Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation

Embrace Stockholm Syndrome


Stylist’s bookings editor Amelia Trevette discovers that Sweden’s capital is not a destination for must-see monuments, but a city to savour for its distinctive culture 

I have a long-standing love for all things Swedish. I binge-watched The Bridge and I frequent The Scandinavian Kitchen. I actually quite enjoy a trip to Ikea, and not just for the meatballs. Nothing pleases me more than a plate of pickled herring (don’t judge) and I adore the insouciant Scandi style. Despite all this, I’d never been to Sweden so a trip to the capital was long overdue. 

Read more: Never put work before life; from midnight swims to beach barbecues, your go-to guide to the Swedish way of living

We arrive late in the evening and head straight to At Six in the Brunkebergstorg district. In the 1800s this area was the hedonism hotspot, attracting all the city’s revellers for after-dark debauchery. It remained this way until the Sixties, when a city clean-up saw the square replaced with brutalist modernity. After a period of neglect the square is now the focus of regeneration and At Six is one of two shiny new adjacent hotels – Hobo is the second and slightly edgier of the two with quirky touches and an indoor herb garden – built with the aim of drawing crowds back to this forgotten quarter.  

The At Six entrance is all polished stone, gun-metal grey and clean lines, with an imposing white granite staircase as a central feature. It’s where, after a serene night’s sleep, we head out to see what the city has to offer.

At Six Hotel

Amelia is greeted by this imposing figure in the At Six Hotel lobby

Stockholm is a flâneur’s paradise. There aren’t really any tourist ‘must-see’ monuments to tick off your list so it’s best to follow your instincts and amble across the 14 islands and 50 bridges which comprise the city. We pass the Royal Opera House and stop in Strömparterren Park to admire the Adonis-like form of The Sun Singer statue, then onto Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s quaint old town.

Next we stop off in hip neighbourhood Södermalm on the South central side for ‘fika’. The Swedish take this enlightened coffee break very seriously. Its purpose is to take time to slow down, appreciate good company and have a baked good with a hot beverage; preferably coffee – another fundamental part of Swedish culture. We order sugar-adorned cinnamon buns at Gilda’s Rum café opposite popular summer hangout park Nytorget but swap our coffee for cold white wine; no doubt a sacrilegious move.

Read more: The twelve hippest neighbourhoods to visit this year

Dinner is a traditional affair at Aifur Krog & Bar (aifur.se), a bustling Viking-themed restaurant complete with live musicians. As you descend into the cellar your name is announced to your fellow diners before juniper-smoked pig’s side, parsnip cake and warm saffron pancake with cream and dewberry jam is served up. All eaten with traditional Viking cutlery. 

Still a little blurry from the Viking grog, the next morning we need a slow start, so head to Skeppsholmen island, passing artist Niki De Saint Phalle’s colourful Fantastic Paradise sculptures outside the Moderna Museet, Stockholm’s Museum of Modern Art, to find a spot to sit in the sunshine. The Terrace of The Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se) nearby is perfect for a lunch of pickled black radish and asparagus salad with spectacular views across the harbour.

Read more: The 25 cheapest city breaks in Europe

In the two days we take to explore the city, Stockholm’s slow-paced, relaxed energy becomes quickly evident. Walk slowly and indulge in the culture of fika with guilt-free social media respite. This, it turns out, is what I appreciate most about Sweden. OK, also the cinnamon buns.

At Six rooms from £200 a night (hotelatsix.com); Hobo rooms from £122 a night (hobo.se


festival women.jpg

Sweden to host ‘man-free’ rock festival next year


H&M just announced a collaboration with this very chic French brand


This is the world’s happiest country, says a global emotions report


Revel in Britain's most luxurious spa retreats

From log-fired hot tubs to salt scrub showers

22 Aug 2017

Solar eclipse 2017: how to watch it in the UK

The rare phenomenon will happen at sunset today

by Sarah Biddlecombe
21 Aug 2017

Revealed: the world’s best cities to live in

London didn't even make the top 50...

by Sarah Biddlecombe
16 Aug 2017

Discover an unspoilt corner of Sicily

With miles of wild, sandy beaches, a rich history and even richer cuisine, Stylist falls for south-east Sicily

by The Stylist web team
15 Aug 2017

You could rent a private Caribbean island for under £500

All your holiday dreams are about to come true

by Megan Murray
09 Aug 2017

8 Disney castles you can actually visit in real life

08 Aug 2017

Swim off Shetland's secret beaches

Wild swimming doesn't get much wilder than Scotland's shores; Stylist leaps in

by Anna Hart
08 Aug 2017

Is the ‘wanderlust gene’ the reason why you can’t stop travelling?

Some research suggests that thrill-seekers share a certain gene. But that isn’t the whole story

by Moya Crockett
04 Aug 2017

The world’s best sleeper train routes

Time to bunk up, from the UK to Europe and beyond

by Anna Brech
02 Aug 2017

This is how to find the cheapest flights on the internet

Less money spent on flights equals more money for the aperol spritz budget

by Sarah Biddlecombe
02 Aug 2017