One of the world’s most romantic cities (see A Room With A View for proof), Florence is the perfect place to spend an autumnal weekend away, when the weather’s still warm and the tourist queues have diminished.
In a quiet square, 10 minutes from some of the city’s oldest sights – including the famous Ponte Vecchio – sits the newly opened St Regis hotel, a converted 15th-century palazzo by the banks of the Arno. Paying tribute to the original St Regis (born in Manhattan at the turn of the 20th century), it’s Italy’s take on Fifth Avenue chic.
Boasting a library stacked with glossy art books, a suite designed by Bottega Veneta, and a unique chandelier crafted by Murano glassmakers in each of its 100 guest rooms, I stayed in a ‘Medici’ room, hung with prints of old Florence. There are also ‘Florentine’ rooms featuring original frescoes, and ‘Renaissance’ rooms draped in reproduction fabrics.
Why it’s hot
Florence may not be Milan, but its mark on the fashion world is clear. It’s the hometown of Guccio Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo, who both have museums dedicated to their work. The Museo Ferragamo is a shoe-obsessive’s dream, featuring case upon case of the master cobbler’s creations, dating back to the Twenties. The new Museo Gucci showcases stylish luggage, gowns and even sportswear from the craftsman’s nine decades in the industry (designer flippers, anyone?). Even the sugar lumps in the cafe are shaped in the famous double-G logo…
After non-designer fare? From delicate sheets of handmade paper at Il Papiro (24 Piazza Duomo) to heavenly scented handcreams and colognes at perfumery Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (16 via della Scala), you just might go over your luggage weight allowance on the journey home. Art lovers must visit the Uffizi; if there are no tickets available, let your concierge pull a few strings to let you to witness Botticelli’s stunning Birth Of Venus. And don’t miss the iconic Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, the square of sculptures at Piazza della Signoria or the beautiful Boboli gardens across the river. Thankfully, the centre of Florence is compact and easy to walk around so you’re never far from an interesting landmark. Or, more importantly, a gelateria.
Eating and drinking
Tuscan food is some of the best in Italy – simple and hearty with strong flavours. Whether you choose a basic trattoria or fine dining haunt, ensure you accompany every meal with the region’s finest wines; Tuscan chianti classico is a world away from those supermarket bottles covered in straw. The hotel’s elegant, Michelin-starred Etichetta Pinchiorri restaurant, capped with an original 18th-century, stained glass roof, serves a heavenly porcini risotto, while another dinner in a restored 14th century palazzo (Alle Murate, via del Proconsolo) featured a signature dish of Bistecca alla Fiorentina: 600g of melt-in-the-mouth, perfectly seasoned steak (so huge I had to share it with a friend).
For post-dinner drinks, head to one of the main squares, such as Piazza San Firenze or Piazza Santo Spirito, to sip prosecco in one of the area’s lively bars. For a nightcap, the St Regis – like every outpost – has its own Bloody Mary recipe; with a shot of grappa.
Photo opportunity
To fully appreciate the vista of this classical, terracotta-toned city, go up the 414 steps of the Duomo bell tower. At 278 feet, it affords an amazing perspective on the cathedral’s dome. And if you have come coupled-up, there’s nothing more romantic than strolling along the Ponte Vecchio at sunset.
Room rates start from £290 per night (room only); 00800 325 78734; stregisflorence.com
