish folk art, skiing, Alpine lodges and the romantic side of winter providing inspiration for the famously quirky accessories designer.
Clothes features layered textures of wool, sheepskin and felt while shaggy fur slippers felt like a less serious take on the Gucci loafers.
Watch: Anya Hindmarch
Detail: Anya Hindmarch
Boxy bags and purses came in multiples, stacked or fastened together, while more familiar styles came in playful metallic shades featuring cartoon eyes or chains resembling retro paper chain decorations.
Detail: Anya Hindmarch
Donatella brought in the big guns for her show as she delighted in her proclamation ‘the supermodel is back’.
The Hadid sisters, Stella Maxwell, Adwoah Aboah and Taylor Hill were punk-gothed and logo-ed up in the Italian designer’s sexy sportswear aesthetic.
Versus front row
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Bug eyes and blue lips made for a dramatic beauty look to accompany Pugh’s politically charged show.
House of Holland
Yee-haw! It was rodeo time at HH where denim, tassels, flares, checkerboard prints and Holland’s signature tartan played out with a retro cartoonish feel.
Beauty: House of Holland
Ciara O’Shea, global make-up artist for The Body Shop, created this explosive, sunset-inspired look at House of Holland. Skin was kept natural while playful, colourful shades decorated the lid. She blended deep green across the socket then buffed an orange shadow at the crease. She added a hint of pink glitter to highlight the inner corner of the eye to catch the light as the models walked the runway. Lashes were kept bare – not even a curl, just a touch of The Body Shop’s new Lash Hero Extension in Texas Topaz to the lower lash (available in July).
Common notions of masculinity and femininity were meshed together at Simone Rocha, where boxy utilitarian outerwear was silhouettes came in soft satin materials or covered in dark floral prints. Rocha had cast two models in their seventies and one in her fifties to help showcase the collection.
Plush velvet, bold florals and modest crop tops stood out at Emilia Wickstead...
More elegant deconstruction at JW Anderson, where loose utilitarian styles came in jewel and metallic satin and ostrich feathers lost their wispy extravagance sewn into extreme drop-waist skirts.
Deconstructed tailoring, sturdy knitwear and big, bold embellishments at Ports 1961’s return to the LFW circuit.
Tulle master Molly Goddard threw a catwalk afternoon tea party, where the notion of ‘girly’ party dresses was embraced and exaggerated, with intensely bright block colours, ruffles galore and oversize everything...
Making us fall in love with autumn florals...
It’s not a Julien Macdonald show without a hefty dose of sequins, shimmer and glamour and the designer’s strikingly intricate collection of autumn/winter ‘17 gowns was no exception.
Taking inspiration from the legendary surrealist and designer H.R. Giger – best known for designing Ridley Scott’s creature in Alien – as well as the hypnotic architectural silhouettes in Fritz Lang’s 1927 sci-fi film Metropolis, Macdonald’s designs took on an other-worldly feel in the supremely ornate surroundings of Goldsmiths Hall.
Using a distinct palette of black, red and light metallics, layers of hand-stitched Swarovski crystals and sequins were engineered into armour-like formations in combination with Macdonald’s signature spider knits and cutaway detailing. The men’s embellished jumpers and jackets were also a favourite with the Stylist women – to wear for themselves.
Winnie Harlow closed the show in an electric floor-length black spider-knit cutaway design to cheers from a room packed with showgoers.
Beauty: Julien Macdonald
Val Garland created a soft look for the eyes with smokey black matte lids and no mascara or eyeliner. Lips had the slightest touch of colour while skin was kept natural with just a hint of highlighter on the cheekbones.
Loose fitting dresses emblazoned with jagged monochrome and chocolate prints were standout looks that swept through the Jasper Conran catwalk at Claridges.
Kicking off Saturday morning with a vibrant Harajuku-inspired beauty look lovingly crafted by Isamaya Ffrench and Victoria Curtis using, you guessed it, Mac.
Beauty: Ryan Lo
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Think 1970s geometric patterns, Harley Quinn and disco Joan of Arc and you get a tiny snapshot of the eclectic offerings at Sadie Williams’ fabulous “folk art disco” presentation. Hand-collage printed sweatshirts were slashed and folded like folk quilts, while patchwork was given a glamorous spin with shiny fabrics.
Detail: Sadie Williams
Beauty: Time to dig the crimpers out…
The crinkle look popped up at Anissa Aida and at Fyodor Golan, where Syd Hayes had created deep crimps in patches of the hair.
“Misery” and “Paranoia” may have popped up as messages on hoodies and the designer’s famous glittery barrettes but with Western influences, Clueless-esque yellow tartan plaid and puffy sleeve florals the collection was more lighthearted than its slogans would suggest. The models were ordinary folk Williams cast after putting a call-out on Instagram.
The “Savile Row woman” appeared at Daks with Glen plaid, herringbone and pinstripe taking shape on cropped trouser suits, boxy tops, tiered ruffle skirts and Sherlock-worthy coats. The office tie popped up as one of the few accessories, along with classic beanie hats.
Little-known Suffragette Princess Sophia Duleep Singh provided the inspiration at Bora Aksu, where florals, frills and lace played out on loose cuts with demure round necklines.
Beauty: Orange fever
The eyes and lips have it at Fyodor Golan and Eudon Choi.
Marc Jacobs gave us jumper sleeve scarves in New York, now it’s the turn of Eudon Choi to deliver jumper shawls...
Time for a trip to Ryman’s – Post-it notes are in. Yes, those fluorescent sticky notes that are forever fluttering off computer screens adorned PVC skirts and shirts at the label’s typically colourful show, along with unicorn colour coats, puffy arm warmers and plenty of animal print.
Teatum Jones kicked off London Fashion Week with a collection inspired by “a love of human stories and and rejecting the idea of the perfect human form.”
Two models with physical disabilities were cast for the show; Kelly Knox, who was born without the lower half of her right arm and amputee Jack Eyers. The label also played a soundtrack of Donald Trump mocking disabled New York Times reporter Serge Kovaleski.
The collection featured plush satin and velvet in earthy autumn tones, with materials drawn together with black ribbon woven through giant silver hoops.