Stylist's Executive Fashion Editor Kitty McGee and Shopping Editor Lucy Reber are reporting on the SS15 trends at New Fashion Week - keep track of their updates here.
THURSDAY 11 SEPTEMBER
MARC JACOBS: Military Barbie meets Wizard of Oz
Marc Jacobs closed NYFW in his signature, spectacular style last night with an inspired show that involved girls including Kendall Jenner, Joan Smalls and Edie Campbell circling a huge Barbie pink house built in the middle of the set at Jacobs usual venue the Park Avenue Armoury.
The clothes were military inspired, outsized pockets and button-adorned dresses and separates in various shades of khaki, cream and navy. On their feet models wore clog-type slides or velvet Mary Janes with glitter heels, the latter riffing off the Wizard of Oz. Jacobs' magical world is often the highlight of NYFW and this season was no different. On to LFW!
CALVIN KLEIN: A label in its element
The paired back utilitarian aesthetic we have been seeing throughout the shows in NYC was present and correct at Calvin Klein.
The label, whose founder was the one of the original masters of '90s minimalism, is the perfect one to embrace this restrained trend.
The colour palette was comprised of navy, black, white and a dash of ox-blood red. There were also muted metallics in silver, gun metal and deep marine blue. But these iridescent hues were the only adornment to the otherwise pure designs. The girls themselves looked simple with slicked back hair, brushed up brows and a soft lip.
Proportion and layering was key. Sleeveless tunics of varied lengths were layered over longer chiffon skirts. Everything was collarless. Leather tailoring was also very much in evidence, making up coats, jackets and dresses.
It was a beautiful show, with a clear vision and aesthetic. And sitting front and centre casting her practised fashion eye over proceedings? Sarah Jessica Parker herself, surely a positive style omen.
WEDNESDAY 10 SEPTEMBER
PROENZA SCHOULER: S115 with an autumn feel
The much anticipated Proenza show did not disappoint. Putting a whole new spin on summer dressing.
There was not a denim short or flippy summer dress in sight, these clothes were strong and dynamic. Leather was used in a variety of guises - perforated hooded jackets, slim line shirts, dirndl skirts and shift-style dresses were all tailored in it. As well as leather there were knits - crocheted dresses and skirts in black and slate which had more of the city than the Rivera you might expect.
With the monochrome colour mix that has followed us through fashion week there was also colour proper. Forest greens, tomato red and burgundy ruled alongside a plethora of reptile print.
It was a slick show: smart and buttoned up. With the summer knee boots that were paired with some looks, it also had more than a touch of autumn about it. But it was the craftsmanship and creativity that stood out above all things. The final looks of woven silk with tasselled skirts took our breath away. So we waited for the models to come out en masse to take their final turn, but we could have waited all night, they didn't come... Leaving us wanting more.
HUGO BOSS: Structured, modern, utilitarian
Jason Wu presented his second collection for BOSS Womenswear today on the 54th floor of the World Trade Center. The silhouettes were a mix of utilitarian and feminine but both were linear and both felt very modern.
The layered tulle and organza pieces made for very pretty eveningwear - lemon, white and mint for the braver girls and equally as beautiful black for the less daring. The gladiator sandals were slick, especially when paired with the structured leather mini skirts and matching cropped jackets made for a strong and linear silhouette, giving a clear utilitarian feel, one of the major SS15 trends we've seen emerging.
TUESDAY 9 SEPTEMBER
MARC BY MARC JACOBS: New World System
Excitement was high surrounding the Marc by Marc show. The second offering from the brand, since dream team Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier came on board.
Walking into the venue at Pier 94 was like walking into a rave. It was dark, very dark with pumping music and a giant multicoloured triangular light display. So far, so cool.
And so came the girls. Neo punks with top knot Mohicans, marching out in chunky rubber-soled boots.
Almost-pretty polka dot looks, long-line pencil skirts and crop tops were were styled over PVC leggings and tops, toughening them right up. Closer reading of the show notes revealed that the polka dots themselves were plastic too.
