If we were the summarise the one key beauty takeaway from the NYFW shows it would be this: make-up is firmly back on the beauty agenda.
Where seasons gone by have favoured that elusive ‘no make-up make-up’ glow, backstage at the autumn/winter 2017 shows, make-up artists delved to the bottom of their kits pulling out a rainbow of eyeshadow shades, creamy pots of pigment, oh and gloss – a whole lot of gloss.
From the prettiest peachy hues to the new way to wear a smokey eye, here’s my edit of the top three autumn/winter 2017 make-up trends you’ll want to add to your repertoire now…
Images: Rex, Nars, Stylist
If NYFW beauty could be summarised in a single colour it would be this: peach.
That part-orange, part-pink pastel make-up shade we thought we left behind in the 70s along with powder blue and dusky lilac has reemerged from make-up artists’ kits this season. But when brushed across eyes in soft clouds it has never looked more modern.
And here comes the best bit: peach make-up miraculously suits all skin colours thanks to its balance of warm brown and cool pink tones.
Here’s how to wear the peach make-up trend…
It can be tricky to find eyeshadows in peachy, pinky shades so instead, look to blusher.
At Delpozo, make-up artist Michelle Marmo set herself the challenge of recreating the pearlescent shimmer of fish scales on the eyes. To do so, she brushed NARS Dual Intensity Blusher in Fervor (£30) all over the eyelid, before layering with the metallic hues of NARS Rigel and Antares Dual Intensity Eyeshadows (£21 each) to create that sparkling effect. On darker skin, try using a slightly damp brush to amp up the colour payoff.
For Narciso Rodriguez, make-up artist Dick Page used a beige-peach tone to line around the eyes.
But be careful, wearing make-up shades with pink tones around the eyes can exacerbate any natural redness. Be sure to meticulously conceal the area with a heavyweight concealer first. Stylist’s beauty editor Shannon Peter swears by: Too Faced Born This Way Concealer (£20).
Backstage at Jeremy Scott, make-up artist Kabuki mixed together MAC Cream Colour Eye Base in Hush and Tint (£18 each) and patted onto the eyelid to just above the crease for a salmon-toned wash. To give this pretty look a bit of edge, he chopped up MAC’s 7 lashes (£11.50) and dotted sections along the lower lash line. It’s a fiddly job, so don’t attempt without tweezers.
THE BIG SMOKE
By only day two of NYFW, it was clear that smokey eyes are not going away anytime soon.
Sorry if you’ve only just mastered the trio of grey shades buffed and blended into oblivion over the eyelids (us too!), the modern smokey eye favours colour. That means its time to introduce shades of bronze, emerald and burgundy into your make-up bag.
Here’s how to wear the new smokey eye trend…
At Brandon Maxwell, make-up artist Tom Pecheux first lined the upper lashes, extending the line from the outer corner of the eye up into the crease to create a wing.
Then, he buffed a true pitch-black powder eye shadow into the inner and outer corner of the eyelid, leaving the centre of the lid bare ready for a flash of holographic colour.
Each model picked from a line-up of six jewel-toned MAC pigments, which Pecheux then patted onto the centre of the lids using a damp brush.
Make-up artist extraordinaire Pat McGrath created a graphic take on the smokey eye at Anna Sui by applying a sapphire eyeshadow in an oval shape over the eyelid, intensifying the inner and outer corners with a darker navy shadow.
Using a damp brush can help make the eyeshadow shape more precise as it controls any lose flecks of pigment but make sure you have cotton buds and make-up remover close by (handily, DHC’s come pre-soaked) for fixing any mistakes.
Burgundy was the colour of choice backstage at La Perla, where half the models more a matte burgundy shade on the lips. As for the other half, make-up artist Erin Parson’s created a sultry burgundy smokey eye by scribbling over the eyelid with a plum lip liner, which formed a waxy base for the shimmering violet shade from Maybelline’s Blushed Nudes (£9.99) on top. The finish touch was a dab of fuschia shadow in the centre of the eyelid for extra depth of colour.
Could the New York Fashion Week shows mark the end of matte make-up?
Backstage, make-up artists swapped mattifying powders for luminescent highlighters, powdery matte eyeshadow for the sheen of creamier formulas and flat-toned lipsticks for mirror-shine lacquers. In short, it’s time to shine.
Here’s how to make glossy make-up work for you…
3.1 Phillip Lim
Francelle Daly ditched foundation in favour of NARS Pure Radiant Tinted moisturiser (£30) which gave skin a dewy skin reminiscent of the shine you get after an hour of Bikram yoga. Or try Stylist’s beauty editor Shannon Peter’s favourite sheen-inducing trick: after make-up (avoiding powder formulas), pat a little face oil such as Elemis Superfood Facial Oil (£45) onto the cheekbones and along the bridge of the nose for the most realistic post-facial glow.
It was the eyeliner that got the gloss treatment at Libertine. Make-up artist Katie Jane Hughes lined the eyes with cult Korean brand Too Cool For School’s Dinoplatz Highline Eyeliner (£13.50) and traced over it with clear lip gloss to give it a high shine finish.
After patting MAC’s metallic Metalhead lipstick onto the centre of eyelids, Gucci Westman waited until minutes before the show to layer clear lipgloss on top for a mirror-shine finish. Plus, the sticky texture of the gloss starts to break up the colour underneath, giving it a pretty, disheveled texture. Westman’s top tip for glossy eyes: “Always apply the gloss last to avoid sticky, spidery lashes.”