A drama-filled finale from Marc Jacobs and five things we learnt at NYFW AW15.
Stylist's Acting Fashion Director Sorrel Kinder and Executive Fashion Director Kitty McGee are reporting from New York Fashion Week AW15 - keep track of their updates here.
Five things we learnt at NYFW
1. For autumn winter we'll either be sexing-up, as at Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung and Proenza Schouler, or layering up, as at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang and DKNY
2. The '90s are back and we will be wearing slip dresses over t-shirts once again - finished off with a quilted jacket no less. Thank you Rag & Bone.
3. We'll be wearing trouser suits and tucking scarves of all varieties (faux fur, colourful shearling and chunky knitted) into the front of them - a styling tip courtesy of J Crew, Donna Karan and Michael Kors.
4. You'll need a 3.1 Phillip Lim-esque fisherman's jumper for AW15.
5. It's almost impossible to enjoy shopping in sub-zero temperatures. But we managed. KM
Guests arriving for the Marc Jacobs show at the Park Avenue Armoury were welcomed in from the (insanely cold) outdoors with warming glasses of neat vodka dressed with a little lemon rind, setting the tone perfectly for the dark, romantic, sexy show that ensued.
Opening so perfectly with Brit model Erin O'Connor, the drama-filled show was Jacobs at his best.
The collection was full of long pleated skirts and beautifully tailored coats with plenty of super-sexy eveningwear full of lace, feathers, sequins, appliqué and sheer details. The looks were finished perfectly with ladylike handbags, evening clutches, slim leather waist-belts, chokers and long leather gloves.
Models' hair and make-up complemented the elegant collection perfectly too; the hair was pulled up into topknots and the heavy silvery eye shadow and dark lips were really impactful. The perfect end to NYFW. KM
The Ralph Lauren Collection showed on the final morning of NYFW with impeccable tailoring.
Beautiful backless and strapless black dresses and show-stopping lace, sequin and beaded eveningwear options closed the show while cosy tweed, chunky knits and plenty of suede came in a colour palette of creams and browns.
Favourite pieces included an almost floor-length shearling coat, cream culottes and the many chunky fringed cardigan-wraps. The immaculately put together quilted jackets, capes and hats give us a perfect formula for keeping warm in the chicest way possible next winter. KM
The places to hangout in NYC
Downton New York is the new epicentre of all things fashion. Here are five spots where the industry crowds hang out to see and be seen:
Acme - hipster hangout, great for celeb spotting
Aurora - amazing Italian in SoHo, we recommend the burrata
Chalk Farm Kitchen - great new brunch spot on Broome
Navy - new restaurant in SoHo. The plates are like mini works of art, great for both lunch and dinner
La Esquina - underground Mexican. Underhand tactics may be required to get a table here, as it gets booked up within minutes of releasing reservations
Abstract impressionism and technical tailoring made for a bold and daring presentation at Proenza Scouler.
The oversized fishnets and fur, feather and tribal tribal detailing proved the most eye-catching touches:
Influences: Abstract Expressionist painter Helen Frankenthaler and minimalist sculptor Robert Morris
Naturally a glamorous affair, the Michael Kors show oozed classic luxury, with an overall 40s influence. The designer aptly described this autumn/winter collection as "opulent restraint" in a backstage interview ahead of the show. Neat fur collar trims over floral tea dresses, crystal silk pyjama suits, and shimmering floor-length gowns in Kors' clean lines stood out in rich jewel tones.
For the daytime Kors girl, the feel was country-set outdoorsy with soft teddy bear knits, tweed suits, brown leather flat brogue shoes and swooshing, oversized outerwear in his signature caramel colour palette.
Karlie Kloss swept down the runway in a high-neck floor-length sliver gown to close the show, as a Kors-clad Kate Hudson and Alison Williams watched from the frow.
Net-a-Porter throws a welcome party for Sarah Rutson
The great and the good from the fashion industry took their seats at Indochine in SoHo last night to raise a glass to the arrival of Net-a-Porter's "newest rookie" to quote Natalie Massenet, Brit Sarah Rutson, who's joining the digitial fashion powerhouse as vice president of global buying.
Natalie noted that people in the industry complain so much about our jobs but that we actually have the best jobs in the world, and looking around at the crowd which included Phillip Lim, Jenna Lyons, Caroline de Maigret, Amber Le Bon and more, it was hard to disagree. KM
Marc by Marc Jacobs
It's time to reconsider the beret.
