Fashion Week

London Fashion Week insider blog - from frow to backstage and everything inbetween

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Stylist Team
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Stylist's fashion and beauty teams are posting updates from the shows, frows and parties at London Fashion Week...

FIVE MINUTES WITH ROKSANDA ILINCIC

The A-listers' favourite designer collaborated with Toni & Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe for her LFW show, so Stylist's beauty assistant Shannon Peter grabbed five minutes to chat all things hair, beauty and Fashion Week...

Where did you get the inspiration for this season's collection?

I was inspired by modern ballet and everything it embodies, from the emotions of the dancers to the intimacy of the costume design and the striking stage sets. In particular, I looked at dances and choreography by Anna Sokolow, photographs by Barbara Morgan and sets designed by Isamu Noguchi.

How did that influence the hair and make-up for your show? What was the brief?

Hair and make-up is a huge part of the overall look, so I am very involved in all those aspects of my show. The inspiration was very ethereal. The hair was undone, with just a small element of texture and frizz in the front. For make-up, there were two looks: one that incorporated grey and skin-tone eyeshadow and a second that used punchy blue colours taken from the collection palette.

How would you describe your own beauty routine?

My own beauty routine is quite minimal. I usually prefer a very natural look with a strong red lip. My hair is quite fine so I use a 3D Volumiser by Toni & Guy to add some texture.

What's your approach to beauty?

I have a signature beauty look that I stick with now. When I was younger I used to experiment a lot but now I've found what works for me.

What is the one beauty product you can't live without and why? 

Red lipstick. Simply, it has the power to brighten your day.

VICTORIA BY VICTORIA BECKHAM

The images from Victoria Beckham's lookbook have landed - and they star a chicken.

She took inspiration from the family's recent trip to Marrakesh for David's 40th to create the folksy collection, which is geared towards a younger audience.

The designer said: “I’m really excited by the direction the Victoria, Victoria Beckham line is taking - incorporating the denim, it encapsulates everything I envisage the VVB girl to be and embraces the life that she lives. Here I truly believe there is an outfit for every occasion or situation she might find herself in!”

GLITTERBOMBING AT ASHISH

Take some glue and glitter and go to town on an old T-shirt to get the Ashish look...

*SHANNON RECREATES THE ROKSANDA LOOK*

Beauty assistant Shannon Peter put the soft crimped look at Roksanda to the test. Watch her fast-fingered plaiting in a tutorial on how to recreate the dual-textured waves here

CLARKS X CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Christopher Raeburn has teamed up with Clarks for spring/summer 16. The Borneo-themed collection hit the catwalk at his show on Tuesday and will be available from January. We'll be looking out for the Salek Sun sandal:

ANYA HINDMARCH

British high street stalwarts Boots, Mothercare Nationwide and John Lewis are the inspiration behind Anya Hindmarch's latest collection.

MODELS OFF DUTY

Spotted outside the shows - Binx Walton giving us a lesson in laid-back dressing. Note the laddered tights and mismatching socks.

See more beautifully dressed people at London Fashion Week here.

*FIONA'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM ASHLEY WILLIAMS*

Suffer from bitchy resting face? You're in fashion. 'Bad mood' was celebrated on badges and T-shirts at Ashley Williams and required a strong beauty look. For hair, that's classic grunge mixed with jewelled hair accessories for a modern, sophisticated take on punk.

Hair guru Mark Hampton, Toni & Guy's global ambassador who created the look, explained, 'its all about the deep side parting, making hair fall heavier on one side for a dramatic look'.

Here's how to get the look:

  • Blow dry smooth
  • Tong sections randomly to create a loose kink
  • Apply Toni & Guy Shine Gloss Serum to the ends of the hair, before teasing with fingers for a dishevelled shine

The stripes were mirrored on the WAH London nails, with a diamanté on the pinky. 

And those ultra-thin brows? The models' natural brows were stuck down then washed out with concealer, before a brow pencil was used to draw them in above the brow bone. A backlash against bushy.

GILES

A supermodel bonanza at Giles, with Irina Shayk, Alek Wek, Georgia May Jagger, Eva Herzigova, Lily Donaldson, Edie Campbell, Grace Bol, Erin O'Connor...the list goes on and on.

It was a star line-up worthy of the incredibly theatrical collection.

