All the inspiration from London’s most creative and boldest SS19 shows.
Known for the more ‘out-there’ trends of fashion month, London never fails to inspire big, bold and beautiful trends. With this in mind, the Stylist beauty team zipped from show to show (our lives and schedules made that much easier with help from Volvo) to capture exclusive backstage footage / sneak snacks from the trestle tables.
So, from troll doll ponytails and pirate-inspired tresses, to tiny real flowers on nails, here are the beauty looks you need to know about in 2019.
Before we get in to Erdem’s haphazard technicolour eyes, we need to share the touching story behind the designer’s collection. Erdem Moralıoğlu himself moved into a house in Bloomsbury, where he found a plaque on the wall featuring two sisters named Fanny and Stella who previously lived in the house together – except the sisters were actually gay lovers, forced to disguise themselves as women so society would allow them to live together in peace. Therefore, all the visuals for Erdem SS19 centred around gender neutrality. “[The eyeshadow] can be worn on both women or men,” said lead makeup artist Val Garland for NARS. “There is also a notion of eccentricity to it.”
Models had Bohemian-inspired pops of colour on their eyes in shades of forest green, rose pink, cobalt blue, acid yellow or white, with the pigment being applied in Garland’s signature way – using cotton wool instead of a brush to deliver as much product as possible, and letting the powder fall down onto the cheeks for drops of colour. Products used include Nars Blush in Gaiety, £24, Nars Single Eyeshadows in Douro, £16, and Baby Jane, and Nars Velvet Eyeliner in Curaçao, £17.50.
The models at JW Anderson were given crinkled beach waves to match their pirate-inspired head scarves, with a technique that’s pretty identical to our go-to method for textured hair as teenagers – the plait hack. Anthony Turner for Dyson dampened models’ hair with L’Oreal Tecni.Art Pli Styling Spray, £11.70, and braided it into two plaits before drying with the Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer, £299.99, and its precision nozzle. After leaving to set, braids were undone and roughly ruffled with fingers.
House of Holland
Matching your nails to your liner is a trend we wish had come about sooner. MUA Zoe Taylor for MAC swiped their white hot Acrylic Paint in Pure White, £16.50, in a line from the inner corners to the brow arch, then another across the outer half of the upper lash line for an edgy geometrical effect. Meanwhile, OPI UK Ambassador Jenni Draper used the brand’s cult Alpine Snow shade, £13.50, to trace one diagonal stripe on each nail.
If the models’ punky rows of topknots are giving you serious Nineties nostalgia, it’s for good reason; hairstylist Luke Hersheson and his team for John Frieda were inspired by the decade’s Galliano catwalk shows and the Spice Girls. Five ponytails were gathered from front to back (like a Mohawk), split into half, then knotted repeatedly and folded back to the base to create messy, spiky buns. The John Frieda Luxurious Volume Blow Dry Spray, £6.99, was used to secure the ponytails, and Frizz Ease 6 Effects Serum, £6.99, was rubbed into the ends.
The Romani-Gypsy pot Papusza was the muse for both hair and face at Bora Aksu. Tina Outen for L’Oreal Professionnel used the brand’s Tecni.ART Hollywood Waves Spiral Queen Mousse, £15, to weigh the hair down before rough drying, braiding it into two and tying up to form two loops. Then make-up artist Janeen Witherspoon prepped the skin with Biocell’s Regenerating Sheet Mask, £5.99, before blending earthy red and brown tones around the entire eye area and brushing brows upwards for a rugged look to mimic the look of someone who’s been “roaming around the forest.”
Nomadic travellers echoed as the muse for Preen as well, with Val Garland creating freckles as the central focus of the look. Three to seven shades of MAC’s Shape and Shade Brow Tint, £19.50, were used to replicate realistic, multi-tonal freckles, with stippled dots of warm lipstick acting as a healthy natural smattering across the nose and cheeks.
For her SS19 show, Williams brought her lucky TROLLZ doll mascot to life with gravity-defying ponytails in sorbet hues. BLEACH London stepped in, with co-founder Alex Brownsell dying some models’ hair shades of electric yellow, pale blonde, fire-engine red and salmon pink and using BLEACH London’s Swamp Spritz Salt Spray, £6, to fix a towering ponytail before securing with Williams’ diamanté hair slides reading ‘virgin’, ‘sex’, ‘ozone’ and ‘witch’, letting models choose which word spoke to them the most.
Fashion East Charlotte Knowles
Now, this is dedicated nail art at its finest. Head manicurist Lauren Michelle Pires carefully placed 400 actual dried flowers underneath false nails, then topped with a blend of pastel colour and Nails Inc’s 45 Second Topcoat, £15, for a transparent, paperweight-inspired look.
Isamaya Ffrench’s vibe for Ashish SS19 was that sweaty, 6am post-club look where you’ve danced the night away and your make-up and hair are suffering, but in the coolest possible way. MAC’s Chromacake, £22.50, was pressed into the inner eye corners in shades of tangerine and mermaid green, with MAC Strobe Cream, £25, and Lipglass, £15.50, dabbed strategically to give the illusion of sweating.
Ffrench struck her magic again on the Halpern models, sketching out an exaggerated outline of a cat eye with MAC’s Pro Longwear Fluidline Gel Liner in Blacktrack, £17, then packing the empty space with glitter. The key to avoiding the tiny flecks from shifting everywhere over time? Eyelash glue layered on as a base, then a flat square concealer brush used as the weapon of choice to precisely load the glitter on.
Main image: Getty Images
Images: Getty Images/Ava Welsing-Kitcher