Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week insider blog

Posted by
Stylist Team
Published
backgroundLayer 1
Add this article to your list of favourites

Stylist's fashion and beauty teams are posting updates from the shows, frows and parties at Milan Fashion Week...

GIORGIO ARMANI

Deep navy and various shades of red were the colours to take away from Giorgio Armani's Fashion Week finale. Cool organza trousers were paired with sturdy woven jackets and coats, while the sheer material was used to create short skirts with ruched waistbands and structured vest tops with luxe sport detailing.

Beads, sequins and fringing were worked into Armani's characteristic clean lines.

MISSONI

Stripes galore and a sporty edge at Missoni, which collaborated with Converse All-Stars to create a shoe in striped and zigzag Missoni fabric. Bright reds, oranges and yellows added warmth to the collection.

Neat hair and bold eyes in cobalt, yellow, cyan and white by Lucia Pieroni for Missoni:

BAG SPOTTING

Andrea Incontri is giving consumers the gift of the fringed bucket bag for spring.

In pretty pastel suedes and metallics, not only do the totes have room for more than just your essentials, they can double as a fancy footstool...

Sara Battaglia has been making bags for only five years, but her distinctive creations - from perforated Lady Me clutches to plush leather fringed totes - are already a favourite with fashion editors around the world. Her presentation at Milan Fashion Week was held in an opulent afternoon tea setting befitting her collection.

Anya Hindmarch did it last year with Daz packaging and just last week Jeremy Scott sent window cleaner spray iphone cases down the runway, now Au Jour Le Jour may have officially killed the iconic cleaning product trend. The label's kitsch Dash bags are the result of a collaboration with the Procter and Gamble-owned Italian detergent brand...

MILAN STREET STYLE

Is what we leave the shows and coffee shops for. See more fabulous looks here.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Another seaside theme, but this time we were transported to Italy's Amalfi coast and rather than the direct naval and sea inspirations of many other Milan collections, these were elegant, intricate clothes made for Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce's tourists - selfie-taking models.

The catwalk was filled with the drama and decadence we expect of a D&G show, with everything from jacquard trouser suits to a ruby velvet dress adorned with a print of the Madonna.

Dresses came with picture postcard prints and childlike fun fair scenes...

While the driver behind the selfie show may have been the chance to highlight the distinctive print on the phone cases.

A new kind of camera bag...

The devil is in the detail...

There's always time for a sweet stop

JIMMY CHOO

The catwalks have been threatening a clog revival and it seems Jimmy Choo is onboard. Studded marl grey suede with a heel full of glitter are the only ones we'd consider...

CHIARA FERRAGNI

Chiara Ferragni, the blogger and designer behind style blog, The Blonde Salad, held a dynamic presentation full of superhero-themed designs...

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Stripes, pleats and pearls dominated at Salvatore Ferragamo, where scrunchy lightweight black leather pencil skirts and roomy tops balanced the more fussy, feminine pieces.

Shoulders were highlighted with low slung tops and statement pearls...

MARNI

Colour, layering and killer accessories at Marni's Sunday morning show.

Lego bright hues were splashed onto solid geometric cuts that were sliced and slashed into boxy layers. Accessories were exaggerated - dangly, collar-skimming earrings and huge plastic bangles worn symmetrically on both wrists.

DSQUARED2

"Sporty, flirty, tough" and with a "penchant for surfing and couture" - this is the woman inspiring Dsquared's spring 16 collection. This meant another showing of tropical prints, in a landlocked city currently preoccupied with all things oceanic.

Cords and harnesses looped around swimming costumes and dresses featured scuba style zippers. Tropical prints came on black neoprene detailed with sequins and there were metallic chainmail tops. There were even Dsquared's answer to the wetsuit - badass and beautiful tattoo printed tulle bodysuits.

Layered vests with flashes of metallic paired with floor-length chiffon skirts in neon green, electric blue and acid pink had a mermaid feel, though Alessandra Ambrosio and Bella Hadid worked them with a confident stride in platform sandals came with “soles resembling the varnished lines of a surfboard.”

Even the box bags came with strings of seashells dangling from them...

ERMANNO SCERVINO

Sensual lace, bright botanical prints and sharp, tailored coats in silky pastels made for a feminine showing at Ermanno Scervino.

Hitchcock heroines with a military edge...

JIL SANDER

Statement straw cloches topped off soft, minimalist leather coats knotted together with the kind of rubbery belts we saw in London at Paul Smith and Topshop Unique.

Strategic cut outs left us wondering whether we were looking at revamped suit jackets or waistcoats with sleeve attachments.

*SHANNON'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM ANTONIO MARRAS*

Make-up maestro Tom Pecheux described the beauty at Antonio Marras as “princess doll surrealism, inspired by the places the Marras girl has travelled but still true to where she has come from.”