PETER PILOTTO

Desert safari meets romantic Med at Peter Pilotto, where lighweight dresses were tiered and frilled in soft, muted pastels. The label also unveiled its first ever shoe collection.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

A wonderful patchwork of acid brights presented in the expansive setting of the Walkie Talkie's Sky Garden, Kane's show was inspired by "creation coming from destruction." 

Branded cable ties sprung from necks, wrists and ponytails and fringes were micro mini.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Eighties ballad legend Alison Moyet, accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra, serenaded the Burberry show, where Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and Cara Delevingne cosied up on the front row. Skin-exposing dresses featured cut-out detailing and swathes of sheer materials, while the monogrammed backpack is set to become the new blanket cape.

MORE: See the A-list guests at Burberry's show, including Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and Naomie Harris

BURBERRY'S CHOSEN 12

'A very honest form of beauty' is how Wendy Rowe described the make-up look backstage at Burberry.

Skin was finished and cheekbones were subtly exaggerated using the brand's new contour pens. For some girls it was a nude lip that finished the look but for a chosen 12, oxblood red was the colour of choice.

Wendy shared her expert tips for easy application: 'Just smudge the stick over your lips and rub them together to fill in the gaps' - no precise application required. She then blurred the edges of the lips using a cotton bud, which she also explained is a great way to make lips appear fuller.

ERDEM

Erdem returned to his signature floral prints with aplomb for his 10th anniversary spring/summer 16 collection. Shown at the majestic King's Cross Theatre and watched by fans including Alexa Chung and Mollie King, the collection was about the prairie girl who's grown-up. Ruffles, lace and embroidery were intricate, demure and crying out for the likes of Keira Knightley and Emma Stone to give them a red carpet spin. Fancy a closer look? The label recently opened its first London store on Mayfair's Audley Street.

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

Celebrating 10 years in the business with Samantha Cameron sat on her frow, Roksanda Ilincic put on quite a show.

Gorgeous splashes of acid lemon yellow, tangerine and pastel blue appeared on coats and butter soft leather dresses that moved like silk. Poet sleeves gave the collection a soft, romantic feel.

The beauty look was inspired. Toni & Guy's Mark Hampton put gentle crimps through just the first few strands of hair for a dishevelled dual-texture, while eyes were gently framed in a smudged turquoise for a fresh, ethereal vibe.

HILL & FRIENDS

One of Sunday's most talked-about events was the launch of Hill & Friends, the bag label set up by Mulberry's ex-creative director Emma Hill and ex-brand director Georgia Fendley, who both brought about the likes of the Alexa and the Bayswater.

The bags were shown off in the opulent surroundings of Claridges over a pink-themed breakfast - and we're not just talking about the champagne, even the hardboiled eggs were painted pink.

This set the tone for the optimistic collection, with plenty of Elle Woods-worthy pieces, including a hot pink leopard print number. There were gold emoticon-style smiley face locks and one bag was even called a 'Happy Satchel'. Male models dressed as bell boys presented the creations. 

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

Spring has sprung at Maison Margiela and it's a grittier take than we've seen on other catwalks.

The youth-inspired collection was, in the label's own words, "exaggerated, awkward in parts." Models wore what looked like plastic bag materials and a glittery bumbag was recast as a bandeau top.

PRINGLE

Pyjama dressing, exposed shoulders, bias cuts - all the big spring/summer 16 trends were in place at Pringle.

PAUL SMITH

Eye-catching liquorice stick-like leather belts and bright sandals caught the eye at Paul Smith, as did the recurring Fashion Week theme of block colour tangerine - taking shape in voluminous coats and flowing bias cut dresses. Trousers were invitingly high-waisted and slouchy or super wide and cropped at the calf.

*FIONA'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL*

Slivers of pearlescent pigments, set with a gel and applied using a roller? It can only mean one thing. The Vivienne Westwood Red Label show has arrived.

Using shipwrecked beauties as the blueprint, the models' skin was dappled with iridescent Mac pigments and a coat of wet-look gel to resemble the inside of an oyster shell.

Meanwhile, Toni & Guy's global hair ambassador Mark Hampton and his backstage team worked in Sea Salt spray with a little Spray Mousse into the hair with their fingers, before pulling the crown into a half ponytail, twisting and pinning it into a loose knot.

Ethereal beauty at its best - and most surprising.

