Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

PFW Blog AW14: Nicolas Ghesquière's elegant debut for Louis Vuitton

hero.jpg
chanel-trolleyhero.jpg
stellahero.jpg.jpg
allesshero.jpg.jpg
kenzohero3.jpg
diorhero2.jpg
pughhero2.jpg
chanelhero.jpg
pfwblog2hero.jpg

Futuristically fabulous eyewear and low-key glittery eveningwear dresses and separates at Nicolas Ghesquière’s wildly anticipated first collection for Louis Vuitton.

Stylist's Executive Fashion Editor Kitty McGee and Shopping Editor Lucy Reber are reporting on the A/W 2014 trends at Paris Fashion Week - keep track of their updates here.

Louis Vuitton

Excited editors were sat on the edge of their (cushioned) front row seats in the dedicated space erected at the Cour Carree Louvre museum, waiting for Nicolas Ghesquière’s wildly anticipated first collection for Louis Vuitton. The show space may have been the same as last season but it was all change in every other way. Oversized shutters guarded the walls of the minimal and well lit show space. As the music commenced the blinds slowly opened showering the venue with natural light.

The show was elegant and modern, he showed '60s inspired looks with exceptional accessories; particularly the box bags with gold detailing and the deconstructed clutches. The eyewear was futuristically fabulous as were the relatively low-key glittery eveningwear dresses and separates. There was an equestrian vibe with jodhpur-style trousers in an array of finishes and curved heel, buckled boots that will no doubt cause waiting lists at LV stores all over the world. What a start to our Wednesday morning. KM

L-R: Nicolas Ghesquière’s show notes and Lisa Smosarski, Stylist's editor, outside the Cour Carree Louvre museum

TREND: QUILTING

Quilting is the perfect winter trend, so cosy, insulating and enduring - and we couldn't be more pleased that we don't have to invest in a standard puffa jacket to work this look next season. Puffa coats got a radical make over at Chloe while Raf Simons incorporated colour-pop quilting into beautifully cut dresses at Dior and Kenzo even made quilting on a suit look wearable. Over in the accessories department Kenzo's California bag got a quilted makeover, Maje Paris showed some puffed-up clutches and Clare Waight Keller at Chloe has created the boots of the season with some beautifully padded details. KM

CLUTCH CONTROL

Clutch control

Statement handbags are nothing new to the front row but this season they're making a witty, wordy statement - slogan bags are IN. You heard it here first.

The trend that we first saw at 3.1 Phillip Lim in New York was also a major focus for French fashion house Kenzo at their show in Paris on Monday while go-to Brit accessories girls Sophia Webster and Charlotte Olympia continue to own this trend too. KM

L-R: Sophia Webster, Kenzo, Charlotte Olympia, 3.1 Phillip Lim

CHANEL

Supermarket Sweep

Chanel's Shopping Centre invites had us hooked from the get go and Karl and his team did not disappoint creating a Chanel shopping centre inside the Grand Palais.

Walking into the high domed hall was like entering another 'Stepford wife' inspired world.

Chanel biscuits anyone?

Chanel produce was lined up on the shelves, with everything from eggs to hair mouse getting the double C treatment.

Stella Tennant loading her shopping basket with Chanel eggs and stock cubes

The models stalked out to a pulsating high energy beat, resplendent with multi-coloured My Little Pony-tails and wearing hi-vis trainers.

They walked a little and shopped a lot. Cara picked up a bottle of spirits and Stella Tenant was toting a Chanel chain shopping basket.

Forget Fortnum & Mason, there's a new, even more exclusive supermarket...

Knitted track suits, quilted puffa coats and skinny holographic pants all contributed to a fresh sporty vibe, while Chanel's traditional tweed skirt suits and overcoats were still very much in evidence, albeit styled with knee-high lace-up boxing boots and sleeves gloves for a tough edge.

'Second shelf on the right - next to the Chanel fabric softener'

Cara Delevingne looks determined to get what she came for in the 'Chanel Shopping Center'

We left in a delighted haze, walking out via the check out to pick up our mini Chanel carrier bags filled with the new season's make-up.

Bet hers doesn't have a wobbly wheel...

