Stylist's deputy beauty editor Samantha Flowers is blogging backstage from Paris Fashion Week. Check back daily to read her updates from the Spring/Summer 2013 shows.
Photos: Taken on HTC One S with instant image capture and Beats Audio™
That's a wrap ; the final curtain call for SS13.
In the strange seasonal world of fashion as we've journeyed through what we'll all be wearing next Spring, ironically in the real world its suddenly become winter. After four weeks on this travelling fashion circus its time for all those hardworking super stylists, makeup artists and models to take a holiday right? Wrong.
Here's what they did next:
Guido, Redken Creative Consultant "I'm flying to London tomorrow to shoot the Sephora ad campaigns. I won't get home to NYC for another two weeks. It probably would have been a good idea to take a holiday but I don't mind, I love what I do."
Orlando Pita, Hairstylist "I'm flying straight to LA to work on a shoot. I've no time for stopping."
Diane Kendall, makeup artist, "I'm heading back home to New York, I think I have one day off then I'm booked."
Josefine Nielson, model "I'm flying straight to Greece for a shoot then I have another one in LA after that. It's non stop but I love it."
And me? I'll be back in the office. I hope you've enjoyed this backstage trip we've taken together over the last four weeks. Leave me a comment below letting me know your favourite bits. For now, I bid you all au revoir and good night. See you next season.
Elie Saab - Wednesday 3rd
It was hairstylist Orlando Pita and makeup artist Tom Pecheux season finale and you could feel the excitement in the air. In a bid to make their final mark on the season their stations were buzzing with creativity. Orlando was busy handmaking and spraypainting metallic hair ties in a bid to "spice up a straight hair do" whilst Tom updated a simple black smokey eye by patting on a dirty brown eyeshadow (Mac eyeshadow in Smut) over a black gel liner. A new season spin on old favourites. Thanks guys.
Mac & Carine Roitfeld
Paris Fashion Week ended on a high last night as I attended the Mac party hosted by Carine Roitfeld to celebrate her makeup collaboration with the brand. Dress code? Black Tie & Smoky Eye.
The entire venue was scented with Jo Malone candles...
Karlie Kloss and Joan Small turned the tables interviewing everyone else...
...As Paloma Faith sang we danced next to Carine and Anna Dello Russo
Carine dancing to Paloma
Tiny star stencils are a part of Carines Mac collection which, by the end of the night, everyone was wearing...
Look who popped in - its King Karl.
Everywhere I turned I came face to face with a supermodel ; Karlie Kloss to Cara Delevigne, Joan Small to Arizona Muse. Hidden away in corners I spotted Valentino, Zac Posen, Gareth Pugh and the one and only Karl. After Carine danced to Paloma Faith with Anna Dello Russo, an 80's megamix got everyone dancing on the tables. As Kanye West turned up, a handful of models gave an impromptu strut up and down the hallway to Freedom by George Michael.
Paris Fashion Week, we salute you.
Alexander McQueen - Tuesday 2nd
"They are all wearing hats," Guido told us backstage at McQueen, "which makes it rather easy for me."
Sarah Burton's bee-inspired collection was completed with a visor-like, vinyl lace creation that masked the girls faces.
Parisian pooches have perfectly pampered paws.
Secret Hang Out...
Between Valentino and McQueen I stopped off to visit world renowned Colorist, Christophe Robin. Hidden away in a suite at Le Meurice hotel lies Robins secret salon, the address only given to those in the know. Clients include Beyonce and a certain Ms Wintour who has been visiting twice daily since she arrived in Paris, "for a blowdry at 7am and then a touch up in the evening." I was there to talk colour for upcoming Stylist features (keep an eye out) but I can let you in on Christophe's ultimate tip to keep hair colour in optimum condition, "lavender oil for strength and shine. All my clients use it. If you can't get your hands on that then L'Oreal Paris Elvive Extraordinary Oil will heal all heat or colour damage and return your hair to the best condition it can be."
