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Simple meals made opulent


Eggs have a reputation of being easy to cook, versatile and cheap, but one London restaurant is challenging that stereotype with an ambitious 11-egg breakfast menu, while another eaterie in the Capital has given the humble bangers and mash a £75 makeover.

How do you like your Ostrich egg in the morning?

Looking for a new way to kick-start the day? A restaurant in the Capital has a breakfast dish containing 11 varieties of egg. The Lyttelton launched its protein-heavy £25 meal, devised by Executive Head Chef Brendan Fylde, in time for British Egg Week.

Above: The Lyttelton's eccentric egg dish. Left, cooking Ostrich egg and Quail's egg

The breakfast includes: Caviar, Quail, Bantam, Guinea Fowl, White Leghorn Hen, Burford Brown Hen, Old Cotswold Legbar Hen, White Duck, Turkey, Rhea and Ostrich. Served with toast, coffee, tea and juices, customers can choose two eggs to be cooked any way they like.

Fylde explains: "In terms of the taste and richness of the eggs, generally speaking the larger the egg the richer it is and it can stand up to heavier accompanying flavours. My personal favourite is a soft boiled Bantam Egg, served with some home made celery salt, simple yet egg-ceedingly good."

The world's most expensive bangers and mash

For diners looking to splash out £75 on one dish, sausage, mashed potato and gravy isn't usually the gastronomic delicacy that comes to mind. Until now.

London's L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon has given the pub classic a posh makeover, renaming it the rather less catchy ‘Ivre de généreux bordeaux, mousseline de pomme de terre avec truffe’.

Above: The re-styled 'deconstructed' bangers served on a bed of puréed Desiree potatoes

The meal is 839% more expensive than the usual B&M for several reasons. The pork comes from Iberico pigs fed on a diet of acorns, wild thyme, rosemary and mushrooms. The meat is then gently braised in 16 year old vintage Bordeaux and served with 10 grams of black truffle.

Chef Oliver Limousin, who created the dish in time for National Potato Week, said: “Having the opportunity to work with this quality of ingredients is a dream come true for any chef. And putting my own stamp on sausage and mash is a delight. You can only make our signature of mouselline de pommes de terre by selecting the right potato variety. Texture is key to results.”

The hazelnut gourmet hotdog

Using cured and smoked pork from a rare breed pig farmed only in Wales, the 'British Bulldog' is a hotdog designed to be drunk with Champagne.

The £4.50 British Bulldog, above, is served without an opulent price tag

Created by Searcys Champagne Bar at Paddington Station, the traditional hotdog bun is ditched in favour of fluffy brioche, while sweet German and classic American mustards are accompanied by a Welsh-produced beetroot and horseradish relish. The US-British hybrid dish is then topped off with a sprinkling of hazelnuts and tomato powder.

Arnaud Stevens, the chef behind the high-end hotdog said: “I created my own recipe of spices and seasoning, which I then agreed with James Swift [Charcutier traiteur producers] before it was added to the meat. It was important that the taste is light but well seasoned to intensify the flavour of a good sausage; I wanted a ‘crack’ when bitten into, but for it to also have a smooth finish similar to a New York-style hot dog, while retaining the British sausage feel.”

Words: Anna Pollitt. Pictures: The Lyttelton/L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon/Searcys Champagne Bar



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