Jump to Main ContentJump to Primary Navigation

Wander Tallinn’s old town and meet a new city


Stylist’s Deputy Art Editor, Callum Lewis, visits the Estonian capital, where medieval architecture provides the backdrop to a tech and culture boom

Ask any Estonian under the age of fifty what their country is most proud of, and you might expect to hear about the perfectly-preserved medieval architecture, or cross-country skiing, or even Eurovision glory days. But in fact, the thing Estonians rave about the most is Skype. Estonia is a tech powerhouse, with online voting (not Eurovision; we’re talking proper politics), tech training for schoolchildren from first grade onwards, and so we shouldn’t be surprised that the code for Skype was created back in 2003 right here in Tallinn. More than any other European city I’ve ever visited, Tallinn straddles the old and the new, effortlessly fusing the modern and the medieval.

Kissing the Baltic Sea, and sharing a latitude with St Petersburg and Stockholm, Tallinn’s Old Town is something straight out of a fairy-tale, a maze of cobbled streets and medieval churches making up a UNESCO world heritage site. In the summer, blue skies and sunshine illuminate the brightly-hued baroque buildings, and in winter, an atmospheric Christmas market (the tradition of having a Christmas tree in the square here dates back to 1441) takes over the Town Hall Square. The local nutsellers (yes, it’s a job: almonds roasted in a sweet orange glaze are a traditional Estonian snack) shamelessly play up to this fantasy by wearing costume as they flog their aromatic wares. Trust me, these almonds smell a lot better than hotdogs. 

With its fairytale views, we could live happily ever after in Tallinn

Tallinn’s recent history is far from a fairytale, of course - memories of the Soviet regime still linger, but the younger generation is determined to look forward, while accepting the turbulent recent past. And this past is written all over the city, visible in the architecture, the hedonistic spirit, the design trends. Visually, the entire city is a beguiling mix of medieval churches, soaring glass skyscrapers, baroque palaces, wooden taverns and the occasional Soviet relic. And the best way to get a flavour for the old town is the new way: by pulling on a pair of headphones for a BlueDrum virtual tour via a pre-programmed iPad. As someone who prefers to go at my own pace and explore a new city at leisure, this is my kind of tour.

With the help of my earpiece, I navigate a maze of side streets, completing a series of tasks to keep me interested, and by the end I feel like I’ve got seriously intimate with the Old Town, while learning a lot of useful trivia along the way. (Sample: Tallinn means ‘Danish City’, fact fans.)

The pool at Swissotel makes an opulent spot for a few lengths before breakfast

After a day pounding cobblestoned streets, I was excited about taking the weight off my feet and having a bite to eat. Skip the touristy restaurants that line the Old Town Square, and duck into the sidestreets to find the local favourites. Tucked behind an unassuming courtyard door is restaurant Mull (it means Bubble in Estonian) a salon owned by a glamorous ex-model called Beatrice. Mull is emblematic of a ‘home restaurant,’ an Estonian take on a supper-club type affair, where it really does feel like you’ve been invited to a stylish dinner party in Beatrice’s own living room. You can tell that every single piece of artwork or ornament has a story attached, and dinner at Mull might be the swiftest way to feel like you’ve tapped into Tallinn’s famously hip core.

Mull is one of the coolest restaurants in town, but for the swishest, I need to head back to my own digs, the Swissotel, and up to the 26th floor restaurant, Horisont. With views that stretch out to the Baltic sea, this is the highest restaurant in Estonia, and naturally enough the current hot dinner date spot. The hotel itself is mindblowingly good value - just over £100 for a hotel that President Obama has stayed at. Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows that put the dramatic sea views centre-stage, wooden flooring and a thoroughly Nordic, masculine aesthetic.

Callum experience the ultimate hotel luxury

Did I mention that Estonia takes design really seriously? I head to the bohemian quarter, Kalamaja (the old fish market) northwest of the historical Old Town, on the coast of Tallinn Bay. Formerly the fishing harbour and industrial district, today it is a hipster enclave, notable for the city’s distinctive wooden “Tallinn houses”, many of which are undergoing major refurbs as the middle classes move in. Aside from these rustic wooden homes, you’ll also find a smattering of ex-Soviet industrial plants, an old prison, a 1930s submarine and a legendary Russian fleamarket. The streets are lined with cool coffeeshops and independent boutiques, selling everything from fixed-wheel bicycles to handmade leather tote bags. Pop into Renard Speed Shop (renardspeedshop.tumblr.com) a custom motorcycle workshop that doubles up as a cool cafe. Les Petites showcases work by Estonian designers, and nearby Raamaturing is an atmospheric second-hand bookshop.

After wandering the gritty, fascinating streets of Kalamaja, it feels right to finish on a high note, by venturing to Toompea, or Dome Hill, a former aristocratic neighbourhood that currently houses the Estonia Parliament. Every Saturday, teh Dome Church is filled with eerie organ music, a fitting soundtrack to the 13th century coats-of-arms and tombs that make this free attraction a must-visit. But I climbed this hill for the city views. With red-roofed medieval houses caressing soaring glass skyscrapers, Tallinn certainly is ageing gracefully.

Town and Country

The call of the wild, with wi-fi: Lahemaa national park has got it all

Get out of town!

Just under an hour’s drive from Tallinn, and under the radar of most international visitors, is the 725 km² Lahemaa National Park. Estonians travel here en masse during the summer and autumn months, to swim in the peat bogs, pick berries and cycle along the trails that wind between the endless rows of pine trees. Lahemaa, which translates roughly as ‘Land of the Bays’, was the first area to be designated a national park of the former Soviet Union in 1971 - and remains one of the largest national parks in Europe - seeks to preserve North-Estonian landscapes, ecosystems, biodiversity and national heritage. Raised wooden walkways allow you to navigate your way across the bogs while avoiding getting stuck in the mud, and raised platforms offer fantastic views over the landscape and give you a better chance of seeing some the many animals that inhabit the park. But even in one of the oldest bogs of the park, the 7,000-year-old Laukasoo Reserve, you can’t quite escape Estonia’s technological bent. I turn on my phone, and yep, there’s wi-fi.




Best friend for hire: inside the world of a professional bridesmaid


The most and least affordable places to visit on bank holiday weekend


“I ditched my draining city existence for a lifelong holiday in Italy”

good egg Short Rib slices.jpg

The UK’s best new restaurants of September

jamie dornan cottage cotswolds-pictures 1.jpg

Now you can buy Jamie Dornan's £500,000 Cotswolds country cottage


Milan Fashion Week insider blog


Photographer captures the many faces of women around the world


Indulge your inner foodie in Sydney's newest gourmet hotspot


The new business models: women who live their brands



Last-minute mother-daughter getaways to book for Mother’s Day

From spa retreats to gin tasting

24 Mar 2017

The insider tips to help you bag a cheaper holiday

Sneaky flexi-flight tricks and Sunday arrivals

by Amy Swales
23 Mar 2017

It's official: This is the world's best holiday destination

And you might be surprised by which destination came in second.

by Hayley Spencer
23 Mar 2017

The top six #springtime photos taking over your Instagram feed

Believe it or not, spring has sprung...

22 Mar 2017

Uncover art and hidden history in the Bavarian city of Munich

Stylist discovers there's more to Munich than beer and sausages

by The Stylist web team
21 Mar 2017

Travel expert reveals cheapest and most expensive days to fly

Read this before you book your big summer holiday…

by Kayleigh Dray
20 Mar 2017

It's official: these are the world's 10 best cities to live in

And most of them are in Europe

by Sarah Biddlecombe
14 Mar 2017

Here’s what the new “UK Disneyland” will look like

Dazzling sketches of the upcoming resort have just been released.

by Moya Crockett
13 Mar 2017

Take time out to refresh your body and palate in Iceland

Stylist's editorial assistant tastes home-grown goodness in Reykjavik

by  Moya Lothian-McLean
06 Mar 2017

You and your BFF could Instagram your way around Europe for free

This actually sounds like the best job in the world

by Kayleigh Dray
28 Feb 2017