Stylist's Deputy Beauty Editor Sam is blogging backstage from New York Fashion Week. Check back daily to read her updates from the Spring/Summer 2013 shows.
Photos: Taken on HTC One S with instant image capture and Beats Audio™
Thursday 13 September
5 days. 26 shows. 22 hours sleep. 1,273 coffees (nearly)
Goodbye NYC, you have been inspirational.
Next stop, London Fashion Week.
See you there
Wednesday 12 September
NYC is in the midst of a Free moment. Or so it would seem backstage where everyone from PRs to hairstylists to photographers were sporting Charlotte Free-inspired shocking pink tips. Oscar de la Renta must have caught the bug too - I spotted his models sporting pink streaks too.
For a non-committal approach those in the know have recommended Colour Mania solid hair powder in Pink Flamingo. Just rub it straight onto hair and wash it out when you're done. Ridiculously easy. You can buy it in the UK from Urban Outfitters (£5.99).
Trend: Sun-kissed Skin
Spotted backstage at Nanette Lepore, courtesy of Bumble and Bumble. Cute.
Sunkissed Cali girls at Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti...
...and at Rachel Zoe.
Charlotte Tilbury's kit: Everything you need for Spring's burnished bronze look. Maybelline New York's Bouncy Blush doesn't launch until next year but I stocked up at Duane Reade. If you're after the most incredible, bendable, healthy-looking blush and happen to be heading stateside I suggest you do the same.
Show report: Michael Kors
It was a case of runaway makeup over at Michael Kors as liner flew up, up and away. Dick Page used green or blue face paint depending on the models colouring and expertly painted a thin line above the crease of the eye.
Look who we ran into backstage - our cover girl Joan Smalls! And she has a little video message for us...
Happy Birthday to me, New York style...
Literally walked straight into CZJ and Michael Douglas outside the tents. Much to the annoyance of the paparazzi
Show Report: Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
HELLO Mac Strobe Liquid in Bronze. Used backstage at Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti to give skin a 70s Californian glow.It launches next year. I CAN'T WAIT.
Nudes, nudes, nudes.
More nudes backstage at Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti.
How cool is Kavita's monogrammed Hermes cup holder?
PS She's also the Global PR Manager for Essie hence the great nails
Tuesday 11 September
Stylist meets Charlotte Free (and Freja Beha Erichsen)
Look who I bumped into on my way to interview Freja Beha Erichsen this evening. Little Miss Charlotte Free....
Sadly I can't reveal any more (just yet) so I'll leave you with this note Freja wrote I'm my notebook when I went to get a drink.
Goodnight from New York xxx
Stylist meets Essie
Ok, I have to admit I was planning on trying out the New York Nude (Nail) today but despite my best intentions to try the trends as they happen, I was swayed. I think you'll understand though, it's not everyday Essie (yes, THE nail polish maestro Essie herself) hand-picks you a nail polish. She took one look at me and picked out School of Hard Rocks. What do you think?
I did manage to get her thoughts on the nude nail while I was there though...
What's your take on nude nails Essie?
I have 48 nudes in my collection, nude nails are timeless.
Is there such a thing as the perfect nude nail polish?
Yes and its called Mademoiselle. It's a universally flattering nude - it isn't too blue or too yellow or too grey, its just perfect. It took some time to perfect it but it was worth it. its the one polish everyone should have. If you're really blonde though Sugar Daddy looks amazing.
Apart from nudes what is your favourite polish?
Reds are eternally classic too. A List is very flattering. It's perfect for a job interview - it says the wearer is strong and confident.
Is that your best seller?
Actually no, and it's not a nude, either. Bikini So Teeny (a pale blue with tiny gold shimmers) is number one worldwide at the moment.
The essie Flagship Salon at Samuel Shriqui 35 East 65th Street, New York - 212.472.6805
Show report: Vera Wang
Paul Hanlon whipped the hair up into something resembling an ice cream sundae.
Show report: Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham's SS13 collection looks straight out of the rat pack era. Sticking to the nude nail trend manicurists created Vegas-inspired nails.
