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London Fashion Week Blog: Day 5

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It's the final day of shows (if you don't count tomorrow's menswear schedule, that is). Our fashion team, Alexandra Fullerton and Morag Paterson, bring you the fifth installment of their LFW blog - read all their insider information below.

View Morag's London Fashion Week outfits here

Read Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 and Day 4 of Morag's blog here

11am - Marios Schwab

Slick, chic and polished. Marios Schwab showed a grown-up collection this morning at Somerset House. Echoing the love of leather evident in his spring show, autumn's designs moved on but still kept a tough aesthetic which Schwab has become known for. Sharp leather trousers, neat shift dresses and fluid details such as chiffon trains made up the best looks. A sage green jersey day dress with pearl trim should make its way into every wardrobe as a go-to workwear solution while the tomato red stiff satin and chiffon gown was red carpet ready. Polished perfection with an edge.

Noon - Aquascutum

This was Joanna Sykes' first collection for the heritage house and it combined daring modernity with classic Aquascutum pieces, like the pea coat and the trench.

Samantha Cameron sat in the front row to see a palette of rusty orange, cobalt, grey and tan. Bold block colours were mixed with constructivist prints while a play of textures - sheepskin and chiffon and nylon and wool gave the elegant shapes an edge.

The standout piece was a cleverly cut orange shift and a beautiful pair of navy suede and tan leather flat boots. It's the first time Aquascutum have shown accessories on the catwalk. My only question, what took them so long?

1pm - Morag reports on Christian Blanken

Continuing with his signature design style, Christian Blanken infused his collection with a tailored sporty vibe. Layering was key with sharp cut tailoring slung over beautiful silk clean line dresses. Sharp metallic leather was present with pannelled jersey infusing the collection with a more relaxed look. Shearlings added texture and enhanced otherwise sleek silhouettes. Rich tones of fuscia and deep blue added colour to the monochrome base palette.

1pm - Roksanda Ilincic

This is the label to go to if you are searching for dresses to impress. Ilincic's gowns and chic shifts make getting dressed easy. For autumn the collection was inspired by Russian artist Natalia Gonnacharova, who's palette of rust, russett and fallen leaf tones were Roksanda's starting point. Also influenced by the natural world, Ilincic's collection featured exotic feather plummage and golden pailettes as well as the chicest grey cashmere sweatshirt. The ruby red silk one shoulder gown at the end of the show looked Oscar-ready while the two-tone colour-blocked pencil dresses with pretty bow belts will be more than perfect for women who don't have a red carpet to walk anytime soon.

Top off this Seventies Parissiene look with a fedora and stone cashmere coat.

2pm - Meadham Kirchhoff

Possibly the shortest show on the LFW schedule, the front row at Meadham Kirchoff were greeted with Penhaligons goodie bags, flowers on their seats and what looked like two giant piles of rubbish in the middle of the catwalk. The 'rubbish' was actually mocked-up floral tributes with slogans like 'love is revenge' daubed onto signs hanging from wire railings. It was a hint of what was to come. Then the models came out. All of them. Boys and girls, all at once. They stomped into formation like an advancing army and then stepped out in super-fast time so we barely got to see the clothes.

Meadham Kirchhoff always work with oblique inspirations (which left editors searching for show notes that explain a collection's inspiration.) The feel of the show was a mismatched medley of peasant details - embroidery and smocking - but combined with the harsh robotic walk of the models, there was a strange Amish android mood. However the key trends (such as red, flat seventies hats and immigrant inspired layering) were acknowledged and beautifully executed. Look beyond the off kilter presentation and you'll simply find that this designer duo just take a less obvious route to showcase the seasonal trends but the results are no less valid.

3pm - Emilio de la Morena

With a red dress as the opening exit, Emilio de la Morena sealed tomato as the colour of autumn. The scarlet satin Charlotte Olympia shoes worn throughout the show echoed the sentiment although baby pink, black and creamy stone sat beautifully in the chic colour palette. With chiffon panels, delicate bands of ruffles and fishtail hems it was a sexy chic collection that moved on from de la Morena's architectual take on body con dressing. The silhouette was still tight but elongated to below the knee.

Double layer skirts, sheer panelled bloused and jackets with sleeves in different textures are all key for autumn and de la Morena made them look ultra-desirable.

Spotted: Olivia Palermo made a front row appearance.

3pm - Morag dashes to Body Amr

A collection that started off as skin tight bodycon, morphed into long sheer flowing silhouettes as the show drew to a close. The favourite look was an amazing mustard floor-skimming dress with a demure high cut neckline and drape detailing.

New talent at Fashion East

This is where London's newest talent emerges. Each season three designers are mentored and supported by Fashion East director Lulu Kennedy as they take their tentative first steps onto the catwalk. Gareth Pugh, Richard Nicoll and Jonathan Saunders are all previous alumni.

This season James Long, Eliot Atkinson and Simone Rocha were showing. Long was inspired by Joan Baez and Stevie Nicks and his collection had an ethereal feel. Cream sweater dresses, craftworked embroidery and macrame details felt folky and authentic while the tattered chiffon trains had grunge appeal. Previously a menswear designer, this is the first time Long has done womenswear.

Next, Atkinson's collection of Americana-influenced designs. A black pinafore over a high necked white shirt looked Amish-inspired while feather trims hinted at a native American feel. Sheepskin sleeves were totally on trend while dark silk tartans and the ultimate cream cable knit jumper should be added to your wish list for Autumn.

Simone Rocha was the last of the trio, showing with Fashion East for the second time. Stylist picked her as one to watch and her autumn collection was accomplished and grown-up. Mixing de-construction (split sleeves), sheer panels and this week's ubiquitous furry sleeve the girls all wore sculptural shoes with almost invisible perspex heels. The cable knits, wrapped in a veil of gauzy chiffon, were stand-out pieces.

5pm - Amanda Wakeley

Amanda Wakeley can always be trusted to turn out a slick, chic polished collection. Her clothes might not be the most avant garde on the London Fashion Week catwalks but they do sell, unlike some of other edgier designers who only produce a handful of their catwalk looks on a made to order basis. Wakeley's commercial angle is helping to earn £37billion (the amount the fashion industry contributes to the British economy) every year.

For Autumn the collection was relevant and wearable - a tricky feat to achieve. All the emerging Autumn trends were ticked with leather trimmed dresses, sculptural funnel neck coats and ivory wool playing a major part of the collection, while reveal / conceal chiffon panels were subtly sexy. Almost all the looks were double belted at the waist for a beautifully defined silhouette. The final exit - a black silk gown with peplum at the hips was scattered with sparkling black beads that looked like a starry sky on a clear night.

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