Keep track of highlights from the Milan Fashion Week spring/summer '17 shows, frows, parties and backstage...
Dolce & Gabbana
"Tropico Italiano" was the theme at Dolce & Gabbana, where palm trees and white sands set the scene and street dancers emerged from the audience to takeover the catwalk.
The theatrical show was watched from the front row by a handpicked crowd of online influencers and upcoming stars with famous parents. Cameron Dallas, Luka Sabbat, Lucky Blue Smith and his sisters Starlie Cheyenne and Pyper America, and Daisy Clementine shared the coveted VIP spots with Jude Law's son Rafferty, Sly Stallone's daughter Sistine, Pamela Anderson's son Brandon Thomas Lee and Sofia Richie, daughter of the legendary Lionel.
On the runway, D&G showed their trademark elegant, feminine silhouettes in signature lace and bold, playful prints - this season's theme being traditional Italian food. Beautifully cut dresses were covered in pasta pieces and full pizzas - one dress was entirely dedicated to tinned tomatoes, which D&G managed to make far more attractive than it sounds. The more wearable foodie offerings came in the shape of black silk covered in vibrant cocktails or colourful gelato cones.
T-shirts were covered in prints of religious iconography or huge "counterfeit" D&G logos - a tongue-in-cheek response to the thousands of fake versions of the label's products on the streets.
Babydoll dresses had a fantastical fairytale feel and bright mesh was everywhere - as the backdrop of the catwalk, layered over pretty floral dresses and covering bags. The bandeau top trend was present, albeit over shirts. Ruffled one-shoulder camisoles in bright clashing prints were also worn over button-up shirts.
The one-big-earring is a big deal at Milan Fashion Week and nowhere more than at Stella Jean where huge shoulder-brushing tassels came in blue, gold and pink.
Sunday morning saw more oversized silhouettes, this time at Marni where dresses and coats were voluminous, earrings were mismatched and heels were thick blocks of colour:
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
The collection was inspired by island castaways, 19th century Romanticism and described as "perfect for the festival girl with a bohemian spirit." Cue plenty of raw-edged denim, flowing asymmetrical lace dresses worn with slouchy leather boots and a particularly eye-catching multicoloured metallic jacket.
And the belts were huge; wraparound trailing leather outlined with metal studs or sturdy rectangular buckles.
Rodolfo Paglialunga cleansed the palette with a pared back aesthetic that was all about the power shoulder. With a sculptural silhouette that nods to '80s power dressing, huge round shoulders came in Issey Miyake's Pleats Please style or with sloping pads reminiscent of medieval spaulder.
Spotted: Bella Hadid dashing between shows
In the silver zip top we never knew we needed, until now:
Our kind of bikini...
Yet more pink and another selection of straw hats, this time at Blumarine. "Rebellious romanticism" are the keywords of the collection, which is inspired by 1920s Mexico, as photographed by Tina Modotti.
Bringing back the beehive...
Mega models in Milan
by fashion director Alexandra Fullerton
While LFW is all about spotting new faces on the catwalk, Milan has brought back some of our favourite supermodels to add some womanly glamour to the shows.
At Versace last night (Friday), Edie Campbell opened the show and Gigi Hadid closed it with Carmen Kass, Irina Shayk, Adriana Lima, Jourdan Dunn, Caroline Trentini, Doutzen and the one and only Naomi Cambell walking the super long catwalk.
This morning saw the 50th anniversary show for Bottega Veneta. Designer Tomas Maier took a turn down the catwalk with all his team at the end of the show but not before we had seen Karen Elson, Malgosia Bela, Guinevere Van Seenus and Eva Herzigova walk.
However, the main model excitement was Lauren Hutton's turn on the catwalk, poised, elegant and beautiful as ever - the frow erupted into spontaneous applause. We're looking forward to seeing many more strong women on the catwalk to come.
"This collection is all about a woman’s freedom: freedom of movement, freedom of activity, freedom to fight for their ideas, freedom to be whomever you want to be." - Donatella Versace
Naomi Campbell, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk, Edie Campbell, Jourdan Dunn, Mariacarla Boscono, Doutzen Kroes and Carmen Kass were among the Supers on call for Versace's futuristic luxe sportswear.
Edie Campbell opening the show:
A Super cameo:
Naomi leads the charge:
The @versace_official catwalk was a steady stream of super-supermodels: yes, that's @iamnaomicampbell leading the charge. Can you spot @gigihadid and @bellahadid, Edie Campbell, @doutzen, @annev, Carmen Kass, @annaewers and @carolinetrentini? | 📸: @fullerton_fash | #mfw #milan #fashion #versace #runway
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Soundtrack to the shows
by fashion director Alexandra Fullerton
We've been treated to the most eclectic soundtrack to the shows in Milan, but the best.
Ranging from The Carpenters' Calling Occupants of Interplanetary Craft at Moschino's Valley of the Dolls themed show through to Bjork at Diesel Black Gold (where the hair matched the singer's signature mini buns.) There was a sing-along - almost - at Sportmax as Janet Jackson trilled When I Think of You but the finest match was Led Zeppelin and Etro's languid hippy prints.
Diesel Black Gold
Hints of safari at Tod's presentation with utilitarian pockets on leather macs, skirts and cotton shirts in shades of khaki green and safari beige - and flashes of animal print.
and our favourite new trainers
Dresses were sheer and flouncy, suits came in cheerful and clashing bold prints and the youthful vibe was cemented with Instagrammable metallic forehead tattoos.
A bohemian adventure at Etro, with sweeping maxis, rich, substantial embroidery and sumptuous printed silks in sunset shades.
After Emilio Pucci's megahats yesterday came these mini versions at Sportmax:
Cool metallics, chic florals and yet more feathers in a palette of blues and greys for the "Charmani" collection.