1. Essie Waltz on the base of the nail
2. Essie Marshmallow on the tip
3. A top coat of Essie Luxe Effects Pure Pearlfection (coming to the UK next year) to finish
Straight hair is back
Its time to dust off your straighteners. At Rodarte, Odille Gilbert was busy straightening hair and pulling it into a deep side parting, flattening with Kerastase Ultimate Elixir to create a modern, sleek style. She called it the faux- undercut.
Thirty minutes later we spied Guido creating something similar backstage at Diesel. Referencing a 90s Helmut Lang masculine aesthetic he brought the straightners out parting deeply on the side. He wanted hair to look squeaky clean, almost glass-like, finished with Redken Shine Flash Hairspray.
The view from backstage at Diesel
Show report: Badgley Mischka
At 8:30 am Peter Gray was busy turning tired models into sexy woodland nymphs. Think an up-to-date Midsummer Night's Dream if it starred Chloe Sevigny.
Prepping hair with Morroconoil Volumising Mousse he rough-dried hair, lifting at the roots and brushing into a side parting. Once dried he took a crimper to it before brushing it out to create a softness, then took vertical pieces and bent them into a U shape pinned with artificial flowers. He finished with a spritz of Morroconoil Luminous Hairspray before the models hit the catwalk so hair would softly glisten under the lights.
Tip: Section the back of the hair into two sections, and taking a piece from the inner hair create a tiny horizontal braid from the top of ear across the head. This creates an invisible shelf to pin the hair onto, meaning you can create loose unstructured styles safe in the knowledge the hidden shelf will hold it in place.
Wasting police time....
Two minutes with Erin O'Connor
Where did you wake up this morning?
At my place. I just moved here! It was early.though something like 6am.
What's going to get you through today?
Bananas, vitamins and plasters. It's my first NYFW in 6 years and my feet show how unused to it I am, but that's the reality of being a model.
What's in your bag? Melodie Montrose
"This is my favourite bag. It's Balmain and I use it whether day or night. Inside I have my wallet, taxi card, cigarettes, gum, sunglasses and iPhone charger."
"I got up at 6am this morning but it was OK because I just stayed in last night, watched TV in my pyjamas. I missed a good party but I'm no good at making myself leave the house when I'm tired."
Who says models don't eat?
How cool is this hairstylist's tattoo?
Good morning! It's 6:30 am and I'm off to my first show. Catch you later!
Rocking an orange lip this morning...
Monday 10 September
Show report: Marc Jacobs
Chatting to Francois Nars isn't something that happens very often hence the scrum backstage at Marc Jacobs to get some time with him.
He explained the thinking behind this look was Edie Sedgwick updated for 2012-pale skin, nudes out lips keeping the focus on the eyes with a strong, elongated brow and shadow on the crease.
Very modern. Very New York. Very Marc.
Want to know what the FROW got in their goodie bags?
Show report: 3.1 Phillip Lim
Think a teenage Courtney Love if she existed in 2012. She's been performing in the midday heat at Coachella. She jumps off stage to join her friends, skin a little bit sun burnt, makeup a little bit worn in. You'll need a liberal dose of Nars Laguna Bronzer and 10 (10!) coats of mascara for this one . Cute.
It's a trend: Naked nails
So my plan for any downtime in NYC was to find out the coolest nail bar and treat myself to a bit of nail art. How happy am I that I haven't had any time to make an appointment? Very.
There hasn't been ANY colour on nails at any of the shows AT ALL. Marian Newman is putting it down to "a backlash against the nail art trend. It's much more simple, elegant and chic to have perfectly groomed nude nails." Meanwhile Dawn Sterling, Essie manicurist called the nude nail "a lesson in instant elegance. It's the finishing touch to any outfit."
Not convinced enough to put those nail art pens down? We've matched the show with the nude. Which camp are you?
Alexander Wang - Sally Hansen in Dune
Tibi - Colour FX in Pale Pink
Derek Lam - Estee Lauder in So Vain
DKNY - Essie in Fed Up
Thakoon - Essie in Allure
Ralph Rucci - Essie in Mademoiselle
Carolina Herrera - Essie in Adorable
Donna Karan - Mac in Quiet Time and Cream Delicate
3.1 Philip Lim - Essie in Broach The Subject
Believe me now?
