Stylist's Deputy Beauty Editor Samantha Flowers is blogging backstage from Milan Fashion Week. Check back daily to read her updates from the Spring/Summer 2013 shows.
Photos: Taken on HTC One S with instant image capture and Beats Audio™
Bye Milan, it's been fun. Next stop, Paris!
Missoni - Sunday 23rd
Steady yourselves for this. Milan Fashion Week ended on a high with this "cosmic-manga-cartoon-meets-boho-girl" look.
Lucia Pieroni created a punchy pink pout that looked like it had been drawn on with a neon felt tip pen.
The Joan and Terry show
Eugene flattened the roots using mousse and dried the ends out by dousing hair in Wella Ocean Spritz, his key product for the season.
It seems everyone enjoyed it as much as I did. Jourdan Dunn and new face Tsheca were on my flight home. Tscheca told me this was one of the most fun beauty looks she'd worn in Milan: "Missoni and Fendi, I love the bright colours."
What would you rather?
The Etro robe...
...or the Dolce and Gabbana gown?
I wonder if they get to keep them?
Dolce & Gabbana - Sunday 23rd
Dolce SS13 inspiration
It's a celebration of Sicilian summertime. Pat McGrath blended three different shades of lipstick from the new summer collection and patted onto the models lips for a rich, plump pout then swept a trio of blush high on the cheeks. If only that's how we looked after a day in the sun.
Marni - Sunday 23rd
It was a 5am start for the models at Marni so it wasn't surprising we caught a few of them having a nap backstage. Tom Pecheux on the other hand was buzzing with energy.
"I'm using a lot of makeup, but it looks like not much," he explained, "it's all about spending time massaging the skin to wake it up, bring out its inner glow." Using only cream textures, Tom blended taupe and apricot shades of shadows, lipsticks and highlighters around the face. "You don't see it but you feel it. The secret is in the massage, thé blending. Melt everything together."
That style that happens accidentally when you put your hair up at your desk, pull your jumper off and it falls out a bit. This is it. Paul Hanlon decreed that if you spend more than two minutes on this hair, you ruin it.
Tom's sweets of choice.
Pucci - Saturday 22nd
Such a beautiful backstage area
It was littered with Stylists fave models backstage - Cara, Joan, Jourdan, Magdelena, Kasia. You name it, she was there. For that reason Lisa Butcher knew she didn't need to do much in terms of makeup to turn them into, 'pure, zen-like angels from Japan'. The collection inspired Lisa to give a nod to Asian conceptual art, placing a structured white dot (I told you white was a big trend for SS13) in the centre of the lids. A smudge of eight hour cream over added a touch of sexiness that's inherent in the Pucci girl.
Luigi was also inspired by the orient, blowing hair straight, running the irons over and finishing with hand crafted Pucci hair accessories. We tried to blag one. We failed.
Oh hey Cara. We have to stop bumping into each other like this...
Check these babies out...#bagwatch
Joudans vintage inspired Chanel
A bit of Givenchy
Love this rucksack
A little bit of Louis Vuitton
I love a bit of personalisation
Pat McGrath makes her mark with a 'P'
Guido writes his name all over his kit
Jil Sander - Saturday 22nd
Easy breezy backstage. Pat McGrath was applying a touch of Max Factors new 3-in-1 foundation to the skin and powdering the tzone for a pure velvet finish.
Frankie Morello - Saturday 22nd
Check out Terry Barber's sci-fi army, "she's a modern day Barberella, just stepped out of her spaceship onto the streets of Milan."
Elongated eyeshapes in macs vibrant grape eyeshadow and blunt edged ponies of identical length.
Versace - Friday 21st
A tight ballerina bun and chocolate Smokey eye at Versace. How typically Italian. It kind of reminds me of.Olivia Palermo. Just saying
What Could Have Been
In the crazy world of fashion there are always last minute changes to the look. I always find it interesting finding out what could have been....
Up until lastnight the plan was for a frosted pink lip but when the girls put the clothes on it just didn't work and was replaced with Mac lipstick in Morange and tonnes of gloss.
Originally James Pecis planned on doing messy, undone hair but instead opted for a 'luxe wet look' finish.
Initially the skin was very sculpted with heavy brows until late lastnight when Lisa Butcher pared it all back and kept the focus on the lashes.
Iceberg - Friday 21st
What a difference a few hours makes! Sam McKnight, clearly happy the 33 girls at Moschino had all made it onto the catwalk with perfectly bouffed do's (each beehive took approx 45mins, times that by 33 models and you can probably imagine how stressy it was back there) had more time to chat to us at Iceberg.
Moving the hair on a few decades from the 60s to the 90s and referencing Helmut Lang esque sports couture, Sam parted the hair in three sections at the back then folded the two side sections over each other (as if you are starting a braid) and secured with elastic. This creates an enveloped detail at the back. Next loop the pony over, secure with another elastic and tuck the ends in. You should have a 'bow like' effect.
The Devil is in the Detail
Ever read about a sleek bun, glossy bun and a glazed bun and wondered what the difference is? It's all in the detail. "Take a closer look," prompts Sam McKnight, "if you miss a detail then you miss a very important trick. The detail is what makes us who we are. It can absolutely transform a look. As hairdressers we have to find a different way of doing a pony, a bun, a chignon that stops it from being boring and make it different to the norm."
