Muss up your hair and don't spare the bronzer if you want to look like a Michael Kors girl.
Stylist Beauty Editor Sam Flowers is reporting on the SS15 beauty trends, insider gossip and expert tips from backstage at New York Fashion Week
TOTALLY ACHIEVABLE BEAUTY AT MICHAEL KORS
Ah, Michael Kors. With his breezy, bronzed beauty look he spoils us every season. This is one easy, achievable and most important - wearable - beauty look that we'll all want to wear come spring.
Courtesy of make-up artist Dick Page and hair stylist Orlando Pita, Kors gave the models a '50s reference to play with. Using Kors' own beauty line, Page went in heavy with bronzer in a shade called Glow, swirling it across the cheeks, slightly under the eye and across the bridge of the nose, "where the skin naturally catches the sun," followed by a dash of pinky blush on the tops of the cheeks and a patted on stain of lipgloss in Icon, "like your lips but better," he explained.
Meanwhile, Pita was proclaiming the virtues of Osis Dust It Mattifying Powder for giving hair grip and texture, "take all the shine away, massage the roots for some lift and loosely braid."
NO MORE PONYTAILS AND THE NEW DIP-DYE
I'm sensing a theme. I think the backstage hair and make-up artists are revolting (in the anarchistic sense, of course. They are all a bunch of lovely people).
It started at Badgley Mischka where hair stylist Peter Gray told me, "If I see another ponytail I'm going to vomit. I want to see some fun happening backstage." So he got on the phone to our very own UK colourists Josh Wood and Nicola Clarke and asked them what they've been doing in the salon to their very cool clientele. The result? Discreet wefts of pastel colour hidden underneath, offering flashes of colour as the girls flick their hair. Gray described the girl as a rich Park Avenue teenager who wanted to p**s off her parents. Think of an urban unicorn and you get the gist.
Over in make-up, Tom Pecheux was feeling equally as rebellious. The designers asked him for a bleached brow, "but I said over my dead body. That's not my kind of girl." Instead, he decided to give the brows an element of play using Mac Cream Eye Shadows with a dash of powder eye shadow in a matching colour, "I'm not a good student," he said, "I don't play by the rules. Instead of working out what shade went with what they were wearing I just asked the models to pick what colour they liked best."
This rebellious streak continued at Rodarte, manifesting itself as a multi-pierced brow , "she's polished but cool," explained make- up artist James Kaliardos. He used Nars to make the girls look "cool, young, rebellious," and after a beautiful dusting of gold and mauve powder shadows around the eyes and on cheeks, he added a dozen metallic rings to the models' brows, "it's meticulous," he explained, "one false move and it's back to the start."
Pastel or multi-rings? Which do you prefer?
Hair stylists are getting themselves in a bit of a twist in NYC as knots seem to have replaced the ponytail, ballerina bun and braid as the style of the season....
3.1 Phillip Lim
Paul Hanlon created a punky, sporty knot that looked "electric" by prepping hair with Tresemme Climate Control Mousse before blowdrying then adding some grip with Tresemme Dry Shampoo. After securing a high ponytail just below the crown, he tied three shoelace knots, securing it with pins. Much cooler than a ballerina bun.
Odille Gilbert took a three pronged approach to the wet-look, pool-side hair look first drenching it in Kerastase Femme Fatale Blowdry Spray and rough drying it in. Next, Kerastase Keratin Thermique Heat Protection Balm was applied before straightening and spritzing liberally with Kerastase Gloss Appeal Spray. After parting down the middle she grabbed two pieces of hair from under the ear and secured in a double knot at the back of the head.
Rag and Bone
Another knot courtesy of Paul Hanlon, this time it was a little looser and less frizzy. After smoothing hair out, blow drying with a spritz of Bumble and Bumble Thickening Spray, Hanlon decided that instead of a standard pony, he'd split the hair into two sections and secure it by tying a knot loosely at the bottom.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
He says the inspiration was Bjork goes to an '80s rave but who wants to bet super stylist Guido is an Orange is the New Black fan? (Crazy Eyes hair, anyone?!) He created these mini Mohawks in no time at all, "it's super easy," he told me, "when hairs dry spritz a load of Redken Wind Blown Texturising Spray in and then section into four ponies. Twist them down leaving the ends free and pin in place."
Easy hair returns to the catwalk. What do you think?
The futures looking bright for SS15. We've seen flashes of neon orange at Peter Som by make-up artist Yadim using Maybelline, Tom Pecheux's Lavender eyelids at Derek Lam and candy-coloured "negative space" nail art at Prabal Gurung...
NEW PRODUCT ALERT
Say hello to Nars Jubilation Dual-Intensity Blush (right) out spring 2015, a two-hue formula which was used on skin at 3.1 Phillip Lim to create the illusion of sunbeams bouncing off the cheeks. And who wouldn't want that?
THAKOON TREND ON TRIAL: From show to face in two hours
Just before 3pm I was backstage at Thakoon. As I watched make-up artist Diane Kendal use her magic on the models creating fresh-from-the-pool glossy, luminous brows and bronzed skin that glowed megawatts, I thought 'I want some of that'. My post-flight, jetlagged skin was crying out for some faux-poolside glow.
I got lucky.
Nars' lead make-up artist Anna Priadka gave me the Kendal treatment using the holy trinity of Nars glow givers - Laguna Illuminator, Copacobana Multiple and Triple X Gloss.
Backstage at Thakoon, make-up artist Diane Kendal created luminous, bronzed skin and dewy eyelids, while hairstylist Odile Gilbert's wet-look hair was knotted at the back:
Strong brows and side-parts at Victoria Beckham SS15
Make-up was kept low-key at VB's SS15 show today but every model had serious brows - thick, angular and with just a hint of colour brushed through.
Plait envy at Marissa Webb
Jeanie Syfu created intricate and imperfect braids and French plaits for Marissa Webb's models:
Plenty of TRESemmé mousse required...
Inside the Bowery Hotel
Bravo on the bathroom amenities:
VB turns tourist
There are no selfies, sadly, but Victoria Beckham has given us an insight into her day to day routine - and her music taste - in a series of phone pictures and videos from her trip to the Big Apple, ahead of showing her latest collection on Sunday.
She appears to be in the back of a car (probably not a yellow cab) in this one:
Built-in strawberries - we like:
Here's our effort - a perfect NYC view from the set of our beauty shoot with make-up artist Gucci Westman, photographer Jamie Nelson and hairdresser Cash Lawless.
How will you be wearing your eyeliner next season? Will culottes make another appearance on the catwalk? What do models dine on backstage? Stylist's fashion and beauty teams will have the answers to these questions and more at Stylist.co.uk/fashion-week as they report live from the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
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