Our Fashion Director Alex Fullerton reports from Milan Fashion Week. From Paisley and peplums at Etro to Pucci and Versace's daring designs, read her reports for the Autumn/Winter 2012 shows here.
The third day of Milan Fashion Week started bright and early with Moschino. Having shown the Cheap and Chic line during London Fashion Week, to the delight of Alexa Chung, the mainline collection was full of slick military looks in black, white and red alongside girlish Sixties style princess coats and winsome feathered dresses in mustard and imperial purple.
Etro also showed today - the collection heavily used their house motif of paisley (Summer's key print) but added structure, defined peplum details and boning for a polished take on the season's new bohemianism.
A warehouse on the outskirts of Milan was the location for the Just Cavalli show. Guests walked over an exotic leopard print carpet to get to their seats and the models wore an eclectic mix of black and white optical prints, with bold flashes of patent, sheepskin and lurex. The final looks mixed wild leopard and ocelot print with high octane bronze and gold lurex.
Friday night finished with the Versace show. Black velvet bandeau dresses were decorated with Byzantine crosses, leather was studded with dark crystals and a pure white dress came with a intricate overlay of black Rob Ryan-style forest cutwork. Flashes of yellow and tomato orange lifted the somber palette but this collection nailed the dark mood of the season perfectly. To end, Donatella showed a passage of killer carpet gowns. Nude and white dresses, embellished with glinting fishnets of crystals and a modern take on the house's signature chainmail made the girls look like intergalactic warriors. A stellar show.
The cavernous Armani theatre kicked off Saturday's show schedule with Emporio Armani. Starting with a luscious grey velvet skirt suit, the collection majored on daywear with a twist. Devore, felted cutwork and polka dots made the collection - in shades of concrete, charcoal and navy with flashes of scarlet - playful and fun. A passage of quirky rainbow-dyed sheepskin jackets and glamourous multi-coloured sequin coats closed the show.
Sportmax continued the prevalence of wearable daywear with cool coats in rich cream, cosy polonecks and charcoal boyfriend coats. Day dresses were shift shaped with satin obi-style belts and sharp shoulder details while a group of looks combining navy and black proved that every fashion rule can be broken in style.
The show notes for Emilio Pucci promised "Exotic black... Sober but slashed... (And) a seductive game of contrasts." Creative director Peter Dundas Mixed black crepe with sheer chiffon, devore velvet came with a glittering crocodile pattern and tight patent pencil skirts were slashed to the thigh. There were prints, of course, in a swirling mix of teal shades that were reminiscent of pre-Raphaelite stained glass while the season's key shades of damson and khaki appeared in sharp androgynous coats and a pastel passage added a different dimension to the collection.