Keep track of highlights from the London Fashion Week spring/summer '17 shows, frows, parties and backstage...
South Place - a stylish haven for Fashion Week
Heading back to the comfort of the South Place hotel after back-to-back shows was the ultimate luxury for Fashion Director Alexandra Fullerton - read her review here.
What a way to cheer off LFW. The young label used Instagram to cast models and invite fans to the show - a mix of their signature raw denim, rock influences and a hint of baroque.
Day four at LFW: Alexandra Fullerton reports from the front row
Mega Monday at LFW is full of our city's biggest names and dazzling talent with the power to pull in Anna Wintour. Day four started with Antonio Berardi. It was slick, strictly tailored but beautiful in a plum and navy colour palette. The exquisite feather trims and crystal details gleamed in the morning light.
Roksanda was polished and chic with those feather trims appearing again while Erdem showed a collection of delicate nostalgic florals, ruffles and a palpable sense of yearning - for the past, and for love lost.
Another designer that has become a member of the so-called New Establishment is Christopher Kane. With a front row that included Salma Hayek, the entire fashion world were in shock to see most of the looks styled with, wait for it, Crocs. The anti-fashion shoe got a luxe make-over with gobstopper minerals and crystals attached to them and divided the fashion world in the process. Would you wear them?
The big finale of Mega Monday was Burberry. At 7.30pm they unveiled their brand new operating model, which combined the men's and women's catwalk collections in one show that was all available to buy immediately.
As the fashion world speeds up, this see now, buy now concept is becoming an obvious answer to the problem of customers seeing clothes months before they are actually on sale. It's certainly not for every label - only super brands like Burberry with the resources and capital can take a risk like this - but it added an exciting angle to an already brilliant day. We can't believe the shows will be over on Tuesday!
Watch the Burberry show:
Front row stars at London Fashion Week
Less controversial than the crocs were the lurex and sheer dresses, slouchy knitwear held together with pins and arty embellishments.
A photo posted by Official Christopher Kane (@christopherkane) on
❗️❗️❗️THERE ARE CROCS ON THE CATWALK AT CHRISTOPHER KANE ❗️❗️❗️— Alex Fullerton (@Fullerton_fash) September 19, 2016
Pretty flamingoes and eye candy at Sophia Webster's Dolly Birds of Paradise show...
On a grey Monday morning in London, hair maestro Anthony Turner helped bring Erdem Moralioglu's shipwrecked vision to life with imperfect braids hung low at the nape of the neck and balanced with flyaway strands framing the face.
Anna Wintour heads backstage...
Decadence and comfort marry up at Roksanda through rich, earthy tones and tactile flowing fabrics.
A video posted by Roksanda (@roksandailincic) on
Backstage beauty notes from Sunday's shows, by Beauty Coordinator Giselle La Pompe-Moore
Dewy skin is here to stay
We’ve been strobing and non-touring our way into SS17, such is the desirable effect of healthy-looking dewy skin. Let’s face it, we all want that effortless radiant glow without any physical exertion or overheating. Today at London Fashion Week it manifested in a few different ways.
First stop was Preen where Val Garland focused on achieving gorgeous skin to act as the perfect base for the flower tattoos. Mary Katrantzou followed suit with Lynsey Alexander opting for glossy skin aided by the beloved MAC Strobe Cream. Up next was David Koma with NARS UK Make-up Ambassador Andrew Gallimore who created a flawless sun-kissed look with NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser and the new for Spring 17, Soft Matte Complete Concealer. Speaking of concealer, I can’t wait to get my hands on this after a quick swatch backstage revealed it had amazing coverage that’s not dry or heavy.
It’s all in the accents
With fresh dewy skin providing the base for most of the looks today, the detail came via the accents that were worn on top.
- Preen’s flower tattoos were delicately adhered to the skin with DUO Adhesive, also known as the wonder glue that can do no wrong.
- At Mary Katrantzou, the matte lips came in orange, pink and red hues, all lined with a red lipliner for continuity among the three shades.
- There was no mistaking the look of new wave glamour with the glossy reddish brown lids at Topshop Unique.
The models were dressed as fruit...
Or they were carrying it...
More rainbow-bright nostalgia at Temperley London, where the label's signature prints and floaty dresses took on a lighter, glitzier feel - a '70s-inspired beach party for ultra-glamorous VIPs.
The label embraced the shop the runway trend through app Vero. The three spring/summer '17 outfits available to buy are:
- printed dress - £895
- embellished jumpsuit - £1,695
- embroidered top - £695
On the Temperley London frow...
"Classic, but unclassic," says Mulberry's creative director Johnny Coca. "There's always a reference to British heritage, but it's about how we can use tradition, to make it feel modern. How we can break the rules, to make it new."
Fitting, then, that the famous bag maker showed its ready to wear collection at the Printworks - the first time the iconic former printing factory has been used to host a fashion show. A muted, wintery palette let the "unclassic" elements shine, with statement ruffles and preppy stripes dominant themes in the collection.
Back to school bags...
A video posted by Mulberry (@mulberryengland) on
Serious holiday vibes at Peter Pilotto:
A video posted by PETER PILOTTO (@peterpilotto) on
New wave glamour with a nod to the '80s at Topshop Unique.
On make-up, Hannah Murphy custom blended sultry eyes, a hint of plum blush on the cheeks and finished with a dab of mink on the lips.
A splendid kaleidoscope of '60s prints with hints of ancient Greece at Mary Katrantzou.
Our kind of armour...
Beauty notes from Mary Katrantzou, by Beauty Coordinator Giselle La Pompe-Moore
I’ve always had a thing for Ancient Greece, especially the beauty regimes. The women used all manners of soap, pomades and olive oil mixes to achieve a golden shine to their long, wavy hair. So it’s no surprise that at Mary Katrantzou these influences came through in a collection with an Ancient Greek aesthetic.
Indira Schauwecker for Toni & Guy loosely wrapped the hair around the barrel of a curling tong to achieve the glossy waves. Label M’s Therapy Oil was used to separate the curls and give the ends a glossy, wet look. This all made for an envy-inducing mane of soft and loose Grecian waves.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
A video posted by @stylistbeautydesk on
A space-age finale at Anya Hindmarch, a show all about art and geometry and those delicious macaroon-esque pastel colours.
A video posted by Stylist Magazine (@stylistmagazine) on
LFW day two, by Fashion Director Alexandra Fullerton
When you spend your teenage years wandering round the shops on the weekend, Saturday at the shows is the dream. Watching fashion shows, all day, then dinner, drinks and fashion chat into the small hours is the ideal. We might all be missing our families at the weekend but there isn't a better way to spend it if you're into clothes and shoes and bags and jewellery.
After an exciting first day, Saturday at London Fashion Week kicked off with Fashion East - a show which presents three newcomers in a row. This time round Matty Bovan (the recent Central St Martins graduate and favourite of super stylist Katie Grand) opened proceedings with a rainbow neon, mesh and crystal collection accessorised with clay earrings made by his mum, Plum. The raw energy was what London fashion week should be all about - remember his name.
@_lulukennedy's @fashion_east has long been *the* place to spot up-and-coming fashion talent at London Fashion Week. Today's show didn't disappoint, opening with newcomer Matty Bovan's gloriously bright collection of sculptural fluoro knitwear 💖 #lfw #london #fashion #runway
A video posted by Stylist Magazine (@stylistmagazine) on
Henry Holland was celebrating his tenth year and did so with a collection of gingham ruffles, sections of floral silk spliced together and a finale of his signature slogan t-shirt "I'd pay a million for a night with Ashley Williams" being one of the tamer versions.
Backstage, Toni & Guy’s International Artistic Director told me that he wanted to channel the lived-in aesthetic of a traveller. That meant lots and lots (and lots) of sea salt spray roughly dried and tied in a loose ponytail at the nape of the neck. Dreamy.
Late afternoon, Simone Rocha showed in the divine space of Southwark Cathedral. There was dreamy chiffon, rich embroidery covered in plastic, and a palette of white, black and red but the styling - coats worn off the shoulder and tied round the back - were a styling tip to take away for spring.
The shows ended with Versus Versace. Bella Hadid opened the show while big sister Gigi and her boyfriend Zayn Malik watched from the front row. The clothes were tough, khaki and black leather, with a uniform twist - epaulettes and caps looked cool.
A photo posted by versus_versace (@versus_versace) on
A photo posted by versus_versace (@versus_versace) on
After dark we headed over to members club 5 Hertford Street, along with a huge contingent of international press, to celebrate the opening of Red Valentino's Sloane Street store before toppling into bed. Day two, done.