BURBERRY TEASES SS16 COLLECTION ON SNAPCHAT AT 7PM

If you can't wait until tomorrow to see Burberry's spring/summer 16 offering, the label is taking its first foray into the world of Snapchat tonight to tease the collection.

The "finishing touches" will be broadcast from Burberry's HQ at 7pm tonight, before the 1pm show at Kensington Gardens, which will feature a performance by Alison Moyet.

REGAL REBELS AT TOPSHOP UNIQUE

'Courtney Love meets Princess Margaret' was the unlikely fusion inspiring Topshop Unique's SS16 beauty look, created by the brand's make-up artist Hannah Murray.

How to recreate the look:

  • Apply a layer of matte red lipstick, blot then reapply
  • Ring eyes with black eyeliner, smudge
  • Apply Chameleon Eyes in Shuffle over the lids, working the orangey pink iridescent cream into the liner. Finish by adding a touch of vaseline on top
  • Apply mascara, if it touches the skin all the better for a lived in look
  • Treat skin to Air Cushion Skin Perfector
  • Finish with a touch of chalky pink blusher on the cheeks

Et voilà! Rebellious prettiness.

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

Silky, bias cut slip dresses, kimono coats and more bandage ties at Jonathan Saunders, where the Massive Attack soundtrack drove the '90s message home. A patchwork of '70s-inspired kaleidoscopic florals were teamed with retro, round belt buckles or dressing gown ties and the large candy stripes of previous shows appeared in multi-tonal asymmetric prints.

TRI-TONAL TANNING AT ISSA

Backstage at Issa, a dedicated tanning team followed a 'Tri-tonal' plan of action, with a 'shade and gleam' diagram taped on the wall illustrating how to achieve the sunkissed, dewy look sported by the models.

According to St Tropez's Jules Heptonstall, three levels of dimension best mimics a hydrated post-holiday glow. 

“Apply St Tropez's Gradual Tan (launching next year) all over to give skin a balmy and tinted finish,” she explained. “Then apply the Instant Tan to the inside of the legs for natural shading and Egyptian Magic on the shoulders to catch the light.”

MORE: Top tips for becoming a Fashion Editor

SOPHIA WEBSTER'S MYSTICAL MERMAIDS

Never one to shy away from making a spectacle, footwear queen Sophia Webster turned Covent Garden venue The Hospital Club into a Mermaid Launderette for her SS16 show.

Follow Benefit's Lisa Potter-Dixon to recreate mystical mermaid eyes:

  • Coat the eyelids and brows with Benefit's clear lip gloss
  • Use a small eyeshadow brush to pat iridescent glitter onto the inner corner of the eyes
  • Finish off with a coat of the They're Real blue mascara on the top lashes

Beach-inspired accessories at Sophia Webster

PRISTINE PREEN

Print played heavily at Preen and was shown off to perfection on the glassy backdrop of City Hall. Monochrome gingham - a favourite at Victoria Beckham's New York show - and muted florals showed up on intricately structured pieces. 

The flouncy frills that made a feature of sleeves and hems were mixed up with bandage straps and structured asymmetric hems. Lace was meshed with sturdy fabrics, while this season's body part du jour, the shoulder, was feted with peekaboo cut out detailing.

The shades were among our favourites so far...

VERSUS

The trainer vibe predominant on the SS16 runways was all but a memory at Versus, where Donatella Versace and creative director Anthony Vaccarello sent long-haired models teetering down a glossy tiled catwalk in slashed-to-the-thigh frocks, lashings of leather and deconstructed jacket playsuits. The Strypes played live as FKA Twigs, sat next to Donatella, watched from the frow.

As well as the more expected leopard print and sexy leathers, there were unfussy dark botanical prints and paint-splashed denim to appeal to its younger audience.

SOHO BAD GIRLS AT GARETH PUGH

Gareth Pugh said LFW's relocation to a Soho car park evoked "feelings of euphoria, of danger and of possibility."

His models, described as a "troupe of Soho Bad Girls" walked in stocking masks, starry-eyed shades and disco wigs on a shiny penny-covered runway.

