I’ll be completely honest; Marrakech was not what I was expecting.
What I imagined of this go-to destination for cool sunseekers was definitely the Disneyfied version – heady spice markets, hide and seek passageways with the incense wafting through and men on camels selling colourful lanterns. What I found was rawer than that, but was certainly an adventure.
We stayed at the Amanjena which, as the driver who picked us up from the airport told us (all airport transfers are free with the hotel and your car comes stocked with bottled water and fresh dates), has hosted everyone from the cast of Charlie Wilson’s War (Tom Hanks is lovely and talked to all of the drivers like friends) to Colonel Gaddafi’s sons (not so glowing a review). There’s a reason. A 20-minute drive from the medina, it’s an oasis of calm in the chaos of the city.
Although many Marrakech hotels are bold and contemporary, the Amanjena has stuck to the roots of Moroccan design. Think giant terracotta tiles, dusky pink walls, huge rugs and dark corners everywhere. There are no ‘bedrooms’ but instead 32 pavilions and maisons, which all feel like a little home from home (eight have their own swimming pools). Ours had its own courtyard which lights up at night with glowing lanterns where we drank wine, ate pistachios and played cards as the August heat continued to stifle.
At night we ate lamb tagine lakeside as we were serenaded with live traditional local music. At breakfast, pancakes with almond butter were served by the swimming pool. There’s also an on-site spa if you fancy a traditional hammam (steam bath).
Why it's hot
The climate certainly helps. Marrakech pretty much guarantees sunshine 12 months a year (even December to February is in the low 20s). It also has an abundance of new hotels popping up this year – the Four Seasons opened this summer, The Taj Palace Marrakech is set to open its doors early next year – which will no doubt breathe new life into the spot which first found fame in the Seventies when it was Mick Jagger and The Beatles’ summer playground.
You do have to have your wits about you in Marrakech however. My advice is to steer clear of the medina Jemaa el Fna’s main square. Yes, it’s a tourist spot but I found it intimidating with locals who don’t take no for an answer trying to sell you goods. If you do go then you must hire a guide to take you around. Try Laetitia Trouillet ; a tip from Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop, a personal shopper who will take you to the best spots the city has to offer.
Eating and drinking
We started at La Mamounia (designed by the team behind Paris’ Hotel Costes) where we drank dangerously strong mojitos in Le Winston Churchill bar (dark and moody) after a long stroll around the herb gardens and a cherry ice cream in the secret parlour. Then we headed to Bo Zin, an inside/outside bar and restaurant which feels more like an Ibizan lounge. The food isn’t amazing – if you don’t like couscous, apricots or nuts you’re in trouble – but the atmosphere is infectious. Another must-go is Le Fondouk in the medina. Admittedly, it’s touristy – you’re led to a roof garden restaurant by a man with a long beard and a fez hat – but you can look down on the chaos below while you relax in candlelight.
Photo Opportunity
The Marjorelle Gardens of course. Yves Saint Laurent made over this crumbling garden and museum in 1980 with splashes of cobalt blue, sunflower yellow and lots of personality – it’s beautiful. Don’t miss the new collection of Berber art in the main building.
A stay at Amanjena costs £350pp per night staying in a Pavilion (based on two people sharing, room only). For reservations visit amanresorts.com or call free on 0800-2255 2626
