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The foodie's guide to Paris

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The gourmands at Stylist HQ bring you the perfect foodie day in Paris.

9am: Breakfast

Coutume Café (47 Rue De Babylone; coutumecafe.com) is the only place to go for morning coffee. This small, unassuming cafe has a huge coffee roaster and distiller, open bags of imported beans and a barista flown in from NYC. On the second Saturday of every month they run free coffee tasting sessions where locals learn the art of ‘cupping’ (sniffing, inhaling and tasting the coffee when it’s dry, wet and brewed). Sip the best cappuccino Stylist has ever tasted – made with a shot from their Origine blend, a mix of Brazil Daterra Bruzzi, Ethiopia Yirgacheffe and Guatemala Santa Ana beans – while trying to spot one of the many coffee bloggers who flock from around the world.

10am: Markets

On Sundays don’t miss the Organic Market, which is just a few streets away (Le Marché Biologique, Boulevard Raspail Market). Running from Cherce-Midi to Rue De Rennes, it’s just €2.30 to get in and you’ll find mounds of fresh, organic produce along with amazing American muffins, €4 bags of fragrant herbs and roasted chickens. A non-organic version of the market is also open on Mondays and Fridays.

Walk 10 minutes down the road to Rue De Grennelle and sniff out Barthélemy (51 Rue Grenelle); the best cheese shop in Paris. Stocked to the ceiling with every French cheese imaginable, along with curds and whey behind the counter and brie ripening in the window. Don’t leave without trying the coated chèvre (goat’s cheese) which is hand-rolled in cumin, paprika, raisins, nuts, cinnamon and caraway seeds.

If the mood takes you, stroll down Rue De Grenelle to Rue Cler – a lovely cobbled street packed full of cafes and greengrocers. Davoli (34 Rue Cler; davoli-paris.fr) – an old-fashioned larder shop – and Martine Lambert (36 Rue Cler), a no frills ice-cream shop with produce all made from Normandy milk are must-visits. Next stop should be the beautiful La Pâtisserie des Rêves (93 Rue Du Bac; lapatisseriedesreves.com); a cake boutique that looks more like an art gallery. The lemon tart served from a huge dome is delicious as are the éclairs but it’s the giant croissants that really tempt.

Lemon tart is served from a huge dome but it’s the giant croissants that really tempt

1pm: Lunch

Go east, over the Pont Royal bridge and through the Jardin des Tuileries to the Les Halles district – Paris’ newest foodie hub which is home to trendmakers such as Spring and The Experimental Cocktail Club (ECC), as well as the Rue Montorgueil food market. Lunch options in this district are endless. Stylist went for Yam’tcha (4 Rue Sauval; yamtcha.com), an exclusive boutique fusion restaurant (mussels and tofu salad, razor clams and foie gras) where the Paris elite vie for a table in the window. Opt for the tea-pairing menu for something truly special. Traditionalists should head to Au Pied De Cochon (6 Rue Coquillere; pieddecochon.com) which serves the best onion soup in Paris for €7. Fact. Imagine a layer of bread soaked in a rich and salty onion soup and then topped with an inch of melted Gruyère cheese, forming a thick gooey crust. Best of all it is open 24 hours a day. Next door is E Dehillerin (18-20 Rue Coquillere; e-dehillerin.fr) a cluttered culinary treasure trove selling fine copper pots. It’s chaotic, but has everything a kitchen could need.

On Saturdays you have to try an afternoon of wine tasting at Spring (6 Rue Bailleul; springparis.fr) where Josh Adler (head of wine at French chef Daniel Rose’s artisan eatery) does weekly tastings. He took us through six wines, all rare and sometimes biodynamic, including a smooth white Meursault from 2002 and a Rust Beerenauslese Schröck; a different take on a Sauterne made by female winemaker Heidi Schröck. Spring – with its almost nonexistent website – is shrouded in secrecy, which we loved.

5pm: Check in

Take a taxi to Hôtel La Trémoille (14, Rue De La Tremoille; tremoille.com; from €340 per room per night); a luxurious hideaway just 10 minutes’ walk from the Champs-Élysées. La Trémoille is perfect base for a foodie experience. The concierge knows every restaurant maitre d’ by name. The rooms are plush, well sized and boast delicious room service (succulent burgers and crispy fries at any hour).

8pm: Luxury dining

Dinner at Le 39V (39 Avenue George V; le39v.com), a stunning new rooftop restaurant just off the fashionable Avenue George V, is a must. We loved the open kitchen (which glows when the sun sets) and the vegetable garden on the terrace, which grows piccolo peppers, lemons, orange, fresh mint and chillies. Just pray the Grand Marnier soufflé is on the menu – sweet and crisp on top with soft marshmallow underneath and a fiery pool of spirits at the bottom – a divine fusion of two of France’s best-loved exports.



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