As well as riffing off Soho's rock 'n roll history, it was Britain's seaside heritage that inspired Pugh's vibrant collection. The amusement arcade pennies lining the catwalk were reflected throughout the collection, including in a bronze corset dress with black rubber sleeves and a shimmery jumpsuit. There were also seaside-inspired candy-stripe gowns, superhero-esque waist capes and monochrome harlequin prints.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Always the most fun of LFW shows, spiky florals, humbug stripes and bright pink peplums were teamed with outlandish feathered boots at House of Holland. The catwalk extravaganza was watched by a front row including Alexa Chung, Nick Grimshaw and Daisy Lowe.

@chungalexa #houseofholland #HOHSS16 #LFW #VeCollabCatwalk

A photo posted by house_of_holland (@house_of_holland) on

CONTACTLESS GETS A MAKEOVER AT HOUSE OF HOLLAND

A gimmick we can get onboard with - a contactless ring that allows fashion purchases with the wave of the hand...

SIMONE ROCHA

Shown at the swanky Lancaster House, Simone Rocha's collection had a predominantly soft pink and white palette, but the romantic feel was offset by the liberal use of oversize pockets and strap detailing, the cross body effect across the chests of gowns and coats echoing JW Anderson's double bag effect.

We loved the swishy, caged skirts, complete with slouchy pockets.

ORLA KIELY GETS INTO THE SWING

The presentations are getting ever more creative...

JW ANDERSON

An ode to the '80s at JW Anderson, where sleeves were big and puffy, prints were squiggly and boobs were small.

The power-dressing era mingled surprisingly well with hints of medieval and sci-fi, while outsize cuffs and elasticated hems gave trousers a refreshed feel.

There was also a two-bags rule, which may be beneficial for balance - but won't help the one at the bank.

DEBENHAMS + WILLIAM BROOME =

STRONG SHAPES AT EMILIA WICKSTEAD

Blown-up sleeves, dramatic capes and billowing belt straps lent a dynamic edge to Emilia Wickstead's collection, with the soft sorbet shades that have been popping up across LFW shown off to full effect on a stark backdrop of pink and grey. Floral print was also a big deal - two-tone, full-length and utterly romantic.

REINVENTING FESTIVAL FASHION AT HUNTER ORIGINAL

It's 10 years since Kate Moss strutted through a rain-sodden Glastonbury in a pair of Hunter wellies and tiny denim hotpants, opening the eyes of the fashion-conscious festival-goer to the heritage brand.

Today Hunter Original's creative director Alasdhair Willis held a festival-inspired extravaganza, watched by his wife Stella McCartney, unlikely customer Anna Wintour and US actress Salma Hayek.

Glittery confetti took the place of rain as male and female models stomped down the runway in neon embellished rubber boots, sneakers and clogs. Along with footwear, there were lightweight, sorbet-coloured waterproofs and fringed skirts and capes.

NEW PRODUCT ALERT

One of the most exciting things about being backstage at LFW is being privvy to next year's beauty launches - and then telling everyone about them.

Backstage at Holly Fulton, James Read was putting his new Tantour (a term he has trademarked) through its paces. A palette of illuminator and bronzer, it's used to contour and the shadows will develop over four hours to leave a realistic but long-lasting contoured bone structure. One for the wish list.

Strategic swirls, ruffles and embroidered denim ruled the Holly Fulton runway...

*SHANNON'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM JULIEN MACDONALD*

The glam squad backstage at the Julien Macdonald show were all given the same reference: '90s supermodels shot by super photographer Peter Lindhbergh. We're talking Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen et al so that meant big glamour.

Val Garland created an ultra black smoky eye using L'Oreal Paris Color Riche Pure Colour Eyeshadow in Noir C'est Noir, deepened at the lash line with Super Line Smokissime. Shortly before the models hit the catwalk, she followed with a slick of clear gloss over the top for a shiny finish.

For hair, Syd Hayes was channelling Bond Girls emerging from the sea, with a wet, slicked back look. His top tip for achieving the look was to use a mixture of mousse and water, so it doesn't go crunchy.

St Tropez's Jules Heptonstall used the brand's not-yet-launched Luxe Oil Spray (which will be on the spray tan menu in salons next year) and finished with sweeps of the Luxe Oil over the top for an ultra bronzed sheen on the skin.

BACKSTAGE AT SIBLING

Syd Hayes was using winges (that's a fake fringe to you and I) cut short on the models at Sibling for a Jane Birkin vibe.

