Anya Hindmarch perked up jaded fashion editors with a breathtaking show that gave schoolgirl stickers a revamp.
Stylist's Executive Fashion Editor Kitty McGee and Shopping Editor Lucy Reber are reporting on the SS15 trends at London Fashion Week - keep track of their updates here.
Day 5 at LFW is all wrapped up - thanks Land Rover for our fabulous wheels for the shows! Next stop - Milan.
MARQUE' ALMEDIA: Frayed edge denim
We were all abuzz for the Marque' Almedia show. The fashion pack have adopted their frayed denim pieces with gusto, the collarless jacket and frayed edge dress being favourites. Still somewhat an insider's secret, this design duo have captured the attention of the industry.
The show opened with their trademark frayed edge denim. Updated for summer with extended turn ups and in black. Outsized crystals were also added for a glam luxe feel.
The collarless jacket was reworked on white denim and also in a sheeny iridescent black. The shift dress with frayed edges was also revamped with a sixties style half roll neck and chiffon trim.
Chiffon was added, in swathes in fact, asymmetric tops and ruffle dresses bought in a soft feel to the raw edged denim. Tailored leather was here also, in mini skirts and collarless jackets in vibrant hues.
The monochrome looks were what stood out and I have no doubt that editors will be investing once again.
SIMONE ROCHA: Feminine and cool
The surface feel of Simon Rocha's collection was pretty femininity, but the overriding vibe was one of definite cool. With a colour palette ranging from monochrome to red via pinks and nudes, Rocha took in a plethora of textures and finishes.
Marabou-trimmed dresses, trousers and shoes were shown alongside bold floral prints and sheer chiffon macs. Scalloped edges were also in evidence on everything from dresses, to jackets via bags.
A favourite for us was the intense white embroidery on white chiffon. A beautiful pairing. This accomplished show was to be expected from the winner of last year's British Fashion Award for Best Emerging womenswear designer. Quite an accolade, for a great talent.
ANYA HINDMARCH: Stickers for grown-ups
Anya Hindmarch shows are always surrounded by much hype and intrigue. And rightly so. Each season the designer offers up a visual feast for the jaded fashion press, not only with her designs, but with her breathtaking presentation.
This season was no exception, press were seated on wooden benches and asked politely to keep their feet tucked in. Entirely necessary it turned out as the entire set including the seating swivelled and moved as the show progressed.
White boiler suited models strode out, clutching the new season designs inspired by Hindmarch's school girl love of stickers. She had appropriated the way kids liberally apply stickers to personalise their pencil cases, Adding specially designed leather stickers to chic grown-up totes.
But this was just the beginning, the lights went off and out sprang skeleton-suited dancers doing an expertly choreographed jig around giant neon teacups that were whirling with the models inside. Such a visual feast it was almost hard to concentrate on the bags themselves. Queen Anya has done it again.
TOM FORD: High-octane glamour
Mr Ford's shows are always an opulent delight. We were greeted at the venue by handsome young men proffering flutes of champagne and plush dove grey seating.
As the opening chords of Addicted to Love by Florence and the Machine blasted, Ford's rock chicks marched out onto the glossy lacquered runway all sporting dishevelled locks and a smoky black eye.
The collection was high-octane sensuality, reminiscent of Ford's work from the late '90s. Slinky tuxes strode alongside cut-out mini dresses, brocade flares and revealing floor-skimming gowns.
These are clothes to make a statement in for a woman in control.
THOMAS TAIT: Intricate, avant guarde, wearable
The styling may have been avant guarde at Thomas Tait, with nude colour splashed tights and hybrid earring/necklaces, but there were clothes here that were wearable and desirable.
Outsized leather overcoats in neutral hues, with bright poppy linings fitted in with the leather tailoring theme we have been seeing across the board. Tunic style dresses in navy and grey, that despite their architectural shapes wouldn't look out of place in the boardroom. And elegantly pared-back sports-inspired parkas worn with slim silk trousers.
Alongside these, of course, came more experimental pieces. Deconstructed one-armed coats styled over asymmetric pleated skirts and patchwork square dresses and skirts seemingly coming apart at the seams.
A show of intricate cuts and unexpected twists.
CHRISTOPHER KANE: A tribute to Louise Wilson
Kane's show, set in the Tate Modern's incredible Turbine Hall, was dedicated to the memory of Professor Louise Wilson OBE, who died in May.
Knot patterns adorned dresses in blue, white and maroon, pleated chiffon gowns were worn with black ankle boots for a tough edge and necklines featured ice-cream cone shaped pleating.
