As we bid adieu to Fashion Month, we can say that the best beauty looks were left until last. Paris saw a return to hair quaffed to ‘80s perfection, lips painted in powerful berry shades and a shadow resurgence that was impossible to ignore.
In keeping with runway tradition, the most fascinating beauty trends were not necessarily the most wearable. And while you could argue that a Balmain golden lip accessory and Westwood’s crisp packet hair adornments are better left on the catwalk, one thing’s for sure: Paris threw out the beauty rule book.
These are our pick of the beauty looks to try for a hint of French rebellion…
Words: Annie Davies
Bitten berry lip
In Paris if it wasn’t a berry lip, it was nothing at all – think freshly picked shades of cherry red and raspberry pink. The versatility of pinky-red bursts is the best part, you can go high-impact ‘80s power pout or a press in a youthful stain - there is a shade to suit everyone.
Here’s how to go about the berry...
Picking your perfect berry lip can be difficult thanks to an abundance of shades, textures and finishes.
At Valentino, Pat McGrath chose a satin Morello cherry shade and patted this into the lip using her index finger - the shape of your finger hugs the lips to create perfect application. To recreate, try NARS Audacious Lipstick in Shirley (£25).
An undefined, just-bitten stain washed over the lips at Paskal. For this, leave the lip liner to one side – you want this to look undone. Blot in The Body Shop Colour Crush Lipstick in Redhot Raspberry (£10) using just the lipstick bullet and avoid a swiping motion for that just-kissed feel.
Keep your base sheer and clean with brows brushed into place.
A shiny redcurrant lip is not one to get stuck in the wind with – we’ve been there – but we do love a brazen power lip.
Karim Rahman worked for L’Oreal Paris to create this bold hi-gloss lip using their new Infallible Lip Paints. Swipe the shade Red Fiction along the lips and top off with a glassy gloss.
Shadow is back
We saw negative space decoration in daring shades of acid green and Crayola blue, while haphazard kohl sketchings and serious lower lash underlining meant eyes became the true beauty statement at PFW.
Val Garland kept the base barely there and concentrated on the eye detail, “I used coloured crayon shades in pencils, shadows, pigment and neons, taking an elliptical shape eye or a graphic smoky.”
If you’re colour-shy try a bold liquid liner across the upper lash line. A pillar-box red or royal blue shade will gives a nod to the trend.
Tom Pecheux created a heavy metal eye in keeping with the Nirvana runway opener – think heavy metal rock star and you’ve got it.
Pecheux took MAC Fluidline Gel in Blacktrack (£16) across the whole lid areas and underneath the eye, stretching right from the tear duct past the out corners. With a dampened brush he the pressed MAC Pigment in Copper (£16) over the inner corner of the lid and MAC Pigment in Platinum (£16) in a fine line running along the outer half of the lower lash line.
YSL made ‘I’ve just woken up with last night’s make-up on’ chic. Now we don’t advise sleeping in your make-up (though we’ve all been there) but refined smudged kohl we do. To create this eye look, you need one product only: mascara. Tom Pecheux used his fingers to swipe YSL Beaute Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils The Shock (£23) from the outer corner of the eye inwards. Touch up any unruly black smears with a dab of concealer and a Q-tip.
The low pony
The lowly slung ponytail is probably the simplest, most chic hairstyle going and Paris we thank you. This time the lower the better. It needs to sit right at the very nape or be tied with a singular black tie midway down the lengths.
Backstage, hairstylists used an assortment of smoothing crèmes, high shine serums and a good old dose of hairspray to create either an effortless ‘I’ve just tied this back’ vibe or structure well maintained power ponytails. Here’s how to make the low ponytail work for you.
Taking inspiration from the ‘80s, James Pecis squared off the hair with a deep side parting then dropped it down into a low ponytail.
“Preparation is key and a lot of Elnett hairspray” says Pecis. Spray mousse was dried into the hair then brushed backwards into place, securing with a black hair tie. Leave the front section to pop up and over – think small cowlick.
The reference at Rochas was equestrian meets aristocrat – a well put-together women. Hairstylist Paul Hanlon took the hair back into a low pony and looped it back onto itself, very much like a dressage horse. He even placed a fine net around it to keep in all in place and fretting a black bow high up in the models heads for that added refinement.
The casual Acne ponytail comes in two forms - worn with ties extremely low down the lengths, or tucked into a chunky scarf to go from pony to asymmetric bob.
Eugene Souleiman squashed EIMI Sugar Lift into the roots to add guts to the hair with a matte finish, then pulled back into a ponytail, pulling out some pieces to keep a rounded shape.