Check out Marian Newmans video here to find out how to paint the perfect nude nail. Trust me, this lady gives good tips!
Show Report: Donna Karan
I can't tell you how excited I got backstage at Donna Karan.
Model Karlie Kloss and hair stylist Eugene Soulieman and some BRIGHT colour.
As Eugene and Karlie chatted about their summer holidays he worked her hair up into a modern updo. Prepping the roots with Wella Ocean Spritz he blasted the hair until dry then pulled it up into a high pony.
Instead of securing it he split it into two and laced the two parts into each other (imagine the first step of tying your laces) and secured both upper and lower ends with grips before folding back on themselves and pinning in place. Some hairspray and a little rub of the temples to undo it and little and he was done.
Here's Karlie having a little chat with us backstage - she wrote us a note too.
Over on makeup Charlotte Tilburg was creating sunrise inspired eyes, replacing the usual romantic notions with a contemporary twist. Starting by bleaching the brows to create a blank canvas and paling down the skin, she created a power lid using MAC magenta lip pencil to draw a graphic, squared off line around the eye and a matching MAC Pro Chroma Cake applied with a brush on lashes.
Marian Newman meanwhile was busy creating a nude nail by layering two Mac shades - Quiet Time and Cream Delicate. Check back later for her essential nail tips...
Show Report: Carolina Herrera
Early mornings all round backstage at Carolina Herrera where everyone was feeling tired especially Jourdan Dunn who told us she'd only made it home from the clubs a few hours ago.
Orlando Pitas' modern, wearable hair is so easy to do he promises even I could manage it. After blowdrying hair straight, lift the top section and instead of securing with a barette, drench in Morroconoil Luminous hairspray to keep it in place.
Beautifully modelled here by Cara Delevingne, below
Next door, Diane Kendall taught us how to do an edgy smokey eye in four simple steps...
1. Define the eyeshape with a creamy grey pencil
2. Blend Mac eyeliners in Utility and Phone Number over the lid
3. Smudge Must Have Brown cream eyeshadow ( launching spring 2013) over the lid
4. Diffuse from lid up to brow with Coquette, a grey powder shadow.
Show Report: The Row
I wouldn't get up at 5:30am for just anyone. After yesterday's early morning wake-up call for Victoria Beckham, I found myself once again waking up with the sunrise to head to The Row. Whilst I didn't spot an Olsen, the dark circles were worth it as Tom Pecheux created the most beautiful look all season.
Picture Credit: Getty Images
Tom first met MK and Ashley about eight years ago when he did their make-up for a photoshoot and can happily vouch for the fact that despite the millions, they're easy to work with and fully involved in every step. Including makeup.
Citing the inspiration as an English country garden, he kept the complexion nude and glowing by patting in foundation where it was needed to cover any imperfections, finished with a dusting of rosy blush on the cheeks. A pale buttercup yellow was washed around the eyes and lips nuded out out with concealer and a dot of pink lipstick on the centre. Rosebud inspired lips. How pretty.
How many models can you fit in front of a mirror?
Hello Jourdan, Abbey, Joan, above.
Show Report: Zac Posen
Elongated almond eyes, a homage to the Sixties, were created by using a soft grey cream shadow, encircling it with a taupe liner and applying false lashes.
A finely drawn triangle at the outer corner of the eyes (an old Greta Garbo trick) finished off this dreamy look that flattered each and every girl.
Show Report: Ralph Rucci
Hurrah for Tom Pecheux and the first pop of colour for SS13.
Tom updated the smokey eye by dipping a cotton bud in eyemakeup remover and erasing the shadow from the lower lash line before filling it back in with Mac Electric Pink lip colour (out next year).
Watch Tom talk me through how to get a perfect dewy base in the video below...
If I have one thing in common with supermodel Jourdan Dunn, it's my love of food.
Here's my fave backstage snack stops in New York so far...
Cheese plate - Ralph Rucci
Burgers - Thakoon
Vita Coco - Alexander Wang
Wraps - Tibi
I was lucky enough to catch-up with legendary British hairstylist Eugene Souleiman - watch him talk me through this season's must-have hair products in the video below...