Next up was more utilitarian fare - a jumpsuit, rucksacks, straps and parkas. Outsized white shirts and t-shirts declaring 'New World System,' followed by punchy block colour looks in fuschia, turquoise and buttercup.
But most exciting to see were the reinvented sweaters, tees and deconstructed dresses with layers and panelling combining bodices, with grey marl jersey and pleated tiered skirts. Party dresses to have a good time in.
Marc Jacobs himself was front and centre at the show - leaping up to hug the girls on their catwalk turn. Success x 2!
TORY BURCH: A breath of fresh air
The first show of Tuesday was a breath of spring air. Tribal prints, raffia like trims and long line tube skirts came together to make up Tory Burch's wearable collection.
Mustard hues, sat alongside shades of blue and monochrome. Interesting use of knits were in evidence with knitted two pieces and long line tops, the favourite a simple tank and midi skirt in the same check as an outsized laundry bag. Accessories were also key with high heeled mules, sliders and waist belts all being used to style. Another nice addition were the simple desert boots which added a masculine touch to a characteristically feminine show.
J-CREW: Just what we want
Jenna Lyons and Tom Mora have it down to a tee - they expertly pre-empt what the cool girls (and boys) of the US - or rather, the world - want to wear season on season. Jenna's style is so visible in every collection, from the aesthetic right though to the styling. The collection nods to so many of the seasonal trends with just enough zest to be different and aspirational but not enough to be scary. We had no idea that we wanted to wear knitted tube skirts with an oversized shirt and a grey hooded park or matching chambray surf shorts and blouses... until now.
MONDAY 8 SEPTEMBER
TOMMY HILFIGER Go big or go home
Tommy Hilfiger's epic show this morning tapped into our obsession for festivals with in an homage to Glastonbury. True to the show theme, rock stars sons and daughters played a big part in the show, Otis Ferry's son Isaac opened the show on the drums while Georgia May Jagger was first out on to the runway and Ella Richards also walked in the show.
The vintage rock style clothes channeled the late '60s with tailoring, flares, lurex scarves and peaked caps. Hilfiger's signature wearable separates were interwoven with hero pieces including sparkly, ombre shift dresses and even more dreamy were the star encrusted, full length, caped chiffon gowns. The ankle boots and faux fur coats were also highlights.
SBTRKT - New Dorp. New York - was sampled at VB and DKNY on Sunday and again at MILLY today, potentially the soundtrack of the season. Watch this space.
Spotted! Anna Wintour dashing into TH
MULBERRY ♥ CARA
We swung by the Mulberry party to launch their collaboration with Cara Delevingne in NYC. Atlanta de Cadenet was on the decks and Amber le Bon, Bip Ling, Ella Richards and Cara herself were all in attendance.
Champagne and cocktails were served in chic retro dishes by boys wearing Mulberry hearts Cara t-shirts and everyone was digging into mini burgers. On departure the perfect party bags were handed out - cotton Cara totes. Heaven.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM: Imperfect perfection
Leonard Cohen's quote "Forget your perfect offering. There is a crack in everything, that's how the light gets in." Was the first thing to read on Phillip Lim's show notes this afternoon. From a designer who is universally perceived as pretty perfect, it was a refreshing and uplifting frame of mind to be in as the show began in a bright white warehouse space.
Although what was to follow was in fact a near to a perfect offering. The designer's SS15 was an intriguing mix of sports inspiration, intricate tailoring and feminine touches. Streamlined shorts suits, basket weave finishes, multi-panelled dresses with peplum hems, textured brocades, flippy chiffon skirts and karate belt style trims all sat alongside each other to make up a deceptively simple show that felt breezy and fresh.
RAG & BONE: Chambray days
There was a relaxed party vibe as we waited for the start of the Rag & Bone show in the all white warehouse on West 33rd street.
With Thom Yorke and Nigel Godrich blaring from the speakers, the models stalked out wearing a range of chambray looks - long line blazers, sleeveless jackets and outsized parkas all in lightweight denim. The use of this traditional outdoors work-wear fabric was an indication of things to come with natural fibres, shades of cream, khaki and beige and a pared-back aesthetic the order of the day.
