Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week insider blog: Louis Vuitton's future-proof leathers

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Stylist's fashion and beauty teams are posting updates from the shows, frows and parties at Paris Fashion Week...


A fencing theme and a Kanye-esque finale from Giambattista Valli at Moncler Gamme Rouge, where floral texture was key.

White and silver babydoll dresses and coats with puffed out waists came in sheer, satin or mesh and were covered in 3D daises or embroidered black tulips.

Even some of the hightops featured a floral print. 


Michelle Williams and Miranda Kerr haven't been seen on the celebrity circuit in Paris - until today. Williams, who is the face of Louis Vuitton and Kerr, a longtime fan, both made sure the fashion house was the only one they made time for.

They're unlikely to have been disappointed. It was not the only show with a futuristic theme, but Nicholas Ghesquiere's collection was incomparable to anything we've seen on the runways this season.

A bubblegum pink leather biker jacket with black patch pockets was the opening look and set the tone - tough, textured and perfectly balanced.

There were more work-of-art leather biker jackets - including a tie dye look - and knee-length leather coats that shed any Matrix overtones with contrasting sleeves and bright patches of colour.

Bells and whistles came in the form of metal-toe tips, leather cuffs-come-fingerless gloves and of course the bags that Louis Vuitton is best known for. These were sturdy,mini trunks reminiscent of toolboxes or quilted with discrete branding and carried with short, chunky chains.

The beauty look at Louis Vuitton:


In one of the more unusual celeb catwalk cameos at Fashion Week, Gwendoline Christie, aka Game of Thrones' Brienne of Tarth, appeared motionless at Iris van Herpen’s spring show, lying in a web dress.


The model swapped the runway for a comfy seat front and centre to watch Taiwanese designer Shiatzy Chen's show.


We've fallen in love with this super cute Karl-bot and Choupette-bot at the Karl Lagerfeld spring press day.


An autumnal palette of superior dresses featuring leather, knitwear, fringing and patchwork at Valentino's Africa-inspired show. 

Pierpaolo Piccioli told WWD beforehand: “This is the time to see the integration of different cultures, to create new balances between our safe aesthetic and crossing a new culture.”


Karl Lagerfeld played around with the 'runway' for Chanel's ever spectacular Fashion Week show, this time transforming the Grand Palais into an airport to show off the spring/summer 16 collection.

Edie Campbell, Kendall Jenner and Lindsey Wixson were among the Chanel Supers who looked like they were catching a flight to the future. Reflective tangerine aviators or a sci-fi blue shadow smeared around the eyes offset shiny silver sandals with white platform wedges and silver fingerless gloves.

Neat mini pleats and ruffles looked regal on a shimmering dusky pink dress, while the fashion house's signature tweed came in bright summery tartan or blurred graphic prints on coats and jackets with side fastening collars reminiscent of a Star Trek uniform.

Socks and sandals are officially in fashion:

Front row guest Cara Delevingne did a finale lap with young Hudson Kroenig and Lagerfeld:

Vanessa Paradis, Jean-Paul Goude and Lily-Rose Depp watched the Chanel show:


The Rugby World Cup hosts may have been knocked out in the pool stages, but France is very much still in, and now well-heeled fans can cheer on the team as they pass around their very own Chanel rugby ball.

Yes, the French fashion house, under the direction of the ever-eccentric Karl Lagerfeld, has created its first ever rugger ball that it describes as both a collectors' item and "perfectly in tune with the zeitgeist." It's available on special order in white, burgundy, navy blue and black. 


Courtney Love's Hole years inspired Heid Slimane's spring/summer 16 offering, with models wearing their tiny tiaras and ultra-sheer skimpy mini slip dresses with wellies and bombers.

The show also served as a surprise comeback for Agyness Deyn, the mid-noughties it-model who turned to acting and hasn't appeared on a runway since 2011.


An elegant kind of glitz and glamour at Sonia Rykiel, where sequinned gowns were timeless and Oscar red carpet-worthy.


