Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier showed a strong rebellious woman for their second collection for Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Silk neck scarves came in block colours and knotted at the front, not side, and many bore one-word feminist slogans, including "solidarity" and "suffrage". Bags were mini and boxy, but far from cute - worn like tool belts around the waist.

Prints were heavily influenced by William Morris, the wallpaper anarchist whose rage against the machine scandalised 19th century England, but the collection was more about empowerment than specific rebellion.

"There’s a bit of protest, but it’s more youth culture and power to change," co-designer Bartley explained to WWD.

The clothes had a youthfulness and energy and as well as Morris' influence, an element of punk crept in. The girls walked to T-Rex's Children of the Revolution in black velvet bell-shaped prom dresses with undernetting, tartan trousers and black shinny leather all styled with chunky studded flat shoes and that studded beret - which is sure to be the cool girls headwear of choice next season. SK

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