Stylist brings you the looks straight from London Fashion Week that’ll be dominating beauty trends come autumn. Get ready for some serious inspiration…
35 shows, 23 backstage visits, 46 incredible make-up artists and hairstylists, 8 kilos of glitter, 31 cans of hairspray, 14 packets of Haribo, and four days - London Fashion Week was a blur for junior beauty writer Ava Welsing-Kitcher. Backstage was a true site for inspiration, with clear trends emerging for autumn/winter 2018.
Ava managed to zip from show to show with ease thanks to Volvo.
From power ponytails to grown-up glitter, bold brights and OTT nails, the London Fashion week shows gave us a whole array of beauty looks that are just as attention-grabbing as they are wearable.
Seen at: Delpozo, Ashish, Lulu Guinness, Toga, Peter Pilotto, House of Holland, Christopher Kane
Already seen at NYFW, the trend of letting models’ natural hair shine through continued in London – especially when it came to afro-textured hair. Curls and coils of every texture were seen on pretty much every black and mixed heritage model, with their hair either being left alone in its untouched glory, curled with tongs to define, or picked out to enhance.
For Delpozo, Jon Reyman created a unique type of diffuser to shape afro hair: mesh fabric stretched over a coat hanger. “We placed the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer, £299.99, on top, holding the hanger like a paddle,” explains Reyman. “It’s a delicate process, and the hair dryer creates controlled heat and airflow. Once we have the desired shape and texture, we set the hair with Aveda Control Force Hairspray, £22.”
Seen at: Peter Pilotto, Palmer//Harding, Delpozo, Eudon Choi
Lips took a backseat for many LFW designers, with eyes becoming the central focus. Peter Pilotto’s models had theirs adorned with hazy smudges of fuschia, violet and yellow. “I wanted the girls to replicate the days when they’d play with eyeshadow in the confines of their childhood bedrooms, so I got them to swipe the shadow on themselves,” says MAC make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver. “Combined with the ‘Sixties opium den’ vibe of the clothing, we’ve got this playful, undone glamour going on.”
Delpozo opted for painted slicks of NARS’ new hyper-metallic gold and silver pots, leaving the rest of the face bare – whereas Eudon Choi’s models had graphic outlines in bold primary colours. At Palmer//Harding, Make Up For Ever picked one model to splash neon orange on her lids, keeping the rest of the models faces neutral.
Over-the-top nail art
Seen at: Gareth Pugh, Sophia Webster
While many designers opted for neutral nails, Gareth Pugh and Sophia Webster decided to go much bolder. With the help of CND ambassador Marian Newman, graphic textured styles were sported to represent Pugh’s vision of the Grace Jones-esque Eighties power woman.
Over at Sophia Webster, Newman created bespoke bedazzled nails using Swarovski crystals. “Our mantra for this manicure is ‘ditch the jewellery, wear the nails,’” Marian told Stylist. Her jelly-inspired nail grabbed our attention in particular. To create it, Marian layered strips of metallic tape over a red CND Wildfire, £10.95, base before topping with clear gel polish and fastening clusters of Swarovski beads on the crescent of the nail.
Seen at: Mark Fast, Palmer//Harding, House of Holland, Sadie Williams, Simone Rocha
Ponytails of all shapes and sizes were spotted, often adorned with a statement hair accessory. At Palmer//Harding, models sported an elegantly modern twisted style, while Simone Rocha’s knotted plaited ponytail was finished off with ribbon and a glittery bow clip. The most show-stopping pony had to be Syd Hayes’ explosive creation for Sadie Williams.
“We used extensions to create a 30in ponytail,” Hayes told Stylist. “After spraying lots of Evo Root Canal Base Support Spray, £19.95, and the new L’Oréal Stylista The Blowdry Cream, £5.99, and blow-drying, I drew it back into a tight and low ponytail. After crimping with the BaByliss Pro Crimper, £18, I then brushed the crimp up and out.”
The exploding ponytail was then completed with Hayes’ new accessory designed in collaboration with Williams: a leather printed ‘SydCuffxSadie’, secured with a coveted silver Syd Hayes Hair Pin, £63.
Seen at: Preen, AV Robertson, Sophia Webster
Preen’s oceanic eco-feminist theme was brought to life with just a sprinkle of glitter. Val Garland gave models a “glacial” glitter-dusting by blowing MAC’s new Iridescent White Glitter (coming soon) and Mixing Medium Shine, £16.50, over their foreheads.
“I wanted to give them an opalescent sheen as if they’ve just emerged from the water,” Val told Stylist. “The trick is to keep the foundation dewy in order to make the glitter stick.” Over at Sophia Webster, the models had glittery, waved ponytails and Swarovski-encrusted nails.
Images: Rex / Courtesy