Backstage beauty, by Beauty Writer Shannon Peter
The new nail trend emerging from Fashion Week: Nail jewellery.
Forget the classic pillar box red. Ditch that glossy black polish. Nudes? No thanks. There's a new class of manicure emerging from the SS17 shows and I'm not sure I want to wait until next year to try out... Nail jewellery. Nails flecked with gold, foiled with silver, lined with glitter.
The inner magpie in me wants it all. Its a trend that first appeared in New York at the Rodarte show where Tracy Lee lined the models' cuticles with chunky gold glitter polish that offset a sophisticated beige mani.
At The Blonds, the models had the shiniest silver nails, you could almost see your reflection in them. Ideal for lipstick reapplication. Just me? At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the coolest nail artist in town, Madeleine Poole, was inspired by the silver zips and studs of the designer's collection, and so created this textured silver nail look by haphazardly swiping the nails with silver polish.
And today, at the House of Holland show in London, nail artists Sophy Robson patted flecks of gold leaf on the tips of the nails that twinkled under the bright light of the catwalk.
Hair denting: The new technique to perfect
Sorry if you've only just perfected the perfect tong curl, but there's a new hair technique to get to grips with that will give you the ultimate wavy texture - hair denting. It's a tip I picked up backstage at Emilia Wickstead, where Luke Hersheson wanted to create a texture much cooler than a perfect curl and so began 'denting' the hair.
Picking up 3-inch sections, he clamped a straightening iron halfway down the hair and bent it away from the head, before clamping lower down the hair and bending it towards the head. He continued this throughout the hair selecting random sections to clamp and bend. The result, a series of hair dents that create the look of soft, cool, skater-girl waves.
The secret to a perfect complexion? Moisture mapping?
Just one step into the backstage space at Emilia Wickstead, and the gaggle of beauty journalists with myself included were oohing and ahhing at just how radiant the models' skin looked. Now, this is a rare sight to behold considering these girls run from show to show, only to have a shed load of make-up thrown at their faces and then pulled off again. But at Emilia Wickstead, the girls simply looked like they had stepped straight out of the spa. You know, that post-facial glowy skin that just exudes health that just isn't easy to replicate at home. Until now.
Sisley's UK make-up ambassador Tania Grier let us in on her secret.
"Its moisture mapping." she said, "I'm applying different products to different 'zones' of the face to pick up highlights, to smooth or to mattify." And the best part? You don't need a scrap of make-up to achieve it.
- Start with a light moisturiser across the entire face but massage into cheeks to really get the product to sink in
- Then take a blurring product (a silicon-heavy primer like Smashbox's Photo Finish Primer would work well) and gently pat this down the bridge of the nose and across the chin to take down the shine in these areas
- The final step is to take a heavier cream or even a oil-based serum (Grier used Sisley's Double Tenseur for its lifting effect) and sweep this from the temples to the apple of the cheek - the perfect spot for faking that dewiness.
Backstage skin nourishers
Model of the moment Hailey Baldwin opened and closed the show, with Macdonald's models covered in a shimmering body oil and sporting untamed, wet-look hair to accompany the designer's famous mix of sexy cutaways and excellent craftmanship.
Mother of Pearl
A just-kissed beauty look for an 80s-inspired collection with plenty of denim, ruffles, drop waists and oversized slouch. Think a young Princess Diana on her days off.
Lol at Fashion Week - even the disposable coffee cups are designer
Mother of Pearl created this year's bespoke design for LFW sponsors Lavazza...
A photo posted by @stylistbeautydesk on
Little House on the Prairie meets swinging '60s at Shrimps.
Jester-like blocks of bright colours and a sporty feel at Sadie Williams. Playful accessories came in the shape of shoelace adornments, wrapped cord earrings and huge hair bows.
A strong beauty look was required for the collection - cue smudgy kohl eyes and black-tipped blue nails...
Pretty clown make-up at Ryan LO's glitzy rainbow-bright show, inspired by a mish-mash of themes ranging from anime pirates, Victoriana and the New Romantics.
Woodland nymph flower crowns topped of Bora Aksu's romantic spring/summer '17 collection - a bright and nostalgic homage the designer's picture-postcard upbringing on Turkey's Aegean coast.
What better way to change the pace from New York (and embrace the London rain) with a cosy "at-home" presentation by mac maestros Aquascutum.
Swedish School of Textiles
Summer coats take a voluminous turn....