ISSA: Flattering dresses
We were excited to see what Creative Director Blue Farrier had created for her second runway show for the brand.
She has evolved the prints the company is known for, turning them into something chicer and more blown out. Organic squiggles and a distorted horse print galloped across shift dresses and sheer panelled skirts.
The collection was comprised of 3D floral organza vests, city shorts, frilled cropped tops and side stripe trousers, all teamed with simple, strong block-heeled mules. Monochrome was key, but there was also a striking use of bold fuchsia and orange. Also in evidence were printed, flatteringly cut dresses - the sort of one-stop dressing on which the company has made its name. However, there was a lot more here looking fresh and of-the-moment.
BURBERRY: Birds and bees
With the glossiest front row yet - Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne sat together - Burberry unveiled its nature-themed collection in a forest-like setting, dotted with huge dragonflies that reflected prints used on the clothes.
A zesty colour palette of lemon, navy, maroon and teal dominated the outfits, many of which were worn with trainers (Cara wore a suit and trainers for the show). Cropped, waist-nipped denim jackets took centre stage until the finale when an army of brightly coloured trenches marched out. By Sorrel Kinder, Acting Fashion Director
ERDEM: Welcome to the jungle
Guests were transported to the jungle for the Erdem show at The Old Selfridges Hotel today. Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Clemency Poesy, Laura Bailey, Pixie Geldof and Yasmin Le Bon sat front row as Erdem took us on a journey to an enchanted forest. Beautiful lace and embroidered gowns with Victorian-esque colors and details joined tweed pieces, full jacquard and quilted skirts, chiffon gowns and feather-adorned separates, all matched with flat gladiator style sandals or brogues. It was the full-length gowns that were the real show-stoppers and there were plenty of those to choose from - embroidered, broderie anglaise or printed organza.
ROKSANDA: Chic, elegant and vibrant
This morning's directional Roksanda ss15 show was full of the designer's signature silhouettes; sharp boyish tailoring and oversized outerwear mixed with sculptural draping. The neon and pastel palette - accented with black and navy - felt really refreshing and new, while the brightly coloured prints and acetate embellishment was playful yet not overdone. Texture was a huge focus at shows again on day 4 of LFW, with Roksanda opting for embroidered silk organza midi skirts and tops, bubble-wrap jacquard and digitally printed high gloss viscose.
L-R: Helen McRory, Yasmin Le Bon and Roksanda Ilincic:
ANTONIO BERARDI: Embracing the female form
Berardi's SS15 collection was, in his own words, a "vision of opulence within turbulence'. With a focus on the female form - expressly the hourglass figure that he has long focused on, we saw chic day wear and epic eveningwear in equal proportion. Bright pinks and oranges sat alongside navy, khaki, white, soft blue and grey. Texture and volume were also key, with huge floral jacquards, sheer fabrics and crystal embellishment adorning many pieces.
Vivienne Westwood: She say yes
Viv, as usual, turned her show into a political statement, with this afternoon's collection lobbying heavily for Scottish independence. Girls wore blue 'Yes' badges on the lapels of Westwood's signature tailored jackets and caps. Many of her signature pieces were there, with pirate hats and romantic off-shoulder smock tops making an appearance, along with flattering wrap dresses with low necklines. By Sorrel Kinder, Acting Fashion Director
WATCH THE SHOW:
MARY KATRANTZOU: Out of this world
The fashion crowd flocked to Lambeth this evening for the Mary Katrantzou show. The girls walked on a catwalk of metallic stones mimicking the surface of a planet, the location - an old fire brigade workshop on Lambeth High Street.
The colour palette shifted through earth tones of nude, grey and olive to pretty pastel shades of coral, blue, green and lilac. Soft wool tailoring and panelled pleats accompanied ruptured, peekaboo tulle tops and babydoll dresses.
Incredible hand crafted embroidery, snakeskin patterned metallic lace with serpent motifs and custom jacquards filled an incredible collection that was well worth the schlep.
WATCH THE SHOW:
PAUL SMITH: Urban safari
Situated in the cavernous hall in The Grain Store, Kings Cross, Paul Smith's show opened to a hypnotic tribal beat. Fitting for his clothes, which seemed to be a chicly tailored take on urban safari. Satin khaki bombers marched alongside fringed shell tops and neutral hued stripes.
This was a lesson in crisp summer tailoring from the master himself. Pleated peplum hen shift dresses, sporty shell tops, single breasted blazers and city shorts.
A favourite look was a long line sleeveless shirt worn over a cream pleated midi skirt. It encapsulated the play on proportion we have been seeing through the shows perfectly.
Bravo Sir Paul, you've done it again.