However, they're a bit disconcerting when you spot them laying around backstage...

Teamed with a simple black headband...

The gilded manicure...

It could be time to give crocheting a chance. 

Sibling cast aside notions of naff magazine patterns and dusty doilies with its spectacular pom pom number. The knitwear maestros showcased yet more leopard print and tribal prints, accessorised with PVC bags and sporty ribbed socks worn with pretty heels.

EUDON CHOI

Beautifully tailored candy colours and delicate layering swept down Eudon Choi's runway in the form of loose silhouettes with a twist.

There was a hint of the pyjama dressing we saw in NYC throughout the collection, with baggy, cape-sleeved shirts and PJ stripes across long, layered dresses and skirts. The one-shoulder tops we saw so much of in New York popped up again in soft pastels.

Mismatched shoes are surprisingly chic...

SPOTTED IN LONDON

VB is back in the capital following her triumphant New York Fashion Week show and showing off a surfer print coat from the collection.

J. JS LEE

Super sleek monochrome pieces with a mix of bold neon stripes and candy colours appeared at J.JS Lee.

GOLDEN EYED TRANSFORMERS AT FYODOR GOLAN

Transformers was the theme at a neon-heavy Fyodor Golan show, where we spotted one of our favourite jumpers so far...

Even the beauty had a fun, sci-fi touch with melted gold smudged above the models' eyelids...

BORA AKSU

A romantic riot of colour exploded onto Bora Aksu's runway, with the designer citing his childhood years growing up in Turkey as the driver.

The rich palette was emblazoned on intricate lace and silk tulle, while the NY floral print obsession popped up in matchy-matchy outfits with pretty Peter Pan collars and exposed underskirts.

These ultra feminine looks were offset by a delicate black flower tattoo - that was placed on the models' foreheads.

THE ONES TO WATCH SHOW

Four emerging designers, Leaf Xia, Typical Freaks, Anita Hirlekar and JS Shin were selected to showcase their creations.

We're bowled over by the fun fish and chips offering from Typical Freaks.

FASHION HAS A SNEAKER OBSESSION

Trainers, pumps, sneakers - whatever you want to call them, the fashion world is obsessed. Heels were all but banished at New York Fashion Week as the sports shoe was repurposed with tie dye, studs, leather and fringing for the catwalk, a reflection of the street style outside the shows.

It's at the stage that when adidas launches a new design in its Tubular line, there's a party. The likes of Stormzy, Kano and Example celebrated the release of the Tubular X.

Emerging club night queens CreamSodaGirlz gave them a spin:

And for sneakerheads who like their kicks sparkling:

GEOMETRIC PRINTS RULE AT JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA

ZANDRA RHODES

Zandra Rhodes opened London Fashion Week with vivid pink floaty designs, covered in plant motifs and topped with double visors.

FASHION LESSONS ON REGENT STREET

Offers, competitions and masterclasses are all taking place on Regent Street over Fashion Week.

TIME FOR THE SHOW

Sibling's signature leopard print has been emblazoned onto the straps of just 200 Baby-G watches for London Fashion Week.

The £150 timepiece will be available to buy from noon on Saturday, when the Sibling show starts, or from 26 September at Selfridges.

BEAUTY AND BITES AT SEVEN DIALS

LFW's move to Brewer Street has got nearby Covent Garden buzzing with fashion-themed activities - here are some of our favourites at Seven Dials:

• 5 minute makeovers at Caudalie
• Complimentary macarons and chocolates at Pierre Herme

• A Sartorial Selection questionnaire at Miller Harris to discover your perfect scent
• Audrey Hepburn afternoon tea package at the Covent Garden Hotel
• A special London Fashion Week cocktail at Tredwell’s

GRAB A GARETH PUGH BAG

Riffing off his patriotic AW15 show, Gareth Pugh's limited edition tote bag was designed in collaboration with sponsors Sunglass Hut and will be handed out to around 15,000 lucky showgoers, or from Sunglass Hut with purchases over £100.

SHOPPING EDITOR LUCY REBER'S LFW SURVIVAL KIT

Calming beauty products, a slug of gin and killer accessories for the shows and Toni & Guy's Cleanse Shampoo and Nourish Conditioner for fine hair before the shows.

Pictures: Taken with the Sony Xperia Z5. Additional images: Getty, Rex Features

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