Fashion Week

Why everyone’s talking about this rising star designer at NYFW

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Anna Pollitt
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Tomo Koizumi

Joy and drama at Tomo Koizumi’s NYW debut.

Tomo Koizumi began the year working as a little-known costume designer who had never held a fashion show. Now, he’s the toast of New York Fashion Week. 

World-leading models marched the runway in Koizumi’s electric collection of plumped-up rainbow ruffles on Friday, as fashion influencers rushed to share videos of his mesmerising creations.

Bella Hadid

Bella Hadid walking in Tomo Koizumi’s debut show 

In this fashion fairy tale, Tokyo-based Koizumi can be cast as Cinderella, while British super-stylist Katie Grand is the fairy godmother shaping his wildest dreams. 

She came across the designer’s work on Instagram and decided to go about turning the 30-year-old into an overnight sensation. 

Tomo Koizumi takes a bow

Tomo Koizumi takes a bow

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Grand enlisted the help of Marc Jacobs, who graciously hosted Koizumi’s show in his Madison Avenue store, while industry titans Pat McGrath, Guido Palau and Jin Soon took care of the beauty side. 

Tomo Koizumi

Pat McGrath created a metallic lavender eye for Tomo Koizumi

Bella Hadid, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, Taylor Hill, Rowan Blanchard and Emily Ratajkowski were among the runway headliners, all stepping out with glistening cheekbones and Palau’s sleeked-back crops, offset by jagged baby fringes. 

And those vaporous dresses? Koizumi admits being led by “really random” influences. Sea slugs inspired his vivid colour palette, he told Love Magazine, while Japanese flower sculpture and Buddhist statues feature in an “inspiration book” the designer shared with Vogue.

Somewhat surprisingly, his favoured material is machine-washable polyester organza.

Frothy candy hues in bubble silhouettes made way for a majestic voluminous showstopper worn by Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie, while Ratajkowski’s swan-like mini dress and razor-sharp crop offered an eye-catching departure from her signature beach style.

Gwendoline Christie

Gwendoline Christie in a voluminous fishtail hemmed gown

Images: Getty

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Anna Pollitt

Anna is a freelance writer and editor who’s been making her dime from online since 2007. She’s a regular at Stylist.co.uk, ITV News and Emerald Street and moonlights as a copywriter and digital content consultant.

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