That translated to a soft pink wash over the eye with silver pigment dotted on the centre of the eyelid and three small dots under the lower lash line. The lips were a matte burgundy, created with a matte lip pencil with a little bronzer patted over the top to take away any remaining sheen.

The hair was impeccably plaited into three braids that joined together at the back and was adorned with heavily embroidered head pieces.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Peter Dundas made his debut as creative director with a youth-oriented collection inspired by early '90s streetwear - sorbet acid denims, fringed waistcoats, chunky waist belts and ruffled drop-waist disco dresses.

Prom dresses worn with black collared tuxedo jackets and suede ribboned ankle boots.

Peachy ruffles came with criss-cross lace detailing.

Tea-stained tie-dye, leather cut outs and bright suede ankle boots at Roberto Cavalli.

The '90s gelled quiff is back, courtesy of hairstylist Guido Palau:

VERSACE

Versace's show flipped from precise military-inspired khaki jackets worn with micro minis or hotpants to a disco take on camouflage, with purple and green jungle prints worked into delicate slashed gowns, slouchy trouser suits and backpacks.

“The Versace woman unleashed in the urban jungle” was the theme of the show, with Gigi Hadid and Joan Smalls among the models walking, as Naomi Campbell and Anna Wintour watched from the front row.

MARCO DE VINCENZO

Breasts were one of the main attractions at Marco De Vincenzo, where delicate lace was juxtaposed with precise structuring - nipped in waists and underwiring on display.

GIAMBA

A fun-filled explosion of sass at Giamba, where lace edged babydoll dresses came with ripped male body prints and strategic nipple covers...

It was also at Giamba that the manicures finally broke free from the neutral uniform of this season thanks to holographic foils created by Mac nail artist Keri B.

AIGNER

A solid underwater theme at Aigner...

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI

A delicate China tea set print combined with mahogany coloured woven basket bags and leather detailing at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

HOW TO RECREATE PRADA'S GOLD LIP

Want it now? Shannon has the answer - watch her tutorial here.

Pictures: Magnificent street style outside the shows at Milan Fashion Week

SPORTMAX

Another naval-inspired show at Sportmax, where a blue and white colour palette was punctuated with punchy citrus and mustard brights. Modern graphic chain link and fishnet patterns were splashed across dresses and jackets that nodded to a '60s vibe.

EMPORIO ARMANI

A slouchy, "summer breeze" offering from Emporio Armani, where airy trouser suits came in dusky pinks and soft greys, worn with our favourite emoticon reference of Fashion Week so far. 

THIN IS THE NEW THICK

Many of us are on a quest for thicker hair, but it may be time to ditch the supplements and volume-boosting products because Fashion Week is proving that thin is in.

At Iceberg, hairstylist Neil Moodie used the ingenius trick of 'underbraiding' to achieve his desired floaty, ethereal, veil effect. We spotted underbraiding at Julien Macdonald and Erdem in London too and for those who do have an abundant mane, it means there's no need for thinning scissors.

The under section of the hair is braided using a mixture of french plaiting, twisting and pinning tightly to the scalp, allowing the top layers to fall down and cover the handiwork underneath.

If the elusive thick mane we've been searching for is the velvet drapes of hair, this is more like the delicate, translucent, pretty net curtains.

*SHANNON'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM ETRO*

Forget coffee, good hairstyles are what get me out of bed on a morning and James Pecis had just what I was after at Etro. Inspired by the intriguing combination of whimsical ballerinas and gypsies in the South of France, the result was a tight, twisted chignon with splayed ends and flyaways at the sides of the face.

Charlotte Tilbury headed up the make-up team and created a shimmery bronze eye covered in tonnes of Mac clear gloss for a shiny, dewy finish.

STRAIGHT TO STORE: FENDI'S STRAP YOU

In an age of impatience, Fendi is savvy enough to throw a tidbit to eager fans in the shape of its Strap You accessory - a detachable, embroidered leather bag strap that showcased on the label's spring/summer runway yesterday and is already available to buy in Milan. It will hit Fendi stores and online from November.

It has all the hallmarks of a winning gimmick that's destined to hang off the shoulders of Fashion Week's leading tastemakers. Why? It's instantly recognisable, like the label's famous fuzzy bag charms. The strap has options for personalisation, an ego-booster that worked for Burberry's sell-out capes, and last but not least, there is a limited edition release to spur fashion fans into action - just 50 pieces of a blue floral version will be available from Friday in Milan's Montenapoleone Boutique.

Over in New York, Jeremy Scott collaborated with Brazilian tutti-fruit scent plastic footwear brand (yes, really) Melissa for his vibrant spring/summer offering. The shiny £120 ankle boots and mules worn by his runway Barbies are already on the shelves in select stores.

His Thursday night construction couture bonanza for Moschino was of course filling up virtual shopping baskets at Harvey Nichols online today - the £55 'Fresh' iPhone cases likely to be the collection's first sell-out item. 

