Fashion Week

Don't buy any new shoes before you see these runway trends

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Anna Pollitt
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Designers have been showcasing an eclectic mix of shoes at Fashion Week and a handful of trends have stuck.

As the '90s resurgence continues, so does the flatform evolution, while flowers and botanicals are proving surprisingly wearable sources of inspiration for designers.

Future-proof your next shoe investment with a look at the styles set to be kicking around until at least next autumn.

FLATFORMS

Bigger, bulkier and more polished styles are dominating spring/summer '17 runways in a variety of guises, from Preen's oversize bow sandal collaboration with Ugg, to Salvatore Ferragamo's swoonworthy knitted stretch sneaker (not sold? Bet you'll come around).

flatform sandals

L-R: Animal print at Proenza Schouler and an Ugg collaboration at Preen

FABRIC

Salvatore Ferragamo's runway smashers straddle two significant trends: flatform and fabric. The label that invented cork wedges has polished up the in-your-face sole with a narrower toe, earthy tones and a go-faster stripe. The knitted sock style uppers look delicate - not a word usually associated with the style - and modern. A sportier version in bright blue comes with a traditional trainer heel - but these are in no way made for running.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo spring/summer '17

Since Vetements has managed to make £1,000 SS16 sock boots a sell-out and Nike's flyknits are raking in $1 billion a year (with the sports giant in the process of patenting a steam machine to give wearers a bespoke fit) it's no surprise that designers are indulging in fabric influences for their new collections.

Fendi gave us sports sock boots with curved stripy heels in Milan, while at London Fashion Week, rising star Richard Malone stretched orange pop socks over the top of elegant heels and Mother of Pearl covered baby blue boots with a mini denim skirt.

shoes

Clockwise from top left: Mother of Pearl, Fendi and Richard Malone spring/summer '17

STUDS

From Valentino's iconic rock studs to Louboutin's rolling spikes, back-off shoes are always prime for reinvention and the clunky, chunky trend suggests studs are getting bigger and even more badass.

studs

L-R: Gucci and Coach spring/summer '17

FLORAL

Jimmy Choo has looked to tropical flowers for next spring, Giuseppe Zanotti embellished delicate sandals with glittering butterflies and used painted flower appliqués in his new collection, while Shrimps teamed up with Converse - like Ugg, another '90s celebrity staple - to bring us delicate pink floral sneakers.

Jimmy Choo

Jimmy Choo

Jimmy Choo spring/summer '17

Giuseppe Zanotti

Fausto Puglisi and J.W. Anderson played around with monochrome florals - Puglisi covering a pair of white leather boots in autumnal flowers and a squawking peacock, while Anderson splashed black and white daisies over graphic painterly blocks on smart brogues.

Fausto Puglisi and J.W. Anderson

L-R: Fausto Puglisi and J.W. Anderson

L-R: Fausto Puglisi and J.W. Anderson spring/summer '17

Sophia Webster and Gianvito Rossi's bold botanicals with a dark backdrop are the stuff of footwear dreams:  

Sophia Webster

Sophia Webster spring/summer '17

Sophia Webster spring/summer '17

Gianvito Rossi

gianvito rossi

Gianvito Rossi spring/summer '17

RETRO BOOTS

Austin Powers homages appeared with a sporty touch at Versace, an outrageous '70s vibe at Marc Jacobs and in pure swinging '60s form at Arthur Arbesser.

Clockwise from top left: Arthur Arbesser, Marc Jacobs and Versace

Clockwise from top left: Arthur Arbesser, Marc Jacobs and Versace spring/summer '17

GLADIATORS

Another Fashion Week revival; this season's take has the warrior spirit but offers a more uniform, elegant feel than previous runway outings. Fiddly lace-up have been replaced by discrete zips and toes came covered at Giorgio Armani.

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani spring/summer '17

Diesel Black Gold and Christian Siriano

shoes

L-R: Diesel Black Gold and Christian Siriano spring/summer '17

Sophia Webster

BLOCK HEELS

Always a fashion favourite, the new block heels are thick, high, structural slabs in soft, subtle colours. Made for loose trousers and crisp white shirts.

block heels

L-R: Paul Smith and Marni spring/summer '17

BABOUCHE

Tipped as the "it-shoe" of 2016, the Moroccan-style slipper is still inspiring designers into next year, with Narciso Rodriguez, Missoni and Santoni offering their own interpretations of the pointy-toed design. RIP, ballet pumps.

flats

Missoni (top) and Santoni spring/summer '17

Narciso Rodriguez

KITSCH DETAILS

Instagrammable whimsy is street style catnip and designers have been finding ever more creative ways to bring humour to summer shoes. Charlotte Olympia's smiling banana stiletto is so simple it's genius  - ditto Thom Browne's anchor heels - while Gianvito Rossi's cobweb design has redefined our Halloween outfit goals.

Charlotte Olympia, Marco De Vincenzo and Thom Browne

shoes

Clockwise from top left: Charlotte Olympia, Marco De Vincenzo and Thom Browne spring/summer '17

FLUFF AND FEATHERS

Back in 2015, Gucci unleashed the hairy loafer on the autumn/winter runways, fuelling the so-called "ugly" shoe trend. Christopher Kane's crocs are probably this season's equivalent when it comes to compelling awfulness (more on them later) but the fluffy-footed look has not disappeared entirely, with feathers sprawling out of sandal straps at Prada and gaudy yellow fur trailing off the heels of bejewelled metallic sandals at Libertine.