It will be Chanel sugar plums dancing in our heads tonight. LR

Cara does a lap with Karl Lagerfeld

The look:

CLOSE-UP: THE CHANEL 'FABRIC' PONYTAIL

Tuesday 4 March: What We're Wearing

Kitty: Raoul coat, Nicole Farhi roll neck jumper, Joseph trousers, Camilla Skovgaard heels

Lucy: Marni for H&M coat, Gap shirt, Denham trousers, Jimmy Choo shoes

EDDIE BORGO

Eddie Borgo's aw2014 collection whisked us from drizzling Paris to a sun filled riad courtyard in Morocco.

Eddie himself, charming in a sleek skinny tie and blazer, talked us through the collection. His inspiration started with the iconic interior designer Bill Willis who designed the homes of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge in Morocco and also the Majorelle blue so often seen in that region.

The collection had lost none of Eddie's usual rocky charm, but had an extra vibrancy and warmth with the addition not just of the vibrant Moroccan blue in places, but also a yellow to represent the sun and a deep red to represent life's blood in this culture.

A pair of delicate castanets particularly caught our eyes and were described as miniature tools to be used when your champagne glass has run dry. Fabulous.

MONDAY 3 MARCH: WHAT WE'RE WEARING

Lucy: H&M jumper, Helmut Lang top, Peter Pilotto for Target skirt, Jimmy Choo shoes

Kitty: Chloe shoes, Zara trousers, Topshop jumper

KENZO RESEE

Amazing fabrics, maximal embroidery and a delightful office space at the Kenzo resee this afternoon.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Monday morning got off to a rocking start as guests arrived at the gorgeous Stella show venue L'Opera. Stella herself works really closely with the DJ on her show soundtrack and it's always one of the best of the season; loud, explicit and exactly what you need to shake you out of that Monday morning slump.

The girls (especially Cara, Edie, Joan and Sam) looked gorgeous with chic ponytails and virtually no make-up as they walked in a whole spectrum of looks from fringed outerwear to cosy roll necks and oversized tie-die sill dresses. The feel-good factor reached new heights as Joan and Cara led the line-up and skipped through the finale followed by Stella and her entourage of little nippers. We love Stella McCartney's world. KM

Here she is...Cara Delevingne walking for Stella McCartney:

Rihanna and Stella McCartney have a moment backstage:

PRABAL GURUNG

Eastern Influence

We met with designer Prabal Gurung this morning, so that he could talk us through his aw2014 collection.

He was inspired by the traditional dress of Mustang. A district situated between Tibet and Nepal, which was closed to the outside world until 1997. Using the layering, draping and wrapping elements of their costume.

His painterly prints were inspired by his friend, Cecily Brown a British artist, after a visit to her studio.

These elements combined to make a beautiful and intriguing collection. We were particularly taken with the soft woollen wraps, which looked suitable inviting after a hectic fashion month. LR

Kitty and Prabal this morning

LUCY FOLK JEWELLERY

We were delighted to meet irreverent jeweller Lucy Folk today. We've long been fans of her taco friendship bracelets and now she's expanded her collection, bringing in pieces inspired by decadence - your best china, oysters and caviar. Also new for the UK market were more fine jewel pieces including delicate chain rings. We're sold.

ALESSANDRA RICH

Eveningwear label Alessandra Rich is fast becoming a name-to-know. Five years in and her label has an unmissable DNA, is stocked in every one of the major UK department stores (not to mention internationally and online) and is a red carpet favourite with cool Brit girls and international A-listers alike. A far cry from the big eveningwear brands, Alessandra's witty designs represent the fun side of fashion we all crave so much. We met the designer at the Four Seasons to check out her autumn/winter collection and we loved every piece, sadly though Alessandra's natty ankle socks aren't part of the new line. KM

Alessandra Rich 'Bad Reputation' Collection

CHLOE

The Chloe show is consistently one of our favourite Paris shows. Creative Director Clare Waight Kellar injects femininity into tomboyish silhouettes in the most covetable way. Our highlights from today's show include the quilted puffa coat, the oversized tops and outerwear, the slouchy shorts and culottes and the adorable shearling ankle booties which were too brilliant. We were also sat behind Haim who bopped away to the soundtrack while admiring the show looks. Dreamy. KM

TABITHA SIMMONS

Former Brit stylist Tabitha Simmons also showcased her versatile new season collection in a gorgeous space on Rue du Rivoli.