RALPH LAUREN: Fashion magic
A truly incredible 3D show spectacular hailed RL's double whammy of a new Polo collection and launch of the first ever Polo flagship store on Fifth Avenue.
New York Fashion Week SS15 has been a source of digital innovation; Versus presented its first shoppable runway, while Tommy Hilfiger's new 'Social Concierge' service has been instantly delivering editors any digital assets they could think to request at the click of a button (or rather in response to a tweet or email).
All sounding practical and useful so far - but not blowing your mind, right? Well prepared to be blown away. Ralph Lauren presented its new Polo collection via a water-screen projection that towered above the lake in Central Park. The fusion of fashion, art and technology was created using light, projected onto a huge fountain of water from the lake to create a truly stunning 4D spectacle.
Editors watched on in amazement as the final scene saw Mr Lauren himself take a bow, as we would expect at a typical fashion show. The event also celebrated the grand opening of the first ever Polo flagship store on Fifth Avenue.
See for yourself (runway action kicks in at 0.30)
SUNDAY 7 SEPTEMBER
DKNY: To the street
Passing a model outside back stage wearing a doo-rag to protect her kiss curls, was the first clue that this DKNY show was going to be an homage to the street. The inspiration for the show? New York.
The clothes that followed were as eclectic, vibrant and striking as the city itself. With the label playing with proportion, layering and intense embellishment. It was at turns, sporty, elegant and a little bit mad - which we loved.
We saw more nods to SS15's leading trend - urban sportswear. The colour palette included fresh and playful colour clashes, our favourite being lemon, turquoise, burgundy and nude.
Technical fabrics and sheer mesh layering worked well on boxy tops and full skirts while the standout accessories were the satchel and the graphic trainers. Looks like flats are here to stay.
As The White Stripes' Seven Nation Army blared out for the finale, the girls marched out two by two like members of a special city tribe. Bravo Donna.
Spotted! Whoopie Goldberg and Jerzey Dean outside DVF
WATCH THE DKNY SHOW:
DVF: French femme fatale
DVF's glossy posse was out in force at her show at Spring Studios. As the sun streamed through the floor-to-ceiling windows models including Naomi Campbell, Kendal Jenner, Candice Swanepoel and Lily Donaldson glided down the runway.
The French femme fatale theme from yesterday's Altuzzara show continued. Opening with a throaty Parisian soundtrack, the models showcased various incarnations of gingham, cropped tops and slit-to-the-thigh skirts. The clothes were typically feminine in cut, with crop tops, full length maxis and full skirts all very much in evidence.
Naomi Campbell walked in the show:
The absolute star turn however was taken by Diane herself, who came out resplendent in an emerald green kaftan. Taking her own walk on the runway, waving, singing and dancing as she went, getting the whole audience on their feet... What a legend.
DVF takes a lap on the runway:
VERSUS VERSACE: Anthony Vaccarello's shoppable catwalk
Anthony Vaccarello was the latest emerging designer to take the helm at Versus. Showcasing signature Versace elements including print, leather and denim in a hybrid of high octane glamour and rock 'n' roll.
Also for the first time ever, the Anthony Vaccarello x Versus Versace show included the Versus' first truly shoppable catwalk on www.versusversace.com
What we're wearing
Comptoir des Cotonnierss kirt
Sophie Hulme bag
Ancient Greek sandals
Karen Millen bag
VICTORIA BECKHAM: Pared-back elegance
The highly-anticipated show bought us block colours of beige, monochrome and burgundy and refined, tailored shapes with utilitarian pockets and belted waists. See more: Victoria Beckham SS15 show
SATURDAY 6 SEPTEMBER
LACOSTE: White hot
Girls walked in technical, slightly outsized sportswear, as Missy Elliot's Oops, Oh My set the pace for the show. The vibe was all about mix and match, a nonchalant attitude and urban utility in a wearable array of separates - the majority of which appeared to be tied at the waist or over the shoulders thanks to a natty trick involving built-in fasteners.
