Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation
Top

Wander Tallinn’s old town and meet a new city

ThinkstockPhotos-453253315.jpg

Stylist’s Deputy Art Editor, Callum Lewis, visits the Estonian capital, where medieval architecture provides the backdrop to a tech and culture boom

Ask any Estonian under the age of fifty what their country is most proud of, and you might expect to hear about the perfectly-preserved medieval architecture, or cross-country skiing, or even Eurovision glory days. But in fact, the thing Estonians rave about the most is Skype. Estonia is a tech powerhouse, with online voting (not Eurovision; we’re talking proper politics), tech training for schoolchildren from first grade onwards, and so we shouldn’t be surprised that the code for Skype was created back in 2003 right here in Tallinn. More than any other European city I’ve ever visited, Tallinn straddles the old and the new, effortlessly fusing the modern and the medieval.

Kissing the Baltic Sea, and sharing a latitude with St Petersburg and Stockholm, Tallinn’s Old Town is something straight out of a fairy-tale, a maze of cobbled streets and medieval churches making up a UNESCO world heritage site. In the summer, blue skies and sunshine illuminate the brightly-hued baroque buildings, and in winter, an atmospheric Christmas market (the tradition of having a Christmas tree in the square here dates back to 1441) takes over the Town Hall Square. The local nutsellers (yes, it’s a job: almonds roasted in a sweet orange glaze are a traditional Estonian snack) shamelessly play up to this fantasy by wearing costume as they flog their aromatic wares. Trust me, these almonds smell a lot better than hotdogs. 

With its fairytale views, we could live happily ever after in Tallinn

Tallinn’s recent history is far from a fairytale, of course - memories of the Soviet regime still linger, but the younger generation is determined to look forward, while accepting the turbulent recent past. And this past is written all over the city, visible in the architecture, the hedonistic spirit, the design trends. Visually, the entire city is a beguiling mix of medieval churches, soaring glass skyscrapers, baroque palaces, wooden taverns and the occasional Soviet relic. And the best way to get a flavour for the old town is the new way: by pulling on a pair of headphones for a BlueDrum virtual tour via a pre-programmed iPad. As someone who prefers to go at my own pace and explore a new city at leisure, this is my kind of tour.

With the help of my earpiece, I navigate a maze of side streets, completing a series of tasks to keep me interested, and by the end I feel like I’ve got seriously intimate with the Old Town, while learning a lot of useful trivia along the way. (Sample: Tallinn means ‘Danish City’, fact fans.)

The pool at Swissotel makes an opulent spot for a few lengths before breakfast

After a day pounding cobblestoned streets, I was excited about taking the weight off my feet and having a bite to eat. Skip the touristy restaurants that line the Old Town Square, and duck into the sidestreets to find the local favourites. Tucked behind an unassuming courtyard door is restaurant Mull (it means Bubble in Estonian) a salon owned by a glamorous ex-model called Beatrice. Mull is emblematic of a ‘home restaurant,’ an Estonian take on a supper-club type affair, where it really does feel like you’ve been invited to a stylish dinner party in Beatrice’s own living room. You can tell that every single piece of artwork or ornament has a story attached, and dinner at Mull might be the swiftest way to feel like you’ve tapped into Tallinn’s famously hip core.

Mull is one of the coolest restaurants in town, but for the swishest, I need to head back to my own digs, the Swissotel, and up to the 26th floor restaurant, Horisont. With views that stretch out to the Baltic sea, this is the highest restaurant in Estonia, and naturally enough the current hot dinner date spot. The hotel itself is mindblowingly good value - just over £100 for a hotel that President Obama has stayed at. Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows that put the dramatic sea views centre-stage, wooden flooring and a thoroughly Nordic, masculine aesthetic.

Callum experience the ultimate hotel luxury

Did I mention that Estonia takes design really seriously? I head to the bohemian quarter, Kalamaja (the old fish market) northwest of the historical Old Town, on the coast of Tallinn Bay. Formerly the fishing harbour and industrial district, today it is a hipster enclave, notable for the city’s distinctive wooden “Tallinn houses”, many of which are undergoing major refurbs as the middle classes move in. Aside from these rustic wooden homes, you’ll also find a smattering of ex-Soviet industrial plants, an old prison, a 1930s submarine and a legendary Russian fleamarket. The streets are lined with cool coffeeshops and independent boutiques, selling everything from fixed-wheel bicycles to handmade leather tote bags. Pop into Renard Speed Shop (renardspeedshop.tumblr.com) a custom motorcycle workshop that doubles up as a cool cafe. Les Petites showcases work by Estonian designers, and nearby Raamaturing is an atmospheric second-hand bookshop.