For the Giambattista Valli finale, Gigi Hadid swept down the runway in a billowing yellow strappy dress, her hair loose and make-up natural - a big dress for a big name that would grab headlines and work well in pictures. But the dress wasn't truly indicative of the collection that preceded it, a '60s/'70s homage full of jacquard prints, sparkly tweed, circular motifs and hippie florals.


As my final show of fashion week, I was excited to walk into a room of glitter backstage at Giambattista Valli. Val Garland had mixed up bright colour glitters to paint in curves over the crease of the eye. Shannon Peter

Only 11 girls got this treatment and each had a different colour sparkle.


The beauty look at Stella McCartney very much reflected the beauty regime of the designer herself: minimal and understated. For the hair Eugene treated each model to a nourishing hair mask before styling and simply opted for a healthy just-been-washed texture.

Everyone had a Sunday Riley facial using the new Pro range to help settle skin tired and irritated after four weeks of shows. Then, to recreate the fresh glow the models had at the start of Fashion Week, Pat McGrath applied a dewy foundation and plenty of concealer.

Sally Hansen's Madeleine Poole was on hand to paint the nails with a light, creamy polish: Arm Candy.


In the magnificent setting of the Palais Garnier, with a solid celebrity fanbase including M.I.A., Salma Hayek, Suki Waterhouse and Rhys Ifans watching from the front row, Stella McCartney presented a stellar line-up of dresses. Asymmetric tartan came with sporty polo collars, huge white monochrome swirls were emblazoned on black, while swirls of mesh were stitched together to form figure-enhancing silhouettes in bright citrus shades.

Shoes, bag, shades at Stella McCartney

Suki and Rhys joined Stella's starry frow:


Apple Watch's high fashion Hermès makeover launches today to chime (sorry) with Paris Fashion Week, as well as to target fashion-focused Christmas shoppers - and we got to take it for a spin.

As soon as the Stella McCartney show finished we joined a throng of eager British reporters at the Apple Store to coo over the jazzed-up smartwatch. It's inspired by the luxury leather brand's equestrian roots and is utterly chic. The leather straps come in Single Tour, Double Tour, or Cuff in shades of fauve, étain, capucine and bleu jean.

It's also set apart from the Apple original with Hermès custom font on the watch face and engravings on the buckle and on the rear. 

The watch is stocked in only 17 select Apple and Hermès stores and will not be available online.

  • Single Tour: £720
  • Double Tour: £820
  • Cuff: £990


See how to recreate the loose, low ponytail that Guido Palau sent down the runway at Balenciaga.


Double denim took on a new meaning at McQueen as regal floral embroidered denim was worn with distressed jeans and stitched onto denim frock coats and denim wedges.

It was a richly textured collection with monochrome crocheted gowns and intricate black and white lace dresses. Accessories added to the splendour, with silver jewelled harnesses worn over the lacy gowns and paired with dangling pearl earrings.

Softer looks came in the shape of delicate embroidered floral motifs on creamy leather dresses with plunging necklines surrounded by structured ruffles.

Salma Hayek watched the McQueen show from the front row...


Concentrated cut-outs echoed Chanel's famous moth-eaten/Swiss cheese AW14 jogging suits at Akris, while other sport luxe came in the shape of neat mesh worked into asymmetric dresses. 


The catwalk trend for sheer has already been seized on by sociable celebrities, who have been braving it braless with big pants or wearing it with awkward-looking bras, but Galliano presented a more comfortable alternative with his dotty dress. The same dots were worn in black tight form under a white ruffle dress and tartan printed jacket - an eclectic but successful mish-mash of romance and rebel. He also presented one of the most accomplished slip dresses we've seen this season - and we've seen a lot. 


Mouret's famous Galaxy dress made a comeback in 10 summery shades for its 10th anniversary, while other office/red carpet potentials included a loose navy dress with short boxy sleeves and a flattering V-cut - an elegant take on the off-the-shoulder trend - and a monochrome floral silky two-piece with belted waist.

