Joy and drama at Tomo Koizumi’s NYW debut.
Tomo Koizumi began the year working as a little-known costume designer who had never held a fashion show. Now, he’s the toast of New York Fashion Week.
World-leading models marched the runway in Koizumi’s electric collection of plumped-up rainbow ruffles on Friday, as fashion influencers rushed to share videos of his mesmerising creations.
In this fashion fairy tale, Tokyo-based Koizumi can be cast as Cinderella, while British super-stylist Katie Grand is the fairy godmother shaping his wildest dreams.
She came across the designer’s work on Instagram and decided to go about turning the 30-year-old into an overnight sensation.
Grand enlisted the help of Marc Jacobs, who graciously hosted Koizumi’s show in his Madison Avenue store, while industry titans Pat McGrath, Guido Palau and Jin Soon took care of the beauty side.
Bella Hadid, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, Taylor Hill, Rowan Blanchard and Emily Ratajkowski were among the runway headliners, all stepping out with glistening cheekbones and Palau’s sleeked-back crops, offset by jagged baby fringes.
And those vaporous dresses? Koizumi admits being led by “really random” influences. Sea slugs inspired his vivid colour palette, he told Love Magazine, while Japanese flower sculpture and Buddhist statues feature in an “inspiration book” the designer shared with Vogue.
Somewhat surprisingly, his favoured material is machine-washable polyester organza.
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Brought to #NYFW by stylist, creative director & collaborator @KeGrand, Tokyo-based designer @TomoKoizumi debuted his first NYFW runway collection tonight at #MarcJacobsMadison. Thank you @TomoKoizumi for bringing your talent, color and joy to our new uptown platform for art, design and discovery. ❤️
Frothy candy hues in bubble silhouettes made way for a majestic voluminous showstopper worn by Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie, while Ratajkowski’s swan-like mini dress and razor-sharp crop offered an eye-catching departure from her signature beach style.