We pick the biggest and boldest beauty trends from New York’s SS19 fashion week shows.
New York Fashion Week SS19 came with a smorgasbord of beauty looks with everything from ‘Texan Barbies’ to ‘rockabilly’ acting as the backstage teams’ inspiration.
Here are the hair and make-up trends to watch for spring/summer 19.
Everyone knows sea-kissed hair and sun-touched skin are the best bits of being on holiday so we’re not surprised ‘vacation beauty’ acted as the inspiration for the Prabal Gurung show. A pared-back aesthetic calls for a low-key kit. Make-up artist Diane Kendal pressed highlighter onto models’ cheekbones, the centre of the nose and above the Cupid’s bow. A few dabs of MAC Lip Conditioner, £13, over the top gave the kind of gleam that only comes from a day spent on the beach (or, in this case, a five-star balm).
For the salt-soaked hair, stylist Anthony Turner used Wella Professional EIMI Extra Volume Mousse, £13.60, at the roots. To create unkempt waves, he blow-dried it roughly while twisting sections. Wella Professional’s EIMI Ocean Spritz, £10.80 - the next best thing to the real deal - added matte texture. Then he used a one-inch barrel curling iron to twirl random sections before backcombing.
Wella Professional EIMI Sugar Lift, £10.80, added a final layer of shine and even more texture then he roughly pulled it into a chignon while teasing pieces out around the face and leaving the ends straight.
Who said fully-loaded glitter only had a place during party season? At the Jeremy Scott show (pictured), models flaunted spring-ready lips of the sparkliest kind. “The look is a bold foil-like lip in neutral shades. The metallic edginess is in keeping with the brashness of youth,” commented make-up artist Kabuki. He used MAC Lip Pencil in Edge To Edge, £14, to shape before adding a thin veil of MAC Mixing Medium Eyeliner, £13, over the whole lip.
His secret to creating an opaque pigment-packed shot of glitter? Kabuki layered a liquid shimmer over a loose glitter. MAC Dazzleshadow Liquid in Love Yourself, £16.50, came first followed by MAC Glitter in Pink, £16.50.
Models’ hair - in contrast - was surprisingly understated. Stylist Eugene Souleiman used Wella Professionals EIMI Perfect Me, £10.80 - a light smoothing balm - and Wella Professionals EIMI Glam Mist, £13.60 - a shine-boosting spray. Then he twirled sections with ghd Platinum+ Styler, £175, for subtle, chic girl movement.
Pastel-coloured bouffants stole the show at Marc Jacobs (pictured). “It’s all loosely based on the 60s, with a nod to a lot of iconic women like Barbara Streisand who were always ‘done’ at the salon,” explained Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau.
“I worked with Marc and Guido very closely on these looks. I think we’ve coloured about 37 girls… this is the biggest colour project I’ve worked on, with every single girl being a different colour,’ added Redken Global Colour Creative Director Josh Wood who co-ordinated each model’s hair with the fabric she was wearing.
He used a combination of different professional products to achieve a multi-dimensional effect giving the impression of several colours artfully meshed together. Redken Shades EQ Pastels and Redken City Beats in peaches, pinks and greens were the heroes for blondes. Redken Color Gels Lacquers and Redken Shades EQ Reds packed pigment and shine into those with red and black locks.
The eyes were an equally multi-coloured affair. Steal the look with Marc Jacobs Beauty Eye-Conic Multi-Finish Eyeshadow Palettes, £40, anchored with a dark shade of Marc Jacobs Highliner Gel Eye Crayon, £20, complete with a micro flick.
90s Kate Moss vibes - complete with a trio of tousled hair, creamy nude lips and kohl-rimmed eyes - were served up at Longchamp.
“Every brand has a personality, and to me, Longchamp is very French, rich, and cool, with a touch of individuality. This look is all about bringing out the best hair each girl has. I’m slightly blowing their hair out with a tiny bit of Redken Satinwear 04, £19.55, to seal the cuticle, then I’m allowing it to dry on its own to look effortlessly chic,” explained Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau.
“I’m using very light products at this show to keep the look slightly unfinished – if needed, I can always add more, but it’s harder to take product away if you use too much. We’ve also braided a few of the models to give them character,” added Palau who also used a few drops of Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry Oil, £34.90, throughout the mid-lengths and ends to tame flyaways and break up the texture for a suitably Mossy edge.
Zingy pink was the order of the day at the Rodarte show (pictured) where the eyeshadow was paired with dozens of matching roses piled high on top of the head.
“The makeup look this season is inspired by modern art with strong vibrant colors and abstract shapes,”said James Kaliardos who conjured up the look using NARS Cosmetics. NARS Impassioned Blush, Gaiety Blush, Desire Blush and Mata Hari Blush, £24 each, were swept high over the cheeks in shades to complement the models’ skin tones.
That was followed with a co-ordinating NARS Single Eyeshadow in Domination, Baby Jane or Douro, £16 each, with a vibrant pout using NARS Jungle Red Lip Liner, £18, or NARS Don’t Stop Powermatte Lip Pigment, £23.
For their achingly beautiful tresses, stylist Odile Gilbert worked with flower designer Joseph Free combining fresh blooms with the designer’s signature metal accessories. The result? Classic beauty with a drop of sass.
The model line-up at the Tom Ford show was as jaw-dropping as the make-up the girls sported. Think Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber (pictured) and Joan Smalls. At first glance, it was a whole lot of smouldering goodness - no wonder Ford called it his “most sensual” look in several years.
But take a closer look and you’ll spot the glistening metallic liner at the inner corners of the eyes, too. The perfect way to dial up your classic smoky eye, make-up artist Diane Kendal used a staggering ten different products from cream shadows to power shadows and liner, resulting in a multi-dimensional effect that was far from flat. Tom Ford Cream Colour for Eyes in Sphinx, £30 - a golden sheen-giver - was a particular star. For an extra lustrous glaze, Kendal finished with a smudge of Smith’s Rosebud Lip Salve, £10, on lids.
’Blink and you’ll miss it’ detailing also appeared on the Anna Sui runway, this time in the form of mermaid-worthy holographic accents. Make-up legend Pat McGrath was behind it. She reached for her Pat McGrath Labs Mothership V: Bronze Seduction Palette (now sold out) gilding eyes with a prism of gold, pearl and green hues.
She topped a taupe base with the palette’s green-toned VR Fire Opal and Astral Lunar Gold (a white gold), focusing on the centre of the lid. Then McGrath added a dash of Astral Lunar Gold to the Cupid’s bow, too. Her kit of choice has since cleared the shelves but Stila Magnificent Metals Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow Duo Chrome Shades, £24 each, have similar pearlescent powers.
Describing the style as “modern rockabilly,” R+Co founder Garren pulled half each model’s hair into a high messy bun, injecting texture with R+Co Waterfall Moisture and Shine Lotion, £25 and R+Co Motorcycle Flexible Gel, £23.
’Baby Barbies in Texas.’ That was the inspiration over at the Brandon Maxwell show where models looked as cool as they did radiant. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux dreamed up the look starting with MAC Studio Waterweight SPF 30 Foundation, £28, that was applied with hands for a real-skin effect, and MAC Powder Blush in Pinch O’ Peach and Pink Swoon, £19.50 each, that added a flush.
It served as the perfect place to showcase a new launch, too. MAC Hyper Real Glow Palette in Shimmy Peach, £35 (out in February) gave an extra healthy glow. The lips were ultra-glossy - just as you’d expect from a look that’s billed ‘Barbie.’ That was down to MAC Cremesheen Glass in Pagoda, £18.
And for that fashion week make-up mainstay - the hint of shimmer at the inner corners of the eyes? Models had MAC Iridescent Powder/Loose in Silver Dusk, £25.50 - one of Pecheux’s favourite products - to thank.
No Texan Barbie’s complete without a big blow-dry. Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray, £27, Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer, £299,99, and a round brush were used to create that mega lift. If you’re pushed for time, flipping your parting to the other side will give a speedy volume hit, too.
Oscar de la Renta
Who’d have thought switching black liner for plum could deliver this much of a cool-over? Make-up maestro Tom Pecheux did just that backstage at Oscar de la Renta, gliding MAC Kajal Crayon in Cocoa Spice, £17, along the bottom lashline and the darker MAC Kajal Crayon in Flourish Me Beautiful, £17, along the top. Bonus: purple liner will make green eyes, like Bella’s, totally mesmerising.
That same new highlighter - MAC Hyper Real Glow Palette in Shimmy Peach, £35 (out February), added luminous warmth to the cheeks. A deep peach or nude satin lip is the perfect pairing for an amethyst eye. MAC Powder Kiss Lipstick in Impulsive, £17, was Pecheux’s go-to.