Prada and Libertine

feather shoes

Prada (top) and Libertine spring/summer '17

CROCS

They were touted as having had a "high fashion makeover" with marble print and crystal embellishments, but that plastic shell that first raised eyebrows - to put it mildly - in 2007 was unmistakeable Croc. Christopher Kane took a punt on the ultimate footwear underdog because, by his own admission, he loves their perception as being awkward, ugly and "extra clunky".

crocs

Christopher Kane spring/summer '17

Despite widespread scorn of the functional shoe, Croc sold nearly 30 million pairs in 2014 according to Bloomberg, so perhaps tapping into the ugly shoe trend with what is arguably the ugliest of ugly shoes was a savvy financial decision as well as a forward-thinking fashion move.

But can he make you love them? Stranger things have happened - like Kane's other unlikely hit, the desirable pool slider.

What the fashion team is wearing to Fashion Week

  • Lisa Smosarski, editor-in-chief - PFW

    Shirt: Maje at Nine in the Mirror
    Trousers: Isabella Oliver
    Shoes: Louboutin
    Bag: Mulberry

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - PFW

    Jumper: & Other Stories
    Trousers: Teatum Jones
    Shoes: Miu Miu
    Bag: JW Anderson

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - PFW

    Dress: & Other Stories
    Jacket: Schott
    Boots: Jimmy Choo
    Bag: JW Anderson
     

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - MFW

    Dress: The Edit
    Trainers: Adidas Gazelle at Schuh

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - MFW

    Shoes: Adidas Gazelle at Schuh

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Dress: Peter Pilotto at Matches
    Bag: Mulberry
    Shoes: Christian Louboutin
    Sunglasses: Celine

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Bag: Mulberry

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Shoes: Christian Louboutin

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Top: Maxmara at Net-a-porter
    Skirt: Stella McCartney at Browns
    Shoes: Jimmy Choo
    Bag: Alexander Wang

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Bag: Alexander Wang
     

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Shoes: Jimmy Choo

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - MFW

    Top: The Edit
    Jeans: Gap
    Shoes: Office

  • Detail: Lucy Reber, fashion editor - MFW

    Shoes: Office

  • Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - MFW

    Dress: Louis Vuitton
    Trainers: Adidas Stan Smith at Schuh

  • Lisa Smosarski, editor-in-chief - MFW

    Top: Cos
    Coat: Topshop
    Skirt: Whistles
    Bag: Fendi
    Shoes: Rupert Sanderson

  • Detail: Lisa Smosarski, editor-in-chief - MFW

    Bag: Fendi 

  • Detail: Lisa Smosarski, editor-in-chief - MFW

    Shoes: Rupert Sanderson

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Shirt: Stella McCartney at Browns
    Skirt: Isabel Marant at The Outnet
    Shoes: Jimmy Choo
    Bag: Alexander Wang at Very Exclusive

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Shirt: Stella McCartney at Browns

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Bag: Alexander Wang at Very Exclusive

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - MFW

    Shoes: Jimmy Choo
     

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - LFW

    Dress: Warehouse
    Shoes: Adidas at Schuh

  • Detail: Lucy Reber, fashion editor - LFW

    Shoes: Adidas at Schuh

  • Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - LFW

    Top: Topshop
    T shirt: Armani Exchange
    Skirt: 3.1 Phillip Lim
    Trainers: Adidas at Schuh

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Top: Miu Miu at The Outnet
    Jeans: Saint Laurent
    Bag: JW Anderson
    Shoes: Gianvito Rossi

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Shoes: Gianvito Rossi

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Bag: JW Anderson

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Jumper: Barbour
    Skirt: Whistles
    Bag: Mulberry
    Shoes: Jimmy Choo
     

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Bag: Mulberry

  • Detail: Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Shoes: Jimmy Choo

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - LFW

    T-shirt: Cos
    Skirt: Proenza Schouler at The Outnet
    Shoes:Adidas at Schuh
     

  • Detail: Lucy Reber, fashion editor - LFW

    Shoes: Adidas at Schuh

  • Alexandra Fullerton, fashion director - LFW

    Jumper: Marks & Spencer
    Skirt: Valentino
    Shoes: Jimmy Choo
    Bag: JW Anderson

  • Lucy Reber, fashion editor - LFW

    Top: Isa Arfen at The Outnet
    Roll neck: Great Plains
    Jeans: Current Elliott
    Trainers: Nike

  • Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    T-shirt: Levi's
    Jeans: Gap
    Shades: Fendi
    Shoes: Acne

     

  • Detail: Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    Jeans: Gap

    Shoes: Acne

  • Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Top: Topshop
    Skirt: Christopher Kane
    Bag: Victoria Beckham
    Shoes: Sophia Webster

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Shoes: Rupert Sanderson

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Bag: Victoria Beckham

  • Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    Top: Raey at matchesfashion.com
    Jeans: Gap
    Shoes: Louis Vuitton

     

  • Detail: Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    Shoes: Louis Vuitton

  • Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Top: JW Anderson
    Skirt: Joseph
    Bag: Strathberry
    Shoes: Mother of Pearl

     

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Bag: Strathberry

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Shoes: Mother of Pearl

  • Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    Dress: Tibi
    Bag: Theory
    Shoes: Birkenstock

     

  • Detail: Kitty McGee, executive fashion director - NYFW

    Bag: Theory

  • Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Dress: Zara
    Bag: Mulberry
    Trainers: Adidas Stan Smith at Schuh

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Bag: Mulberry

     

  • Detail: Susan Riley, deputy editor - NYFW

    Trainers: Adidas Stan Smith at Schuh

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Author

Anna Pollitt

Anna is a freelance writer and editor who’s been making her dime from online since 2007. She’s a regular at Stylist.co.uk, ITV News and Emerald Street and moonlights as a copywriter and digital content consultant. The baby is borrowed.

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