Topshop Unique once again made its SS16 collection available to buy immediately after its London Fashion Week show - though for a limited time only. For several seasons, Burberry has pushed out its clothing and beauty collection to buy in real time while its still being shown on the catwalk.

Shoppable runways have been gathering pace for years and while they may dilute the sense of exclusivity and question the function of season-distinct shows, they are what the smartphone-addicted consumer has now come to expect. Besides, with Britain's constantly changeable weather and the greater accessibility of year-round hot holiday destinations, our winter and summer wardrobes are becoming blurred. And no one wants to be told when they can buy a coat or a bikini - or a shiny new bag strap.

MOSCHINO

The hard hat invitations we received earlier were a clue to what Jeremy Scott had in store at Moschino, but we couldn't have envisaged anything quite as spectacular as the motorway mania we saw on the runway today.

An expansive construction theme spread from yellow and black taped strappy shoes and traffic cone handbags to kitsch US car wash-style drive-thru dresses that emulated rollover brushes.

As one jacket sign aptly read: 'Caution: Dangerous Couture.'

*SHANNON'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM MOSCHINO*

“Think back to the 90s, when the supermodels were the stars,” mused Tom Pecheux backstage at Moschino. “Think Cindy, Linda, Naomi ... and they all wore make-up.” 

For this return to full-faced glamour, Tom prepped the skin with foundation, did a little contour, highlighted the cheekbones, lined the lips, glossed the lips, filled in the brows, lined the eyes and applied lashings of mascara. I think this may be the most make-up I've seen so far this season, but the best part is that this cat eye flick and finished skin is totally wearable. But note, Tom used a dark purple liner instead of old-school black to give it a slightly modern edge.

On hair, it seems every girl had been given that Linda Evangelista shaggy bob chop, but thankfully for the models at least, they all wore wigs styled by Paul Hanlon.

*SHANNON'S BEAUTY NOTES FROM PRADA*

Prada is always a show that gets me excited. Firstly, because season after season it brings together the dream team that is Pat McGrath and Guido and secondly because this duo is never afraid to push the boundaries with beauty. And this season, the boundaries were pushed even further.

As the models arrived backstage, Guido pulled out a pair of scissors and mercilessly took to their fringes, creating punky splays of baby hair gelled down to the forehead. He reassured us that the models were all pretty cool about the chop, and a transformational hair style is something they've come to expect from being part of the Prada show.

Over on make-up, Pat McGrath created a new kind of statement mouth. Having scurried away the usual suspects of pillar box red or fuchsia pink, she instead reached for a professional gold cream pigment to coat the models' lips, patted over with a shimmering gold glitter.

EMILIO PUCCI

I almost got too distracted by the amazing shoe porn on offer backstage at Pucci to catch news of the beauty look...

On chatting to Mac's Lucia Pieroni, I discovered the inspiration was Kate Moss in the '90s, which piqued my interest.

There was a little worn-in kohl liner on the water line and fresh skin. An easy look that almost anyone can pull off.

FENDI

Summer leather and delicately engineered tailoring ruled at Fendi, where moody floral applique featured on everything from sandals to body harnesses.

We've got our eye on the edgy winged shades...

Sam McKnight tucked in long hair to make mussed-up bobs and Peter Philips saw that faces were bare - bar a strong slick of black liner painted below the brow line.

What the celebrities are wearing at Milan Fashion Week

MAX MARA

“Naive is the new sophisticated,” according to Max Mara's show notes for its naval-themed SS16 collection.

Primary colours and clean block stripes were teamed with knotted cord ties, chunky drawstrings and rows of polished buttons. 

THE MOSCHINO SHOW INVITATION

An intriguing teaser of what Jeremy Scott has in store...

COURTNEY LOVE

Jumps off the front row and onto the stage at Philipp Plein, where she entertained the crowds ahead of the show.

FAUSTO PUGLISI

A She-Ra feel at Fausto Puglisi's spring/summer 16...

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Desert goddesses in soft, earth-toned dresses swept down Alberta Ferretti's catwalk.

Feminine dresses were embellished with lace and embroidery panels and accessorised with handcrafted, dangly earrings and haphazardly placed jewels in disheveled buns.

GUCCI

A triumph on the catwalk at Gucci, as Alessandro Michele continued to offer a cartoonish yet infinitely covetable brand of geek chic.

The specs are back, bigger, bolder and more Velma Dinkley than ever...

Square cut white nails dipped in patent black polish - a SS16 mani we're ready to try out now.

STELLA JEAN

Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean opened MFW with an explosion of colours and textures. We loved the fruit-themed visors.

GENNY

Brows took on a shimmering gold hue at Genny.

SHANNON'S MFW ESSENTIALS

Jack Kerouac, Toni & Guy Casual Sculpting Powder and River Island heels are among beauty assistant Shannon Peter's kit for Milan.

Pictures: Taken with the Sony Xperia Z5. Additional images: Getty, Rex Features

Share this article

Author

Stylist Team