Valentino - Tuesday 2nd
Redkens Creative Director Guido treated models fashion month ravaged locks to a dose of Redken Anti-Snap Treatment - the inner protein network strengthens damaged hair - then blew it into a side parting (starting from the crown). Teasing at the roots and tying at the nape, hair was then twisted into a bun and flattened with the palm of his hand, pinned and sealed with a liberal spritz of Redken Fashion Work hairspray. Classic Italian Renaissance woman.
Meanwhile Pat McGrath was referencing the model Maud as her inspiration creating perfect porcelain skin complete with a little flush which she matted down with powder. Simply gorgeous.
Chloé - Monday 1st
Diane Kendalls last show of the season was a good one...
It seems like years ago when we first chatted to her at Alexander Wang, our first show of the season. Four weeks later backstage at Chloe, Diane was busy painting metallic copper rectangles across the models eyes. In homage to the sixties, this modern shape is a way of hinting at the era without being too literal. Using a brush to paint Mac cream shadow in Smoked Paprika she then dabbled on Metallic Pigment in Copper. Add a thin black liner at the lashes for a little definition and voilà! Diane is done!
The life of a Chloe girl isn't always glamorous. Kettle = makedo hair washing station.
"This is 'easy to do hair' it's what you girls do everyday" proclaimed super stylist Guido backstage. "A deep side part, pull into a pony and catch it in the loop." Key product: Redken Powder Refresh - part dry shampoo, part texturising spray. Easy.
Stella McCartney - Monday 1st
Welcome to the gilded backstage at Stella McCartney. Were deep in the heart of the opulent Opera house where the power team of Pat McGrath (on makeup) and Eugene Souleiman (on hair) are working away on the biggest models of the moment.
"Stella loved last seasons pop of colour on the lashes," Pat explained, "so this season weve gone for a flash of green along the waterline." Using Max Factor 2 in 1 Ageless Elixir foundation Pat created a sheer, perfect base that she called "very Stella" then taking Laura Mercier eyepencil in Jungle she lined the inner eye before finishing with Max Factor Clump Defy Volumising Mascara (out in January).
Joan Small was busy regaling everyone backstage with tales of her table dancing lastnight at the Givenchy party. Despite the late night she looked wide awake, unlike Anna Selezneva who despite an early night couldn't stop yawning. Sometimes life just isn't fair.
Natalia and Kate dropped by to wish Stella good luck. Closely followed by Ms Wintour.
It's a family affair...
Stella's kids chatted happily with the models and played with Grandpa Paul as their mum carried out some last minute checks.
Leonard - Monday 1st
Backstage at Leonard, hairstylist Damien Boissinot was creating a super sheeny, slicked back 'do with a double dose of hairspray by blowing in TIGI Catwalk Sleek Mystique hairspray for hold and finishing with TIGI Session Series Classic Hairspray for shine.
Inge Grognard mirrored his double act on the eyes using two black Mac eyeshadows (Carbon and Black Tied) in a straight, strong shape.
Giambatista Valli - Monday 1st
It was back to school again at Giambatista Valli as Val Garland created a bevy of healthy, wealthy, perfect looking beauties. Taking a white liner (Mac Eyepencil in Fascinating) along the inner lash line she finished with a liberal dose of a fleshy coloured gloss (Mac lipgloss in Summer Sweetheart, out in Spring). Super natural, super perfect, super groomed.
Kenzo - Sunday 30th
Kenzo's Fumble in the Jungle...
That was how TIGI hair stylist Anthony Turner explained the look to us backstage in a disused Jujitsu stadium. Spritzing a cocktail of TIGI Session Series Surf Spray diluted down with water into dry hair he let it air-dry, falling naturally into a parting.
Manicurist Marian Newman held court at the nail station where she was busy accessorising the clothes with polish in tones of nude, greens and oranges, "not with shoes, not with bags, not with lipstick. It's all about the nails."
Meanwhile Mac makeup artist Yadim created a 'wild' eyed look using Mac Chromaline Eye Pencils in a myriad of shades to match the nails. "My girls are going partying in the jungle," he proclaimed, "and by the end of it, they ARE the jungle." Keeping the shape slightly animalistic he connected the shape into a point at the inner corner leaving a gap just under the iris and finished with heavy clumps of mascara.
Loewe - Saturday 29th
Meet makeup artist Pat McGrath's 'badass Spanish senoritas.'
Backstage at Loewe we were introduced to this little newbie, Redken Duo Shield Heat Protecting Blowdry Cream. The clever double filtered technology means one squirt gives equal parts of styling gel and heat protecting lotion. Sadly it doesn't launch in the UK until next year.
Ever wondered how each model makes it through hair, makeup and nails and out the other side in double quick time? It's all down to checklists like these. Backstage managers, we salute your organisational skills.
Paris by moonlight...
How cool are these comic book inspired stained glass windows? Just thought I'd share...
Jean Paul Gaultier - Saturday 29th
Tonight Matthew, I'm going to be....
Backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier was like an episode of Stars In Their Eyes as one by one, supermodels were transformed into Eightie's popstars to a backing track of Abba and Marvin Gaye as Jean Paul himself walked around giggling. Redken's Creative Director, Guido proclaimed it the most fun he'd had in ages, despite the challenges he faced (53 different looks including some midway changes that see Karlie Kloss transform from Boy George into David Bowie) although he confessed it was making him feel old, "half these girls have no idea who they're chanelling. Jessica Stam loves the hair I've given her; she's not got a clue its Madonna in her Holiday era."
Key product? "Redken Fashion Works Hairspray and lots of it." Well, it is the Eighties after all!
Colourist Josh Wood coloured all the wigs in London then waved them off on a plane to Paris.
Karlie Kloss interviews Guido
Constance is....Jane Birkin
The beautiful Constance Jablonski, Estee Lauder spokesmodel and one of the sweetest models you could ever meet talks us through her look...
Madonna's makeup and an Abba wig. Anything's acceptable in the 80's.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label - Saturday 29th
Only Viv could hold her show in the British Embassy...
Even the topiary was dressed up for the occasion
In we go...
A hug from nail artist extraordinaire Marian Newman and one of the most exciting nails we've seen all season put a smile on our faces. These double dose 'Brit bling' nails are courtesy of 'cut diamond' patterned Nail Rock stickers (available Spring 2013) with Swarovski crystal embellishments.
Look who was lucky enough to have a sneaky nail-over between the models!!!
Two minutes with Josefine Nielsen.
I caught up with Josefine and her mum while she was having her nails done backstage. Her first show of the day she was feeling chatty despite not having slept all night, "I think I must be staying on the party street," she told me "I had to give up on sleep at 3am and go into the lounge to watch tv." So how does this model look so fresh faced on no sleep? Well its not down to coffee as caffeine doesn't agree with this model, Josefine put her glowy complexion down to Kiehls Facial Moisturiser that she mixes with a couple of drops of Jan Masters Argan Oil she bought from Wholefoods. She also swears by fish oil tablets and Priorin vitamins to make her hair strong and shiny. Josefine would also like you all to know London is her favourite fashion city. Why? "I love your food! I love Wasabi, Itsu and Eat soups are the best. Also Rocky Roads from your bakeries." We hear ya Josefine.
Want to know how Vivienne Westwood described the show to makeup artist Val Garland? "She said the collection was Marie Antoinette meets African Punk Aliens."
Val took reference from Marie Antoinette and painted heart shapes around the faces with explosions of white at the eye socket for a voodoo sensation.
Veronique Le Roy - Saturday 29th
And so we found ourselves in an empty class room backstage at Veronique Leroy with makeup artist Sam Bryant who was "breaking all the rules" as she piled on layer after layer of Mac Opulash mascara in brushing lashes sideways to get it as clumpy as possible.