Sunday 9 September
Show report: DKNY
Over at DKNY Maybelline New York makeup artist Charlotte Willer created a dewy, sporty look inspired by New York girls who bounce from work to gym to bar.
Charlotte used Maybelline Dream Fresh BB and Dream Lumi Concealer to create a radiant glow, Babylips on the eyes for a non-sticky sheen finished off with three coats of mascara.
Show report: Derek Lam
Next up - Derek Lam, where Tom Pecheux created aquatic eyes by blending two Estee Lauder cream shadows, Steel and Extreme Emerald, pressing the shadow onto the lid with a brush to create a sheer wash.
What was your inspiration for this look?
I wanted to recreate.the idea of sunrise over a lake. It's luxurious but not too try-hard. All the usual elements are there but its all a bit transparent.
That seems to be the makeup vibe in New York this season...
Definately. Fashion is a twisted world - for AW everything was dark and vamp like. From that extreme there was only one choice, to replace it with this kind of delicate softness.
Who gets it right, in your eyes?
Jessica Chastain. I love her subtle powerful attitude. That's what SS13 is about.
Show report: DVF
James Kaliardos was rocking some kind of futuristic head piece backstage at DVF. Turns out its a Glass by Google, given to him by Diane to film everything as he sees it. Glass by Google records everything he sees, a James eye view so to speak. Very clever.
Blending India and Seventies Italy together, he came up with a smoky take on the graphic eye with a cappuccino powder underneath the eye framed with glossy lashes. A smudge of brown shadow under the eye and lashes added to corners, topped off with layers of black mascara. Add a slight reddish brown hint to the cheeks (Teapetal cream blush, Mac) and you're good to go.
Show report: Thakoon
Diane Kendall created Thirties-inspired brows using Nars' Jodhpur eyebrow pencil.
Meanwhile hair was kept sleek at the roots and - using a three-barrel tong - stylist's made waves through the midlengths and ends
It's time for a coffee break, New York-style...
6:00pm: Two minutes with Joan Smalls
What couldn't you make it through the season without?
My iPod. Seriously it keeps me sane. At the moment I can't stop listening to Azealia Banks
Whats your favourite part of the season?
Getting to Paris always reminds me of the start of my career. That's where it all began with Riccardo Tisci.
You're on the cover of Stylist...
Oh my god I'm so excited....
3:00pm: Guido is a hair god. Much like Madonna or Britney he only goes by one name. He also happens to be one of the nicest people you will come across backstage. We had a quick chat between the blowdryers...
You're looking very tanned....
I know I've just got back from holiday in Ibiza. By the time I get to Paris it'll be a different story!
What time were you here this morning?
I got here at 6am but I didn't get in from the Marc Jacobs test until midnight. I'm running on Touche Eclat, eye drops and coffee!
What is the most essential item in your kit?
A good hairdryer. The Babyliss Volare V1 is the Ferrari of dryers. It heats up ridiculously fast. And Redken Powder Refresh is a fave product at the moment its a dry shampoo that gives the hair that perfect undone texture.
Any insider tips for Stylist readers?
Think about what look you want to create before you start and use the correct products to get there. Hair products are like makeup, use them to add shine or create a matte effect. Think of them as your highlighter or powder.
Show Report: Victoria Beckham
VB was heavily involved in creating the hair and makeup look for her show, vetoing three looks makeup artist Diane Kendall tried last night (a bold brow and orange lip were two of them) instead settling for a very simple, easy style that looks effortlessly beautiful.
Diane sculpted cheeks with two Maybelline New York blushes (Coffee Cake across the cheek and a dusky pink swept from the apple up to the temples) and a slick of Studio Master Precise liner in black.
Meanwhile on hair, Guido stayed true to his word working the hair into an easy to do dual-textured look with a simple, clean centre part and putting a bend in the hair with Babyliss curling irons before spritzing Redken Powder Refresh on the ends for a fluffy powdery finish.
P.S: Stalker alert; check her out!!
12:00pm - The location for Victoria Beckham. How SATC! Rumour has it Diptyque may be scenting the.show.
8.00am: It's muggy in New York and I have seven shows today (eek) so I need makeup that lasts. Today I'm wearing Bare Minerals foundation, Bobbi Brown concealer, Maybelline New York Mega Plush Volume Express, Smashbox highlighting wand and Maybelline New York master smoky-eye pencil. I'll be finishing off with a red lip - but that's after breakfast!
Saturday 8 September
Two minutes with Jourdan Dunn
The hottest models of the moment were walking for Wang including Magdelena Frackowiak and Shu Pei Qin, but it was the UK's finest, Miss Jourdan Dunn, I was most interested in chatting to. I found her at the catering table where she was (refreshingly) bemoaning the lack of comfort food....
What food would get you through the shows?
Proper comfort food. Fried chicken, rice, stir-fry. There's only so much salad you can eat. I should open my own catering company. I'd call it Dunn's Food.
How many shows have you done this season?
This is my third. I've already done Rag and Bone and Jason Wu.
What's the one thing you can't survive backstage without?
My iPod. I'm listening to Bow Wow right now.
What's the one beauty product that gets you through fashion month?
Sisley Black Rose face mask. And their express one too, I used that this morning. It works in three minutes.
How are you feeling right now?
Follow @missjourdandunn on Twitter for a refreshingly honest and hilarious view into a models world
It's a trend: Dual textures
At Rag and Bone Guido gave the hair a two-textured finish using a flat oval shaped curling wand (see pic below) by Sultra - launching in the UK soon.
At Alexander Wang hair was blown smooth using Redken Satinwear 02 Blowdry Lotion before using a curling wand on the ends to create waves. Guido was busy transforming models hair into futuristic minimalist ponytails. Key to updating an everyday style like the pony? A strip of masking tape down the centre. Diane Kendall created a modern sculptural look using two shades of Nars powder foundation.
Meanwhile at Tibi stylist Kevin Ryan created a dual texture by blowdrying a cocktail of Aveda Pure Abundance Style Prep and Volumising Tonic into the roots and top three inches of the hair only leaving the ends to 'do their own thing.'
Top Secret: Guido let me into a secret. The dual-textured trend may continue at Victoria Beckham tomorrow morning. Watch this space....
Spotted backstage, launching next year...
Bobbi Brown retouching powder
Redken Satinwear blowdry lotion
Sultra Squoval curling iron
Maybelline New York Babylips lip balm
Friday 7 September
We're en route to NYFW! I've my passport and beauty essentials...
and found some quality reading in the departure lounge:
Blue skies = good Fashion Week omen..
Our ride for the day:
The tent where all the action happens:
Thursday 6 September
Last night I popped into Wah nails at Topshop for a quick mani. What do you think? New York enough? Not bad for £20…
Wednesday 5 September
This is the only part of my desk not covered in spreadsheets.
I'm in scheduling hell trying to work out my route between shows so I've taken a breather in the beauty cupboard and pulled out some essential items that will be coming to NYC with me...
- Deborah Lipmann Stripper To Go nail polish remover pads: Each fingertip-shaped mitt is soaked with enough lavender-scented remover to eradicate nail polish from all 10 fingers . Genius.
- Stila Stay All Day Liquid Lipstick: Intensely pigmented. Non-drying. Easy to wear.
- Paul and Joe Blotting Paper: To banish sweaty looking shiny foreheads. I officially couldn’t function backstage without them.
- Lanolips Lovely Lanolin: Use as a lip balm, a cuticle oil, a dry skin softener - the list is endless. The main reason I love it is because it takes up minimal room in my bag.
- Clarins Beauty Flash Balm: My face just doesn’t function without this. End of.
- Aromatherapy Associates Support Essence: I'm relying on this to get me through four different times zones. Don't let me down.
Tuesday 4 September
Well, not quite....
On Saturday our Deputy Beauty Editor Sam will be jetting off to NYC and heading straight backstage ready to report back what will be hot for Spring/Summer 2013.
As our roving reporter she'll be grabbing interviews with designers, models and makeup artists as well as giving you some sneak peeks into new product launches.
Now take a look behind the scenes of LFW by clicking here…