After wandering the gritty, fascinating streets of Kalamaja, it feels right to finish on a high note, by venturing to Toompea, or Dome Hill, a former aristocratic neighbourhood that currently houses the Estonia Parliament. Every Saturday, teh Dome Church is filled with eerie organ music, a fitting soundtrack to the 13th century coats-of-arms and tombs that make this free attraction a must-visit. But I climbed this hill for the city views. With red-roofed medieval houses caressing soaring glass skyscrapers, Tallinn certainly is ageing gracefully.


Town and Country

The call of the wild, with wi-fi: Lahemaa national park has got it all

Get out of town!

Just under an hour’s drive from Tallinn, and under the radar of most international visitors, is the 725 km² Lahemaa National Park. Estonians travel here en masse during the summer and autumn months, to swim in the peat bogs, pick berries and cycle along the trails that wind between the endless rows of pine trees. Lahemaa, which translates roughly as ‘Land of the Bays’, was the first area to be designated a national park of the former Soviet Union in 1971 - and remains one of the largest national parks in Europe - seeks to preserve North-Estonian landscapes, ecosystems, biodiversity and national heritage. Raised wooden walkways allow you to navigate your way across the bogs while avoiding getting stuck in the mud, and raised platforms offer fantastic views over the landscape and give you a better chance of seeing some the many animals that inhabit the park. But even in one of the oldest bogs of the park, the 7,000-year-old Laukasoo Reserve, you can’t quite escape Estonia’s technological bent. I turn on my phone, and yep, there’s wi-fi.

visitestonia.com

Related

bm6.JPG

Best friend for hire: inside the world of a professional bridesmaid

browns-b-b-external.JPG

The most and least affordable places to visit on bank holiday weekend

vesper.jpg

“I ditched my draining city existence for a lifelong holiday in Italy”

good egg Short Rib slices.jpg

The UK’s best new restaurants of September

jamie dornan cottage cotswolds-pictures 1.jpg

Now you can buy Jamie Dornan's £500,000 Cotswolds country cottage

dgw.jpg

Milan Fashion Week insider blog

12115923_987756764599051_212889004950249068_n.jpg

Photographer captures the many faces of women around the world

THE OLD CLARE HOTEL CLARE BAR.jpg

Indulge your inner foodie in Sydney's newest gourmet hotspot

dolls.jpg

The new business models: women who live their brands

Comments

More

These are the world’s most and least expensive beaches of 2017

Lunch on the Vietnamese coast is more than three times cheaper than sunscreen in the Seychelles

by Anna Brech
22 Jun 2017

This photobombing pup has taken the internet by storm

The cutest thing on the internet right now

by Nicola Colyer
21 Jun 2017

Discover the south coast of Corsica

Stylist kicks back on the French island

by Kitty McGee
20 Jun 2017

Audrey Hepburn's mansion is up for sale for £11 million

And she's not the only Hollywood legend to have lived there.

by Hayley Spencer
20 Jun 2017

This hotel's 24-karat gold sheets take travel luxury to the next level

Yes, sleeping like a ridiculous princess is going to cost you

by Hayley Spencer
20 Jun 2017

Check into an eco-luxe hotel on the US West Coast

Stylist finds in California 'farm-to-table' isn't a trend, it's a way of life

by Joanna McGarry
15 Jun 2017

The beautiful Wes Anderson places we’ve stumbled across in real life

These ‘accidental Wes Anderson’ spots are getting a lot of love on Reddit

by Kayleigh Dray
14 Jun 2017

Hot’dam – 40% off a luxury Amsterdam trip

08 Jun 2017

The best walking routes to explore from the city

by Victoria Gray
02 Jun 2017

Glamp in Wales with these extraordinary boutique cabins for two

The futuristic retreats are a work of architectural triumph

by Anna Brech
02 Jun 2017