Marc Jacobs has taken the French classic back to its military roots in an energetic runway display. Still in the philosophers' favourite black, it's now brandishing a double bullet belt of silver studs:
Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier showed a strong rebellious woman for their second collection for Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Silk neck scarves came in block colours and knotted at the front, not side, and many bore one-word feminist slogans, including "solidarity" and "suffrage". Bags were mini and boxy, but far from cute - worn like tool belts around the waist.
Prints were heavily influenced by William Morris, the wallpaper anarchist whose rage against the machine scandalised 19th century England, but the collection was more about empowerment than specific rebellion.
"There’s a bit of protest, but it’s more youth culture and power to change," co-designer Bartley explained to WWD.
The clothes had a youthfulness and energy and as well as Morris' influence, an element of punk crept in. The girls walked to T-Rex's Children of the Revolution in black velvet bell-shaped prom dresses with undernetting, tartan trousers and black shinny leather all styled with chunky studded flat shoes and that studded beret - which is sure to be the cool girls headwear of choice next season. SK
Fashion Week's most talked-about model and Jacobs muse Kendall Jenner hit the headlines at the design house's military barbies-themed show last season and was back in force at last night's show.
Alexa Chung and a pro-slogan Sarah Sophie Flicker watched from the front row:
Trending at NYFW:
The Tommy show was a celebration of 30 years at the forefront of American style - and they did indeed do it in style.
We were transported to an all-American football stadium, where the girls wore iconic styles from the late '60s and early '70s - silk bombers, double-breasted jackets, pleated skirts and long, striped school scarfs. All in school uniform colours of navy, maroon and creams.
What a great start to the morning. Victoria gave us a wearable and beautiful collection that played with winter textures and volume.
There was oversized cord, teddy bear coats, fine tweed and bobble textures. The key pieces were the coats and sleeveless tops, which both came with high necklines - which is fast becoming an early trend from the A/W shows.
The colour palette was subtle; navy, cream, olive with a pop of orange, letting all the amazing textures do the talking. SK
It's rumoured to be the coldest day in New York for 20 years today (it's currently minus 9 but feels like minus 18) and the city's mayor Bill de Blasio has recommended people stay at home.
We'll be out and about all day in the name of fashion though, so here are our cold weather essentials:
A heavy duty coat: Canada Goose
Thick knit jumper: Hoffman Copenhagen
Shearling lined shoes: Black slip-ons by All Saints, boots by UGG
Leather gloves: Marks and Spencer
Chunky leather boots: Supertrash
Creative Director Marissa Webb's vision for Banana Republic impressed NYFW audiences last night as the label showed its first static presentation as part of the official schedule. Gorgeous layered separates in dove grey, royal blue, khaki and burgundy were styled to perfection and teamed with a new directional footwear collection. KM
We joined the celebrities, models and New York socialites at the opening of Fendi's boutique store tonight. The Italian design house had asked five New York celebrities to customise a '3D' baguette bag that will all be auctioned for charity.
Trending at #NYFW today: teddy bear coats.
Known for its playful accessories, Kate Spade's AW15 collection didn't disappoint. Designer Deborah Lloyd described the "magical world of fairy tales" as her inspiration for the presentation, which featured beautiful chocolate box clutches, gem-embellished shoes, plenty of bright faux fur and the odd sly fox:
It may be Friday the 13th but the only unlucky thing about New York Fashion Week so far is the weather. Shows and parties kicked off in style yesterday, including Prada’s star-studded get-together for its new Iconoclasts installation.
The latest chapter in its long-running exhibition was inspired by an avant-garde after-party for the elite - with a little disco thrown in. Oscar-nominated costume designer Michael Wilkinson and his partner, Tim Martin, compiled the installation:
Dwyane Wade, Gabrielle Union, Kesha and Melissa George were among the guests:
Ahead of the designer's highly anticipated show tomorrow, Wag announced that his new jeans range - including the tempting "slim not skinny" fit - will be available from Net-a-Porter next month:
Miu Miu has given us a teaser of the latest in its Women’s Tales series, ahead of its premiere on the 18th.
The ninth short film "reflects Alice Rohrwacher’s attention for the surreal world of ordinariness and exceptions". Take a look at the trailer below and you can watch the other eight films in the series on Miu Miu's YouTube channel.
Stylist's fashion and beauty teams are reporting from the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris at Stylist.co.uk/fashion-week
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