KENZO

It was a strong start for a Sunday morning with the Stylist team. Kenzo was the first show of the day and we were excited to see what the design duo had prepped for us this season.

Greeted by popcorn vendors to a sound track of 1950s Americana, our expectations were high.

Stylist's Lucy Reber grabs a popcorn cone ahead of the show and the models on the runway, right

David Lynch had worked with the pair on set design and music to striking effect.

However, the large melted face which dominated the metallic backed set, was a million miles from the beautiful clothes...

Exaggerated shaped ruled. Voluminous coats, nipped in waists and dirndl skirts all shone in vibrant shades of crimson and chartreuse. The pieces were also adorned with dynamic prints and intricate 3D embroidery.

The models looped round the set in what seemed like an intricately choreographed dance and the crowd loved it. Three cheers all round for design superstars Kenzo. LR

SUNDAY 2 MARCH: WHAT WE'RE WEARING

Lucy: Marni for H&M shirt, Bulgari pendant, AG jeans, Karen Millen shoes

Kitty: Sandro jacket, Whistles jumper, Joseph trousers, Camilla Skovgard shoes

What a glorious day in Paris

The Eiffel Tower always puts a smile on our faces but Place de la Concorde is our all time favourite place to drive through in Paris. KM

Getting a closer look...

At our favourite pieces from Victoria Beckham's mainline collection. Love the camera bag, pleated skirts and new eyewear collection. KM

Home from Home

Thrilled to have a showroom appointment with our lovely friends from Trace PR who welcomed us in with tea and shortbread. Much needed amidst a morning of appointments.

They were hosting a range of exciting design talent that we were eager to see.

Rejina Pyo

One huge favourite was the London-based Korean designer Rejina Pyo who was in town to introduce her collection to the Parisian market.

She look beyond chic in an oversized navy coat of her own design and a bright red lip. And her colour-blocked collection had us mentally shopping and almost starting to look forward to the change in seasons, especially bizarre when you think summer hasn't even begun.

Merchant Archive

Some other pieces that will be going straight to the top of our aw14 shopping lists were to be found at Merchant Archive.

Sophie Merchant, the founder and creative director, was on hand to talk us through the collection full of beautiful vintage shaped styles. All fabrics felts reassuringly expensive and come, as Sophie explained, predominantly from Britain or if not, then Europe.

This rich collection was inspired by the work and lifestyle of avant-garde Parisian cubist painter Marie Laurencin. And this season will see Merchant Archive as a stand alone store, with exciting times ahead. LR

SATURDAY 1 MARCH: WHAT WE'RE WEARING

Kitty: Maison Labiche for J.Crew t-shirt, J. Crew skirt, Chloe shoes

Lucy: Gap shirt, J.Crew skirt, Office boots, New Look earrings

Last night we went to Julia Restoin Roitfeld's Motilo dinner

We joined the serious fash pack at an intimate dinner hosted by Julia Restoin-Roitfeld (looking incredible in Alessandra Rich) for online shopping site Motilo. Around 80 of us tucked into king crab canapes and baked potato with caviar (yes, baked potato) at Caviar Kaspia restaurant on Place de la Madeleine, where guests included BFC CEO Caroline Rush, Mira Duma and Nicholas Kirkwood, amongst others. KM

The guests

Top L-R: Kendal Jenner, Alessandra Rich, Anna Machkevich, Carine Roitfeld. Bottom: Gala Gordon, Alma Jodorowsky, Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor and Jessica Draper

Top L-R: Sofia Barattieri, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Anna Machkevich, Arizona Muse, Farida Khelfa and Roksana Ilincic. Bottom: Leigh Lezark, Jonathan Saunders; Miroslava Duma and Charlotte Dellal

*PFW HIGHLIGHT SO FAR* - CHRISTIAN DIOR

Raf Simons' collection was brimming with impeccable tailoring, beautifully cut gowns, lace-up details and a handful of intricate beaded and sequinned looks - and best of all, a much more feminine silhouette than we're used to was in evidence on the catwalk. KM

The UV lights and upbeat music at the showmade for nightclub vibes:

INTRODUCING ALEXANDER LEWIS

Alexander Lewis has worked only on pre-collections...until now. The London-based designer has created a capsule collection in collaboration with French contemporary artist Marie Angeletti, entitled Artist Intervention. LR

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

Killer shoes, witty bags and that faux fur jacket at the 3.1 Phillip Lim re-see. KM

LONDON SHOWROOMS

Our first day in Paris started with a visit to the Brit designers at the London Show Rooms in the Le Marais. BFC Ambassador for emerging talent/US Vogue contributing editor Sarah Mower hosted an opening brunch and the mix of designers (Jackie JS Lee, Palmer Harding, Marques Almeida to name but a few) and both creative and commercial collections meant the event was the busiest it's been in years. Go Brits! KM

You can leave the sleeves off

A trend we are happy to see sticking around for aw14 is the versatile sleeveless coat. As seen in vivid yellow at Dior, shearling at Isabel Marant and faux fur at 3.1 Phillip Lim. The sleeveless coat not only elevates pretty much any look to 'effortless cool', but it's also a layering wonder. Wear over a silk shirt for mild weather and then over a cashmere knit and slimline blazer when things get cold. Functional fashion, we approve. LR

FRIDAY FEBRUARY 28: WHAT WE'RE WEARING

Kitty: Sandro leather jacket, J. Crew shirt and skirt and Jimmy Choo courts

Lucy: H&M coat, Warehouse dungarees, Karen Millen courts, Banana Republic top and Bulgari pendant

Gareth Pugh, Rochas, Dries van Noten and Vionnet all showed their Autumn/Winter collections on the runway...

GARETH PUGH

ROCHAS

DRIES VAN NOTEN

VIONNET

H&M

...while Joan Smalls and Saskia de Brauw walked for H&M as they showed their H&M Studio collection off-schedule in Paris for the third consecutive season to an audience packed full of A-list onlookers including Miranda Kerr, Jessica Alba, Solange and Jourdan Dunn.

Watch a snippet from the H&M show:

And despite a hectic day there were no sleep for editors as Marc Jacobs Beauty and Sephora celebrated the MJ Beauty campaign film launch at Hotel Particular and the Proenza Schouler boys Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez hosted an opening party for the Proenza Schouler exhibition at Le Bon Marche.

Proenza Schouler Goes Experimental for Le Bon Marche Party

(L) Liya Kebede with Jack McCollough. (R) Lazaro Hernandez and McCollough with Anna Wintour

Marc Jacobs Beauty Launch

Our favourite Paris store Colette also launched its famous fashion week windows in collaboration with Chanel – J’Adore!

Bringing you live updates with the iPhone 5c and EE – the network that gives you complete spending control when roaming abroad. Additional Images: Getty Images, Rex Features, press shots.

Keep checking back for more updates from Stylist's fashion team at Paris Fashion Week

Related

lfybags5hero.jpg

LFW Blog AW14: *Those* bags at Anya Hindmarch

dghero.jpg

MFW Blog AW14: Dolce & Gabbana goes back to the dark ages

awsusanpichero.jpg

NYFW Blog AW14: Adidas trackies at Marc Jacobs

More

Red alert: Shop the hottest new colour trend

Why it's all the rage

by Anna Pollitt
09 Mar 2017

Front row stars at Paris Fashion Week

Taking a seat for the final shows of the season

08 Mar 2017

Beauty trends we love from Paris Fashion Week

Tres chic beauty take-aways

08 Mar 2017

Paris Fashion Week blog

Highlights from the shows

07 Mar 2017

Paris Fashion Week street style

C'est chic

06 Mar 2017

Casting director exposes the inhumane side of Paris Fashion Week

Balenciaga has fired the “serial abusers” outed by James Scully.

by Moya Crockett
01 Mar 2017

Milan Fashion Week street style

Bright, bold and glamorous

28 Feb 2017

Milan Fashion Week blog

Highlights from the shows

27 Feb 2017

Front row stars at Milan Fashion Week

Here comes the glamour

26 Feb 2017

Hijabi model Halima Aden kicks off Milan Fashion Week

“Celebrating strong females”

by Anna Pollitt
23 Feb 2017