Selfridges is already exclusively stocking a selection of Mouret's SS16 collection.


The sleepwear trend came in two very definite guises at Celine:


Fausto Puglisi brought an Austin Powers feel to his Emanuel Ungaro collection with 3D flower bras, ruffles on bright button-up shirts, patent mini skirts and over-the-knee boots in pastel-coloured floral lace.

There was a spectacular cape dress with matching boots and midi tops with lattice detailing, buckles and a halterneck.


Fake freckles and Timotei advert hair was the beauty inspiration at Emanuel Ungaro.

Sam McKnight paid homage to those famous '90s TV ads by giving longer-haired models freshly washed, fluffy-textured 'wafty' hair using either Bumble and Bumble's Dry Spun finish or Oribe's Dry texture spray, depending on the natural texture of the hair.

Lucia Pieroni created “natural, fresh freckled skin” using three shades of Mac eyebrow pencils to make the fake beauty marks look more natural. She finished off with just the lightest hint of cream blush, “so it looks as though she's just run up a mountain.”

Moodboard inspiration backstage at Emanuel Ungaro...


A pretty rainbow of eclairs greeted us at Kenzo on Sunday morning, before a production line of models were transported on their own moving runways through a makeshift Roman Aqueduct at the Paris Event Center.

The models glided, rather than sped in the way Kenzo's hyperlapse clip suggests:

Chunky lattice effect knee high boots and slides anchored zig zag patchwork dresses and kimono-inspired suits with bright geometric prints.

Designer Humberto Leon explained: “A lot of it was about this woman travelling and picking up all these different things along the way. Not necessarily clothing, but more ideas, people, trinkets and souvenirs. It is almost the idea that you adapt wherever you go and so it was about this idea of a woman who is excited about what’s to come.”

Zendaya watched from the front row at Kenzo

Rihanna leads the A-list trend in sheer dressing on Saturday night in Paris


Models joked around with fashion's sheer obsession on Saturday night, before hitting the patent red painted catwalk in a chic collection that featured strong summer leather and silky, shiny fabrics in a rich, traditionally autumnal palette.

Most surprising was the butcher's apron, reworked into a club-ready dress:


Red, white, black and blue was the simple palette at Comme des Garçons, where the silhouettes did all talking.

See the kookiest looks from Fashion Week


Psychedelic eyes and a theatrical beauty cheat in the shape of a veiled hat at Vivienne Westwood...

There was, of course, a political message to Viv's show - this time she was saving Venice by highlighting climate change and its damaging effect on the city's architecture.

Muted tailored suits with striking shoulders punctuated elaborate Venetian-inspired floral and harlequin prints and rich gold and black tapestry outfits.


Frills, sequins, lace and neck ties adorned beautifully cut gowns at Saab's Super-filled show...

Sporty touches were tentatively introduced in the shape of a bright white jogging suit with black piping and cut-open sleeves and bombers with pastel go-faster stripes or floral patterns.


Fashion reignited its love affair with rock n' roll at Acne, where guitar motifs were splashed across tailored jackets - some with only one sleeve - and shades had a Grace Jones feel.

Dick Page opted for a pure, versatile make-up classic: “A big old red lip,” he explained backstage, “you could wear it to a rodeo, the opera or a rock and roll gig.”

Eugene Souleiman created uber-thick fringes for the long-haired models and slightly tapered them at the middle of the forehead. Just as major hair thickness envy was setting in, he brought me back down to earth. “We've layered so much hair to create these fringes - no one has hair as luscious as this.”


Military turned sexy at Mugler.

Navy, white and khaki minidresses hosted a crop of trends, including cutaway leather, silky patch pockets and one-shoulder - in the form of a stud detail dress that appeared to be sliding off the body to reveal a simple white costume underneath. Bright tangerine broke up the sludge palette, while the lattice effect we've seen at other shows appeared on dresses and platforms.


My Little Pony hair is still in at Haider Ackermann, where it was pulled into birds nest ponytails and strewn across models' faces in candyfloss whisps.

Hair stylist Camo flew in from Tokyo for the job, and was instructed to bring one thing with him: colour. He created the twisted ‘elegant punk’ styles with pastel-toned hair interwoven and attached with safety pins.

With such extravagant hair, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander pared back the overall beauty look with a simpler face. Rather than colour, it was texture she played with, coating the models' eyelids in a clear glaze and drenching the brushed-up brows with a clear gloss.

Edie Campbell led Ackermann's punk collective, where yolk yellows and sugary pinks were whipped into ruffle blouses, shimmering calf-skimming trousers and silky lounge jackets. The colourful, feminine pieces were tempered with slices of black in simple tailored waistcoats, contrasting collars and hints of mesh. Black leather trousers trailed the skinny straps we've seen across the catwalks this season, black ankle boots came with pointy toes dipped in slicks of gold and tight, short waisted jackets were rolled up at the sleeves - for the woman ready for anything.


Saturday started with a jolt at Junya Watanabe's origami-heavy collection, where the anti-beauty look gave us protruding warrior scars.


Friday's shows came to a dramatic end at Yohji Yamamoto's characteristically gothic offering, where there was heavy fabric, moth-eaten ballgowns, layers and volume.


Following Chalayan's shower show with water-soluble coats, Alexander Wang signed off from Balenciaga with catwalk pools. Simply-dressed models in cream pyjama-esque outfits padded around the water in soft luxury spa-style slippers.


Kiss curls appeared painted on and lips were given a mojito sugar crusting at Undercover, where evil clowns, eerie Little Drummer Boys and er, the Rolling Stones provided inspiration.


A medley of trends came together at Marant. There was fringing, embroidery, trailing straps and more metallics - boho meets futuristic, with art deco flourishes.


Raf Simons set the scene for his collection at Dior by erecting a mountainous wall of thousands of delphiniums, with each of his celebrity guests, including Rihanna, snapped in front of the flowers, in place of a standard branded backdrop.

Cropped jumpers with scalloped hems were worn over sheer, gauzey white gowns, while summer coats came in the shape of silky tailored shapes covered in giant bronze stripes and softened with sheer billowing sleeves and pleated hems.

Shoes were pointy and patent with straps wound around the ankle.

Mullet skirts and sheer fabrics have been a favourite this season, while Dior's cropped jumpers nod to '90s - the decade that is still leading many of designers' collections.

Up your shoe game with statement buckles - they were a big trend in Milan too. 


Just when it seems designers have pulled every trick in the book at their shows, Chalayan gives us dissolving coats.

Models in white military covers opened his show at the Palais des Beaux-Arts by stepping under a shower of water that washed away their coats to expose glittering Swarovski gowns.

Hussein Chalayan said: “Working with Swarovski challenges you to do things you wouldn't do. The really important thing about crystal is not to just put it on, it has to be integral to the idea. Crystal allows me to think inside out, so I try to think of what would work rather than just making something and putting crystal over it afterwards. It's a much more integrated approach to design”.

His other looks included ruffles shredded on loose gowns with exaggerated silhouettes and playful peplums on breezy prints.


A tactile, shrink-wrapped showing from Jonathan Anderson, with cellophane-look trousers, space-suit metallics and the overt branding we saw at Lanvin repeated on PVC suits. Ankle boots and accessories came in candy-coloured plastics and oversize bird motifs played throughout the collection.


A vivid sunset-inspired collection that was reflected in the painted-on smudges on the faces of models - a bold, fun beauty look that echoed the painterly vibes we saw in Milan at Max Mara and Missoni.


Stylist's shopping editor Lucy Reber has a few Paris Fashion Week essentials, including Office shoes, a Marni for H&M seashell necklace, Toni & Guy shampoo and conditioner...


Teddy Boy-esque tailored daywear gave way to rich jewel-coloured eveningwear at Lanvin.

Frayed pencil skirts were worn over iron-creased suit trousers and scarves were tied into huge bows at the neck.

Body-hugging cocktail dresses were branded and adorned with statement shoulder details or came in simple block colours with ballooned skirts or masses of sequins.


Along with the spectacular human backpacks at Rick Owens' show, there were some workable looks, especially the loose dresses with swirling patches of metallic tangerine.


All the Supers walked for Balmain, just hours after Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner were pictured on a night on the town in revealing Balmain for H&M outfits.

Hips and shoulders were forces for glamour in Olivier Rousteing's high-octane show. The collection was full of texture, with blocks of suede and lattice and fishnet effect dresses, skirts and shoes on a palette of black, white, burnt orange and primary blues and greens.

Shoulders were sharp and ruffles were extravagant, shown off to full effect with the models' slick tight and high ponytails. The knitted sequin minidress modelled by Alessandra Ambrosio looks ripe for a red carpet Kardashian outing.


Glitter, sparkle and silver hula skirts exploded onto the runway at Manish Arora's stunning presentation.

Nail artist Marian Newman let her imagination run wild. Thumbnails became little rabbits with pierced ears while fingers were etched with delicate swirls of gold.


Sea and sixties were the themes driving Carven's spring/summer 16 collection, with tropical print wrap skirts and dresses, youthful surfer chic t-shirts and circular cut-out detailing throughout the collection. Trousers were high-waisted “affirming their place as a mainstay of the Carven vocabulary”.


A definite change of pace at Chloe where the prairie feel of previous collections was replaced with a '90s homage. On other runways this has meant Clueless-style babydoll dresses and Ralph Lauren minimalism, but for Chloe's English creative director Clare Waight-Keller, the inspiration was Britpop, Kate Moss and Madchester rave.

Long floaty dresses came in rainbow stripes, while grungy jogging suits in sludge berry and beige and were mixed with floral skirts and halter tops. Denim was dark, baggy and rough around the edges.

Jada Pinkett Smith

Watched from front row at Chloe. See which other stars are in Paris.


Carine Roitfeld helps a model work her face at the launch of Roitfeld's collection for Uniqlo.


Sunglasses worthy of Jarvis Cocker, shiny pistachio-coloured leather and lacy yellow shoes - this is Rochas SS16.


Designers always strive to reinvent one of fashion's most dubious accessories - the bumbag. Alexis Mabille offered the latest new take on Thursday with these teeny waist rucksacks.


The rather brash SS16 runway trend for showing off your wares in see-through perspex bags had a chic evolution in Paris. Vionnet presented small boxy clutches that looked as if they were made from glass and dangling from faded golden chains. For those determined to keep their essentials hidden, soft leather zip bags were attached to sturdy handles for a graphic update to the '50s-style handbag. 

Fine jagged gold arm bracelets, huge swirling earrings and a brooch pinned to the front of a dusky pink bandeau gown were delicate complements to the soft nymph-inspired gowns.


Heavy chains and patchworks of fabric featured in Guy Laroche's camouflage and military-inspired collection.


Soft cape shoulders, muted metallics and sheer gauzey whites worked with lots of fishnet at Maison Margiela.

Sleek mini rucksacks were hung from thick double knotted cord tied into squiggly bows across the chest, with the same bows appearing on shoulders and waists.

We've got our eye on the rebellious studded cricket jumper tank top for summer.


Donatella Versace's Parisian protégé has got together with Lancôme to create three distinctive Hypnose palettes; Golden Black, Green Envy and Blue Mania.

The Golden Black, using bronze and shimmering nude shades, was used on the models at Vaccarello's show on Wednesday, along with a show-stopping red shade.

“For each of them, I see the shades as “new blacks,” like a shadow traversed by shimmer,” Vaccarello said. “Make-up is used more as an accessory, a symbol of a woman’s character and the palettes’ shades allow you to play around with countless effects.”

The palettes, which come in black-and-gold packaging and faux-leather sleeve are available from October 14 priced £38 each.

Pictures: Taken with the Sony Xperia Z5. Additional images: Getty, Rex Features

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Stylist Team