Take note of Sams wise words; next time you pull your hair up into a ponytail, why not do something a bit different - change the part, fold the hair over at the base or simply add a grip to one side. That's what ill be doing.
Blumarine - Friday 21st
Who needs a makeup artis? Multi tasking models backstage at Blumarine.
Etro - Friday 21st
When Charlotte Tilbury touches your skin its like she sprinkles fairy dust on it. Here she talks through her 'handsome beauty' look for Etro...
Just Cavalli - Friday 21st
Two minutes with Cara Delevigne
Without a doubt Miss Cara Delevingne must be one of the busiest models this season. I must have seen her at practically every show from NYC-London-Paris. Annoyingly she still looks unbelievably fresh faced (while my skins seen better days) and bounced into Just Cavalli bright eyed despite already having done Moschino (whilst I'm on my second coffee of morning) sitting down in the makeup chair cracking jokes to everyone.
"I actually can't remember when I got her," she quipped, "could be two days ago, could be three I have no idea. The days are all blurring together." Laughing about how we've been following each other around tor three weeks Cara tried to work out which her favourite show had been so far. "I really like New York and hanging out there but I love London. The only thing is that its horrible being at home and not being able to see my friends and family."
Meet James Pecis, one of Stylists backstage faves. Here he talks us through the hair at Just Cavalli....
White, it's all white!
Milan is on it. In just two days its thrown more trends at us than we've had cappuccinos (today anyway)!
White seems to be emerging as a strong contender in the eye arena. In no less than half the shows this brightening shade has been used to awaken tired models eyes. Admittedly, this could potentially be the reason for its popularity now we're three weeks in but this morning Tom Pecheux also pointed out that,"white is chic yet fresh and always beautiful. It flatters every skintone and makes the eyes look bigger." Who wouldn't want that?
Moschino - Friday 21st
Tom Pecheux brought the 60s back with a Lana del Rey twist at 8am this morning. "I don't really like copying things directly from the past," he explained,"although sometimes its necessary but I like to add my touch to things, bring them up to date." Originally intended to be a frosty, pink lip until late lastnight he changed it to Morange (Mac) lipstick with tonnes of gloss. Add white liner and false lashes (Mac lash 35 on top, 33 on lower lash) to the top and bottom, seal with mascara and you're good to go.
Tom and Sam McKnight were having a love in each proclaiming the other to be the greatest. As Tom said his goodbyes to finish Lindsey Wixson, Sam talked us through his modern beehive, "I don't expect you all to start doing this in real life, you'd be there for hours but maybe girls will take certain parts from it, maybe the height on the crown." One thing he warns; when backcombing make sure you're protecting your hair. Try Pantene Damage Defence Spray.
Mackenzie Drazan, still working on her physics homework. Good luck!
How cool are Mac senior artist Kerri Blair's nails...
Prada - Thursday 20th
It was touch and go for a while whether we would even make it into Prada. Word on the street was that Guido had changed the hair at the 11th hour. Two hours later, we were still stood outside Prada HQ jostling with angry photographers when suddenly ten minutes before the show was due to start, the Italian heavy on the door finally gave us the nod and in we ran.
Despite the last minute changes,doyenne of the makeup world Pat McGrath was all smiles as she quickly ran us through the look.
"It's a very bold, strong look. A passionate red mouth with a beautiful white highlight on the cupids bow, slightly illustration-like. The lids are left nude with slight accents of shimmer."
Key product? Max Factor Colour Elixir lipstick in Ruby Tuesday.
Guido created faux fringes by pulling the girls.hair up into chignons and folding it over on itself so the ends tickled the girls eye.
More origami hair? This could be another trend on the horizon. I'll keep you posted....
As seen at DKNY :
And Max Mara :
Ermano Scervino - Thursday 20th
My first backstage in Milan was full of familiar faces (Cara D, Constance etc etc) all laughing, relaxed and happy to chat.
Could be something to do with the backstage catering by far the best we've encountered on the internash fash circuit so far.
This is the prettiest pony we've seen all season. Still a side parting (that's a solid trend for SS13) with added volume at the back.
Gabriele Trezzi lifted the mid section of hair at the back of the head, back combed and pulling the top section over secured it all into a pony. Wrapping a strand of hair around the base to hide the elastic he tugged hair slightly above the base to create a 'baggy' texture. Tong the ends and finish with Morocconoil hairspray, add a natural looking summer glow with subtly highlighted skin and you're done.
Ok, so I'm leaving for the airport at 4am tomorrow (yes, that's 4am) and there'll be no time to wash my hair tonight in between packing and sleeping so I've run across town to Selfridges new Beauty Workshop. A last min appointment with Gemma (fresh from LFW herself - she was part of Luke Hershesons hair team at Daks, Michael Van Der Haam and Emilio de la Morena) at the new Hershesons blow dry bar.
You can everything done in the workshop from nails to tan to threading. Put me on a conveyor belt and send me out the other side. I could live here.
Arrivederci, a presto!
My nails have been as inspired by NYFW and LFW as I have. So far they've been sporting the New York Nude and a grittier London glitter fade out. The office have requested I start a new city with a new nail. So here it is: Head Mistress by Essie, a rich, glossy deep red. Perfect for Milan.
See you there...