Our favourite elements of the colour palette weren't the less unusual nautical red, yellow and blue tones, but the mixed deep purples, mint and grey and the interwoven all-white looks - also strong yesterday at Suno and today at Prabal Gurung and Coach.
The Street Style Pioneer:
We were utterly thrilled with our first star-struck moment of the season - spotting veteran street style snapper Bill Cunningham on the FROW at Lacoste.
In the documentary of his life Bill Cunningham New York - a fashion must-see - Anna Wintour declares "We all get dressed for Bill," yet the 85-year-old has a completely unassuming demeanour. Typically low key in a simple blue coat and trousers, he sat front row at Lacoste, but not before snapping a few pictures himself on arrival.
COACH: Pastel faux fur and magical creatures
Coach under Stuart Vevers' creative direction continues to evolve. It's the classic American brand as we have never seen it before.
The most intriguing new additions? Leopard print coats inspired by Patricia Arquette in True Romance. Shaggy, outsized pastel-hued faux fur coats and the addition of illustrated creatures. Created by artist Gary Baseman and adorning bags, leather tops and printed chiffon.
There are flashes of '70s styling throughout the collection with leather bombers, wide-legged trousers, drop waist chiffon dresses and low slung leather satchels. But the overwhelming feeling was of a free-spirited '90s skater girl in a shaggy faux fur coat, illustrated tee and leather mini.
Coach's new direction? We're sold.
PRABAL GURUNG: Chiffon charm
Prabal Gurung's show was an oasis of calm in a city of heat. With a soundtrack of haunting chants and pipes. All white looks, flowing whisps of chiffon and rolling mountain scene prints floated by counterbalanced by tougher sports-inspired looks. With an impressive cast of model faves including Binx Watson, Hanne Gaby Odiele and Sam Rollinson.
One of our favourite US brands is the chicly low key Tibi. Today's show did not disappoint with loosely tailored separates, culotte suits and Grecian tied dresses. Accessories were also key, with fringed sliders and high hats ala Pharrell in pastel-hued straw.
ALEXANDER WANG: Monochrome magic
Rihanna, Nicky Minaj and a very prompt Lauren Hutton joined editors at Pier 92 for the Alexander Wang show today. Music thumped throughout the venue as girls walked in monochrome tailoring, cropped jackets, tennis style dresses and skirts and Wangs signature tight, sporty dresses in neon tones.
The largely black and white collection was punctuated with primary colours for some of our favourite looks including woven mini dresses, skater skirts and cropped tops.
Sportswear was another huge trend today at Wang, Coach and Lacoste.
ALTUZARRA: Gallic Charmer
The Altuzarra show opened to the dulcet tones of a retro chanteuse. What followed was a ladylike procession of gingham skirt suits, shirt dresses and cotton blouses - all unbuttoned just so. Tougher stripes followed up, but still with the womanly aesthetic the designer is known for. Daisy Lowe sitting front row in an Altuzarra strapless dress, was the perfect person to showcase his feminine design style.
TRENDS: Monochrome Mania
L-R: Liberty Ross, Man Repeller aka Leandra Medine and Tank magazine's Caroline Issa
Monochrome was the only thing to be seen in on day one at NYFW. Monochrome looks at Alexander Wang and Tibi echoed what editors wore on the front rows. Effortless, trans-seasonal and perfectly on-point, our favourite trend from day one.
Friday 5 September - Stylist Fashion has landed in NYC
Straight to the stunning Nomad hotel to unpack and then on to drinks at the Ugg party in the Lincoln Centre - you know, to get us in the mood for our first full day of shows tomorrow.
Thursday 4 September - NYFW Prep
How will you be wearing your eyeliner next season? Will culottes make another appearance on the catwalk? What do models dine on backstage? Stylist's fashion and beauty teams will have the answers to these questions and more at Stylist.co.uk/fashion-week as they report live from the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris.