Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

Escape routes: the ultimate winter holiday destination for foodies

Portetta Courchevel

Stylist contributor Michelle Margherita overcomes her Alpine aversion to dine at Angela Hartnett’s new eatery in Courchevel

Since the time I sprained both my knees after accidentally skiing an icy red run at Chamonix, I’ve stayed off-piste. But the opening of Angela Hartnett’s new Italian restaurant, Cucina Angelina at the Portetta Hotel in France’s Courchevel Moriond, was just the push I needed to give the Alps a second chance. After a quick evening flight from London to Geneva and a pretty two-hour drive along snowy roads, I arrived at Portetta, a wooden chalet-style hotel in what used to be known as Courchevel 1650, now renamed Moriond. Of the four Courchevel villages, Moriond is the quietest and least glitzy, attracting families and a younger, cooler crowd. If you’re wondering why one of Britain’s top chefs, who runs Michelin-starred restaurant Murano in London’s Mayfair, would up sticks to open a casual Italian eatery in a tiny French ski village, it’s because Portetta is no typical chalet hotel, but part of Britain’s Lime Wood group, who own the five-star Lime Wood country house in the New Forest (housing Angela’s HH & Co restaurant) and the much-lauded The Pig chain of restaurants-with-rooms in the UK.

Courchevel

Although high-profile British chefs, including Marcus Wareing and Heston Blumenthal, have cooked up a storm at gourmet ski festivals, Angela is the first to open a bricks-and-mortar restaurant slopeside. Everything on the menu is sourced from within 30-miles, and Angela’s Italian heritage, mixed with French Savoyard cooking, really comes through: torn chunks of melting buffalo mozzarella atop lentils flavoured with local herbs; tiny hand-shaped lemon-flavoured ravioli parcels stuffed with spinach and ricotta topped with sage and drizzled with French butter, and her family recipe for anolini, a simple dish of pasta parcels stuffed with breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese soaked in the juices of a slow-cooked veal shin, served in chicken broth.

Surroundings in Portetta are cloistered and cosy, with dark-wood panelling and reclaimed parquet giving the interiors old-school ski chalet charm, while every nook seems to boast a taxidermy elk, owl, or bear. Cucina Angelina is similarly casual, with banquettes and armchairs upholstered in mismatching Mulberry fabrics with not a tablecloth in sight. Portetta’s rooms are petite but the beds are big and every room has mountain views. And it’s the only ski-in-ski-out hotel at Moriond, so you can literally glide off the slope and into the Fire And Ice terrace bar for an après tipple and pizza dripping with melted savoie cheese and locally sourced salami from Angela’s wood-fired oven. Which is exactly what I did after my tentative lessons with instructor Francis, who somehow, miraculously, managed to conquer my fear of skiing. With food this good and my newfound love of the slopes, I’ll be back next year.


Rooms at Portetta (portetta.com) start from £152 per night
 

Related

Fisheman_rt.jpg

The world's 10 most remote destinations

302_STYLELIST_WATERMELON.jpg

This week's Style List

romantic-hotel2.JPG

Europe's most romantic hotel is right here in the UK

Tschuggen-Spa-Arosa-Switzerland.jpg

Ski and spa at a niche Swiss resort

catalonia villa group friend holiday.JPG

Ten stunning locations for the perfect holiday with friends

brimnes-hotel.jpg

Escape the grind with our pick of six luxurious log cabin getaways

Copenhagen.jpg

10 European city breaks you deserve to take this winter

1. Hotel ION Nesjavellir Nordurljos-61b.jpg

Take a wintry break amid Iceland's natural wonders

whale-shark.jpg

Unusual holiday courses to book for 2016

Comments

More

Meet the hotels with fascinating past lives

From a former prison to a converted bullring

by Deborah Cicurel
07 Dec 2016

Stylist’s Instagram travel competition: the winners

06 Dec 2016

The most Instagrammed hotels of 2016 will give you serious wanderlust

High-octane glitz and glamour, from Las Vegas to Barcelona.

by Moya Crockett
06 Dec 2016

Revel in small-town glamour at The King’s Head, Cirencester

by Anna Brech
05 Dec 2016

These pop-up hotel tents let you sleep literally anywhere in the world

And you can choose everything, from the view to the bed linens.

by Moya Crockett
05 Dec 2016

Why embracing the great outdoors makes Norwegians happier

And how it can work for you, too

by The Stylist web team
30 Nov 2016

The 10 most inspiring cities in the world have been revealed

And guess which British city has made the list?

by Kayleigh Dray
25 Nov 2016

This airline’s flights could be completely free within a decade

Um, what?

by Moya Crockett
22 Nov 2016

Study reveals where in Europe your job would make you the most money

Want to exit post-Brexit?

by Moya Crockett
22 Nov 2016

Dream home? This couple have built their own DIY island

And it’s ridiculously beautiful

by Kayleigh Dray
21 Nov 2016