We've had fresh-not-trashy Barbie doll beauty at Moschino, "gentle" make-up techniques at Blumarine but the stand-out look has to be Fendi's eyelid embellishments of sky blue leather.
Stylist's Beauty Editor Sam Flowers and Beauty Assistant Shannon Peter are reporting on the SS15 beauty trends, insider gossip and expert tips from backstage at Milan Fashion Week
BLUMARINE: Gentle beauty
Featuring ethereal sheer fabrics, pretty floral motifs and elegant silhouettes, Blumarine's SS15 collection was all about femininity and backstage, the beauty team were hard at work replicating this notion in the hair and make-up.
Tom Pecheux for Mac channelled a young almost naive beauty, through pared-back make-up that reminded him of when girls first start to experiment with the stuff. "Nothing your mother would be able to notice," he explained, which meant gentle bronzer, flattering blush, no mascara and just a stain of beige lipstick.
Hair Stylist James Pecis, for MoroccanOil, went for a more womanly aesthetic, reeling off adjectives like 'sexy', 'bouncy' and 'feminine'. Setting hair with a curling tong and pinning curls up, he misted the hair with hairspray to keep its shape before brushing through to create strong, bouncy waves. He kept product to a minimum to retain freshness: "I want it to look like they have just washed their hair in the springs of the Swiss Alps," he explained.
MOSCHINO: Box-fresh Barbie
Stepping backstage at Moschino felt like walking into a life-size version of Barbie's dream house. As Barbie's famous soundtrack played front of house, a roller-skating Charlotte Free whizzed past and in her wake, followed a line-up of real life dolls: candy pink lips and blonde bouffants included. The dream world continued at the catering table, where rows of pink Moschino-meets-Barbie branded Diet Coke cans were ready for the models' refreshment. A quick peek at the catwalk revealed a front row lined with Moschino Barbie dolls, as gifts for the most important guests.
For make-up artist Lucia Pieroni, this brief was a no brainer. She slicked lips with a custom-made shocking pink lipstick, which was then glossed to create that sickly, syrupy sheen. Adamant this was "the original Barbie; not trashy Barbie" she kept skin fresh, brows tidy and lashes full - each model wore two sets of false lashes to create a feathery, almost doll-like effect.
And the hair? Well as you'd expect: big, glossy and made of nylon, like a pristine Barbie fresh out of the box.
FENDI: Leather lids
Sometimes, powder and cream just don't create the desired impact. Truly cementing the spring/summer leather trend we've witnessed on the catwalks over the past few weeks, Fendi accessoried its models' eyes with the material.
Sam McKnight found another use for eyelash glue, sticking carefully cut-out strips of sky blue leather to the girls' eyelids. Maybe don't try this at home: