Organics have spread from the grocery aisle to our beauty cabinets, finds Joanna McGarry
When an 8am barre class followed by smashed avocado on chia toast has more appeal than a hungover fry-up, you know you’ve got the healthy-eating bug. And that’s no bad thing. Minus the oft-maligned terminology (wellness warriors, clean eating), all that’s left is a commitment to eating and living well. Now we’re so clued up about what we eat, it’s a natural extension that we’re subjecting our beauty products to the same forensic examination.
The beauty industry has responded to this demand. “The obsession with detoxification and wellness is fuelling demand for stripped-back, ‘clean’ ingredients,” says Victoria Buchanan, beauty trends analyst at The Future Laboratory. “Consumers are more knowledgeable about possible irritations caused by synthetics and preservatives. They’re reading labels more carefully, a habit picked up from the grocery aisle.” Global demand for organic and natural personal care products is expected to reach $13.2billion by next year, and a recent report noted that ‘natural’ brands now represent the largest combined share of prestige skincare sales – but navigating this world remains a complicated matter.
Just like our edited food shop (label reading ahoy), we’re going chemical-free. The most commonly found are parabens (preservatives) and phthalates (emulsifiers), which scientists have labelled ‘endocrine disrupting chemicals’, or EDCs. They interfere with hormonal balance and, according to the World Health Organization, could lead to impaired reproductive function and increased rates of breast cancer. A recent University of California study revealed that women who avoided certain formulations saw a significant drop in EDC levels in the body. Still, for every piece of research that points to the dangers of EDCs, there’s a study purporting to their relative safety. And when you consider that lavender and citrus oils can cause skin inflammation, it’s clear natural isn’t the answer for everyone.
The other concern is how far a beauty product can penetrate the skin – a hugely contested aspect of skincare science. “We know now that the absorption rate of the skin is far higher than people thought,” explains Johannes Stellmann, CEO of Dr Hauschka. But absorption rates do vary. Studies have shown the face to be up to seven times more penetrable than other body surfaces due to its thinner, more porous skin. So going ‘mono-ganic’ (using organic formulas on a particular ‘zone’, ie face or hair) is becoming popular. “Haircare is the first thing to look at,” says Alexia Inge, founder of Cult Beauty. “It’s much easier for ingredients to absorb through your scalp than the rest of your body.”
So how do we know if a product is truly organic? Technically, we don’t (sorry). Last year, the European Commission launched the world’s first system for classifying and banning EDCs to widespread criticism due to insufficient research. So, sadly, the burden rests on consumers: “There are no legal standards for organic beauty, unlike food or drink, where strict rules are in place,” explains Lauren Bartley, from the Soil Association. “So a brand can call itself ‘organic’, even if it uses a small percentage of certified organic ingredients.” Instead, she says, look for an official logo. Products with a Soil Association or Ecocert badge will have undergone rigorous testing. “For a beauty product to be labelled ‘organic’ in the product name, according to Soil Association guidelines, 95% of its ingredients must be certified organic – grown without chemicals or harmful pesticides.” Thanks to improved formulas, contemporary organics really deliver. Over the page, you’ll find our ultimate organics edit, the products that truly work. They’re too good to miss
Your organic beauty shopping list
The ultimate in certified-organic skincare heroes that perfectly fuse science with nature
The cleanser: Evolve Gentle Cleansing Melt
An acorn-sized amount of this gel dissolves grime in record time while vitamin A and baobab extract soothe any irritated, inflamed patches.
The body lotion: LA-EVA Roseum Lotion
Due to the large area that body lotion is applied to, it’s worth spending money on a natural formula. This one softens dry limbs with a lingering scent of citrus.
The face mask: Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask
This Kiwi brand has built up a global following. The mask’s carrot seed, avocado oil and manuka honey soothe inflamed skin and decongest pores.
The face cream: Weleda Skin Food
Victoria Beckham swears by it and one cream is sold every 30 seconds. Chamomile, calendula and rosemary extract nourish and hydrate skin. A superb make-up primer, too.
The conditioner: John Masters Organics Citrus & Neroli Detangler
This cream conditions as it detangles. Essential oils and soy proteins soften even coarse hair for mirror-like shine.
The shampoo: Odylique Gentle Herb Shampoo
The first shampoo to be Soil Association-approved, this formula is packed with organic and herbal ingredients to clean and nourish the scalp.
The hand soap: L:A Bruket Hand & Body Wash
Carrying the international organic certification, NaTrue, this Swedish brand’s handwash is non-sticky, with the scent of freshly cut flowers.
The exfoliator: Eminence Stone Crop Oxygenating Fizzofoliant
Organic, biodynamic and cruelty-free – with micro-greens, rice flour and adzuki powder.
Main Image: Savs/Unsplash