The show notes...
Detail: Giorgio Armani
Beauty look at Giorgio Armani:
Diesel Black Gold
Bjork's '90s double top knots were revived at Diesel's Black Gold show, where we saw grungey slip dresses in black, white and washed out shades of olive green and dusky pink, worn with rubber-soled gladiator boots.
Detail: Diesel Black Gold
Beauty look at Diesel Black Gold
"Jeremy Scott finds inspiration in the original game of cut and paste for girls of taste."
The models were dressed in cartoonish, drawn-on Marilyn Monroe-esque creations that came with cut-out tabs on sunglasses, shoes and dresses - with the backs of all the outfits left blank like their real-life paper inspirations.
As well as cut-out dolls, pills were a theme, with invitations coming in pill bottles prescribed by "Dr. Moschino" and clutch bags appearing as giant pill packs. It was a show Fashion director Alexandra Fullerton calls a "fashion fantasy."
Gigi Hadid was virtually unrecognisable in a short platinum blonde wig, worn with an underwear dress and huge cardboard hoop earrings.
View from the back...
Feathers were everywhere at Prada - trimming asymmetric skirts, mac cuffs, dress collars and sandals. Leather came in the form of retro jackets in muted '70s colour palettes and killer clutches.
Bright ripples, multicoloured crochet, tassel bags and those hats hit the runway at Emilio Pucci...
On the runway
Next summer's it-bag?
There was a very definite theme at Ports 1961...
Simple and bright nautical stripes were most attractive on deconstructed pyjama-style shirts and off-the shoulder dresses.
We're slightly confused by the crocheted bottle carrier...
Beauty look: slabs of neon at Ports 1961:
We gasped over crocs at Christopher Kane, wondered if we're brave enough for the stacked pastel clogs at Max Mara and now Fendi has thrown up a dizzying array of sock shoes...
Gigi Hadid - straight back on track after she was attacked outside Max Mara
Glitter lips at Fendi
Fendi skull studs:
On the front row at Fendi
Ellie Goulding has flown in for the shows...
Gigi Hadid is attacked outside the Max Mara show
She was targeted by a Ukranian TV presenter, who grabbed her from behind and hoisted her into the air as she struggled to get away - read more here.
Supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid walked in Max Mara's tropical-themed show, where fluffy jumpers emblazoned with bright animal motifs are set to be street-style hits, along with the colourful stacked clogs.
The beauty look was a playful complement to the tropical theme, with soft smudges of camouflage paints swept above the models' cheekbones.
Beauty look: colour blocking at Max Mara
On the frow at Max Mara:
Gigi Hadid x Max Mara event
A beige cashmere bodysuit and sequinned trench is probably only a look a supermodel can truly feel fabulous in, but Gigi Hadid is really touting the label's new Bo bag, which for us mere mortals is infinitely more wearable.
Snarling, don't-care models played up to Plein's "Alice in Ghettoland" theme - badass summer outfits with a backdrop of impossibly twee suburbia.
The bejewelled ghetto blaster was truly a sight to behold.
Glitter ghetto blaster:
Designer Peter Dundas said the spring/summer '17 collection is a "melange of inspirations and influences, times and places" but the Americas are a "key starting point."
He presented prints and fabrics of Navajo and Apache tribes with rhinestone rodeo suits and the unmistakeable Cavalli aesthetic of vibrant maximalism.
Detail: Roberto Cavalli
A celebration of "the women who come from hell, who are hell,” Puglisi went to town on this theme for his set - cages on the catwalk, religious icons, neon crucifixes and wafts of incense .
A photo posted by Fausto Puglisi (@faustopuglisi_pr) on
Then came the clothes. Despite the dark theme - and setting - the collection was bright and light, flecked with dark, edgy details. A pastel palette dress came with a peacock print, ruffled shoulders and thigh-high split, reflective metallic materials and light denim were trimmed with black leather and there were photo-friendly t-shirts and sweaters with distinctive crucifix and hearts logos.
Detail: Fausto Puglisi
"Passion and femininity" were the driving forces behind Alberta Ferretti's spring/summer '17 collection, which really began in the romantic setting of the grounds of the Rotonda della Besana as the designer took advantage of her daytime slot and favourable weather to get the models ready outside.
Inside, Bella Hadid opened the show in a mesmerising amethyst-coloured silk ruffled skirt that contrasted with a punctured leather corset-style bandeau top, wrapped with rope and finished with tassels. Sturdy belts were worn in pairs as accessories to light ruffle skirts and dresses and Ferretti's signature intricate embroidery was present but not overpowering.
The soft and strong look of the clothes was teamed with a subtle beauty look. Hair was centre-parted and slicked back into low buns, emphasising the models' subtle darkened brows, smoky eyes and a hint of contouring bronzer.
Detail: Alberta Ferretti
Kicks off Milan Fashion Week with pineapple, peacock feathers and lots of pink. The models walked down a pink striped carpet in a theatrical waft of smoke and to the sounds of Florence Welch reciting William Blake.
Alessandro Michele's geek chic appeared once again for spring/summer '17, with his signature maximalism ramped up with disco metallics, sharply cut tiered ruffles, autumnal florals and statement bows.
Guests included Dakota Johnson, Serena Williams, Anna Wintout, Lou Dillon and Soko,
On the catwalk...
Colour is the soul of fashion, if you change the colour of a dress, you change the dress. Colour and dimension transform it into an illusion.
- Alessandro Michele
“Color is the soul of fashion, if you change the color of a dress, you change the dress. Color and dimension transform it into an illusion,” #AlessandroMichele. Introducing the women’s #GucciSS17 collection by #AlessandroMichele, a sky blue tulle gown with yellow sequin embroidery. #GGLive See the show through link in bio.
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