Haider Ackermann - Saturday 29th
Good morning! It's a beautiful day in Paris. Ready for the first show of the morning? It's Haider Ackermann in, a football stadium??
Want to recreate makeup artist Stephane Marais neo-punk purple pout? Here's how:
Sketch a structured lip shape using Mac Chromaline Eye Pencil in Rich Purple.
Fill the lip shape in with Mac Lipmix in Burgundy.
Press Mac Pigment in Violet over the top. The more you press, the more metallic it becomes.
The hair-spiration at Haider
Eugene Souleiman, Global Ambassador for Wella Professional was busy 'hair tailoring' on two hours sleep this morning. Why two hours? He'd been up until 3am teaching his team how to create this Sumo inspired hair structure, "I went to Japan twelve years ago and spent two weeks in Kyoto learning this hair technique," he explained, "my team had two hours to learn." No pressure then.
This sheeny looking style was created by squashing Wella Texture Touch Reworkable Clay (the nearest product he could find to Sumo Wax) into roots and heating it up with a hairdryer, melting it into the hair. Creating a pony in the centre of the head he split it into two and folded each pony on itself to create a bow shape. "It kind of looks like Darth Vaders helmet", he quipped. Quite.
DO try this at home: If you don't fancy using a wax, slick hair back using Wells Professional Shimmer Delight Spray.
A totally silent backstage gives the models (and the journalists) a chance to wake up. Or catch up on some sleep. How about a bit of TS Eliot? Or take a book recommendation from Karlie Kloss who was deep into Liars Poker by Michael Lewis *downloads to Kindle*
Stylist fave and let's face it, the guys who really kickstarted the nail art trend, WAH Nails set up pop-up shop in the newly opened W Paris Hotel this week. I stopped off for a speedy nail sesh, strong coffee (that 5am Eurostar was a killer) and gossip after my last show of the day.
I went for a nude base with black triangular halfmoons and a diamante accent nail. What do you think?
Thank you, HTC!
Not only have the lovely people at HTC lent me an HTC ONE Beats Audio handset for the month to blog from (panoramic picture settings and a video editing programme on your phone that's easy enough for even the biggest technofobe to work? Erm, yes please!) They've also provided me with this (gladly received) fashion week (that should be month) survival kit packed with life's little necessities including a mirror, lipbalm, breath mints, mini nail files and an emergency packet of nuts. HTC, I can't thank you enough.
Roland Mouret - Friday 28th
Citing her inspiration as Princess Stephanie of Monaco and taking into account Mouret's signature bodycon, flesh baring designs, St Tropez Global Skin Finishing Expert Nichola Joss told us she chose to give the models bodies a typically Parisian molten honey glow. By buffing in St Tropez Tan Optimiser Body Butter all over followed by a light coating of St Tropez Wash Off Instant Glow Mousse, she raced through the 23 models in double quick time.
In stark contrast to this luxe glow, hair stylist Orlando Pita gave the girls a faux buzz cut while makeup artist extraordinaire Val Garland painted a dark, "scribbly" eye.
It's starting to look very much like a season of contrasts. LOVE.
Issey Miyake - Friday 28th
How lucky am I?! Eugene Souleiman Global Creative Director for Wella Proffessional has used this product at EVERY show from NYC to Paris. And he's just sneaked one into my bag. *Squeal*
Will use tonight and report back!
He tells us why it is so amazing :
As previously mentioned, the life aquatic is a recurring theme in beauty this season with watery textures and effects giving AW12 black liner a run for its money. Here, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni used Mac Pigment in Platinum painted across the lid as a smudged metallic liner, "I thought about bird feathers on water," she told us, "they dont have any solid edges to them, they just sort of blur." Sticking to the watery theme she painted a line of Mac Lipglass in Clear down the centre of the face (from forehead, down the nose to the chin) then spritzed with Fix+ for a dewy finish designed to reflect the light when they walk.
Is the nude nails reign over?
Everyone needs a little R'n'R sometimes
The sun rising over Paris. One little treat on the 5am Eurostar.