TOPSHOP: Celeb scrum
The Topshop show was a scrum, with a celeb filled front row and snappers desperate to get a picture. Alexa Chung, Hailee Steinfeld, Abbey Clancy and Pixie Lott were all part of the group causing the furore.
The catwalk itself also had the top girls walking, with Cara opening and Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson and Sam Rollinson following up.
The clothes started sporty; colour block sweaters, mesh skirts and hooded jackets marched down the catwalk styled with chunky heeled shoes.
Then came the perfect party dresses, pleated, multi-tiered and with flashes of metallics. The finale continued this theme with gossamer light chiffon dresses on black, white and nude with a liberal sprinkling of sequins. Star dust for a starry show.
Cara Delevingne singing her heart out at the Topshop Unique finale:
PREEN: High-impact and energetic
The multi-coloured tube lights and '80s beats that opened Preen's show were a good indication of the vibrant, energised looks to come.
Stand-out looks in a high impact, dynamic collection included sports stripes meshed with floral print and tribal, fringed beading.
MARIOS SCHWAB: City chic
Marios Schwab's pared-back offering saw him play with proportion and form. A trench coat was severely cropped and came with matching skirt, a black jumpsuit boasted a bodice more like a sleeveless blazer and a crisp white shirt was turned into a dress with cut-outs on the shoulders.
Colours were muted, black, beige and white with flashes of green and red beading. These were clothes for the city, the teal tunic dress in particular would translate well to the office. A very chic office I grant you.
The floor skimming finale gowns with their diaphanous skirts and structured bodices were the perfect summing up of a multi-layered collection.
RICHARD NICOLL: Foils and metals
Richard Nicoll's holographic skirt and hooded jacket took the foil and metallic trends we saw in NYC to another level.
The full-length eveningwear looks were understated but slick and cool, especially the silk jumpsuit and the slip dresses with layered mesh.
MARGARET HOWELL: Socks and sandals
We saw another beautiful bout of mannish tailoring at Margaret Howell this morning.
Neat pleated midi skirts and dresses, crisp shirts and oversized shorts and trousers came in shades of navy, black, ecru and grey. Trend wise we saw more cropped tops as well as a navy lightweight hooded jacket and some all-white looks.
Flats aren't going anywhere for SS15 and according to Margaret Howell our flats ought to be sandals or brogues with socks too - black ones if possible.
SOPHIA WEBSTER: Shoes to save up for
A steel blimp proclaimed 'Art n Tings' as we entered the Jungle is Massive Sophia Webster presentation. The rave scene was set with lights out and glowing Fluro paint - the ideal backdrop to Websters punchy designs:
EMILIA WICKSTEAD: Simple cuts in special fabrics
With a front row boasting Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Leandra Medine, it's safe to say Emilia Wicksted is being watched by the cool kids on the block.
The show was held at Banking Hall, with the models descending from a stone staircase on to a beautifully tiled runway. And the clothes were a perfect fit for the elegant backdrop.
Stand out looks were the cape-backed mini dresses in lemon and silver and the languorous floor length dresses. All the Emilia trademarks were at the show - ladylike chic, full skirts and nipped in waists - but it also felt fresh, like she'd pushed things forward. Tailored jumpsuits and skirts split thigh high added an edge in to the mix. An accomplished and beautiful show.
WHISTLES: Good design, made accessible
The Whistles show in a brand new Kings Cross Venue bought much excitement among editors.
The show opened to a mix of old school R&B music with a blast of SBTRKT'S New Dorp New York - our favourite show tune from NYC - getting the crowd further enthused as the exquisite clothes began to emerge.
Simple shapes in mostly monochrome danced past us. Billowing black playsuits, a raffia trim skirt and top which felt so relevant for now, alongside bright white lazer cut separates.
Here are the beautiful, well designed and accessible clothes that we all want to buy this summer.
HUNTER: Bye, bye wellies, hello platforms
MARCUS LUPFER: Bejewlled jellies
SIBLING: Giant bow hats - like an army of Minnie Mouse models:
ORLA KEILY: '60s inspired show
FRIDAY 12 SEPTEMBER
FYODOR GOLAN: Techie
DAKS: Purple reigns
BORA AKSU: Sheer and sweet
JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA: Glamourama
FELDER FELDER: Back to the '60s
PAUL COSTELLOE: Back to the '50s
J J S LEE: Soft pastels, minimal elegance
EUDON CHOI: Amish feel
JOAO MELO COSTA: Texture and colour
Shrimps' furry heels:
Emerging designer Keiko Nishiyama's ornate tights at the Ones to Watch show: