How to nail the rebellious make-up trend

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Anita Bhagwandas
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From burnished glitter to coloured mascara, there are subtle new ways to give your make-up an anarchic twist. Make-up artist Alex Babsky and Urban Decay reveal how to be a beauty rebel now.

Applying the same black mascara day after day and swiping your blusher across the apples of the cheeks are actions that have a firm place in our everyday beauty routines, but they can get tedious. Stylist challenges you to take one section of your make-up up a notch, playing with colour, texture and finishes for a subtle beauty rebellion. 

Go low

Lashings of black aren’t the only way to embrace the anti-pretty ethos. Channel the signature look of punk frontwoman Brody Dalle by ringing eyes with chestnut brown eyeshadow across and past your lower lash line, extending it horizontally instead of flicking it upwards. Add a touch of glitter below each eye for a grungy flash.

Rimmel Soft Kohl Kajal Eye Pencil in Sable Brown, £2.99; Urban Decay Naked Petite Heat Eyeshadow Palette, £26; L’Oréal Paris Volume Million Lashes Mascara in Brown, £10.99; Barry M Glitter Rush Body Glitter in Rose Quartz, £4.59; Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray, £24.

Dress, £25.99, Zara; cuff earring, £89, Kasun; stud earring, model’s own; safety pin earring, stylist’s own.

Lash out

A key trend on the catwalks, as seen at Dior’s s/s 2018 show, clumpy lashes are the ultimate way to add a rebellious, spidery edge to your make-up. Dial up the art-school vibe by going for contrasting shades and playing with placement. Use the tip of the wand for serious clumps that will stand out. Rules? What rules?

Makeup Revolution Conceal & Define Concealer, £4; Kiko Smart Colour Mascara in 03 Emerald, £5.90; 3INA The Color Mascara in 104, £8.95; Urban Decay Comfort Matte Vice Lipstick in Backtalk, £16.50 

Dress, £52, Topshop; ear cuff, £39, Latelita London; earring, £119, Thomas Sabo

Rethink pink

Inspired by punk icon Jordan, aka Pamela Rooke, this look uses asymmetry and soft shades of rose and lime to draw attention to the eye area, as seen at Valentino this season. The key to getting straight edges sharp is micropore tape: lay it down before applying blusher, then peel away to reveal a clean edge.

Urban Decay Brow Box in Honey Pot, £22; Bourjois Little Round Pot Blusher in Cendre de Rose Brune, £6.49; Max Factor Wild Eyeshadow Pot in Untamed Green, £4.99; Urban Decay All Nighter Liquid Foundation in 2.0, £29.50; Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray, £24 

Jacket, £59.99, Mango; earring, model’s own; ring, £79, Thomas Sabo 

Get an accent

A dark lip and nude eye combination is a classic Hollywood femme fatale look, but teaming it with a diminutive ‘accent’ or stripe of gold (essentially, a faux lip ring) adds a rebellious twist. Use a skinny eyeliner brush tilted on its side to make sure the stripe is super-slim and piercing-esque. Brush your eyebrows upwards and outwards and forgo mascara to create a boyish contrast.

Urban Decay Brow Box in Honey Pot, £22; Maybelline Fit Me Foundation, £6.99; No7 Precision Lips Pencil in Plum, £7; NYX Professional Makeup Matte Lipstick in Goal Digger, £7; Urban Decay Razor Sharp Liquid Eyeliner in Snakebite, £17.50 

Blouse, £75, Topshop Boutique

Match your textures

Texture can be as subversive as a graphic black liner. Used on both the lip and eye, this vinyl look is high-maintenance, but the ultimate in soft rebellion. Try shades in similar families, matching pinks and reds, or blues and purples to keep the look tonal. Use a mattifying primer on the skin, keeping all the gleam on the eyes and lips. Pat on eye gloss, using the side of your little finger to sweep it along the lower lash line, then go in with a small brush to slightly soften the edges. Blink a few times to distribute the gloss evenly over the lids, and skip blush to avoid a ‘dolly’ look, then finish with subtle swipes of brown mascara and brushed-up, boyish brows.

3INA The Eye Gloss in 503, £9.95; No7 Match Made Moisture Drench Lipstick in Pink Burst, £10; NYX Professional Makeup Slip Tease Full Colour Lip Oil in Baecation, £6; L’Oréal Paris Volume Million Lashes Mascara in Brown, £10.99; Urban Decay Optical Illusion Complexion Primer, £14.50. 

Jacket, £99, Urban Outfitters; earrings, Stylist’s own.

Photography: David Oldham Beauty Direction Anita Bhagwandas