As the working week gets under way, London Fashion Week rolls into its penultimate day. Our fashion assistant, Morag Paterson reports from behind the scenes and the front row to bring you the latest LFW happenings. Read her blog below.
10.15am - Just out of Holly Fulton
Holly Fulton’s autumn / winter show is entitled ‘Kiss me Quick, Squeeze me Slow’ which “pays tribute to the powers of love, romance and the magic of seduction.” Inspired by Coco Chanel’s stay in Scotland during a mad love affair with the Duke of Westminster, Fulton (who is originally from Scotland) as always added bright quirky accents to otherwise chic clean-lined silhouettes.
Spikes were used to embellish in pattern formations or as an extra touch at hemlines. Fulton’s statement Swarovski crystal infused jewellery (her collar necklaces returned this season) was important, alongside her figure-hugging dresses. Silk wide leg patterned palazzo trousers strode down the runway, with simple spaghetti strap tops to add a new dimension and a more grown-up vibe, whilst bold cut-out red lips gave a hint of colour and fun. Sky-high spiked Louboutins (which gave the models a tough time) and spiked clutch bags finished the looks.
Favourite look: A simple bright yellow shift dress with a black patterned sheer panel at the back, paired with a stunning collar necklace.
10.30am - Waiting backstage to talk to David Koma after his show
First on today's schedule was the amazingly talented David Koma who I interviewed in the magazine a couple of issues ago. His inspiration for the new much-anticipated collection was "avant-garde art, in particular the work of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama" who is renowned for her "obsession with repetition and pattern."
Focusing primarily on spot motifs, David used beautifully intricate laser cut detailing and embroidery on a varied range of textures, from cashmere wool to soft leather. His signature bodycon silhouette dominated with tiny waists, textured pannelling and clever curved seam detailing which contoured the body. Patches of fur were incorporated to embellish and add touches of colour and Leigh Bowery's masked face emblazoned dresses. Another amazing collection from King Koma.
Spotted: Samantha Cameron front row
12.30pm Quick lunch stop post Christopher Kane’s show
Christopher Kane took on a more wearable, commercial direction for his autumn / winter collection, full of beautiful slick black trousers and edge on edge coats. He worked his magic and made crochet sexy and contemporary and used liquid filled plastic with scalloped edges to accent hem, neck and waistlines of chic black dresses. Necklines were daringly low to half way down the torso and dresses were cut at the knee. A beautiful collection, but did it slightly lack the Christopher Kane signature innovative flare?
3.15pm - Todd Lynn
Todd Lynn's collection was inspired by revolt. Model's faces were hidden behind high collars which shrouded the body. Draping was key for silhouettes whilst red, grey and black leather panelling dominated. Elbow length leather gloves were used to style and and add the finishing touch to almost every look. Cleverly, Lynn opted for a heavy drum beat instead of a show soundtrack.
3.30pm - En route to Burberry Prorsum
In the University of Westminster Erdem unveiled a collection of velvet, watercolour prints in teal and burgundy, reminiscent of Monet's 'Water Lillies'. Silhouettes took on simple strict shapes.
The soundtrack was classical and as always there was an impressive front row: Alexa Chung and Yasmin Le Bon sent the photographers crazy. Models had fish plaited hair.
6.15pm - Just out of Mark Fast
Mark Fast sealed his reputation as London's king of knits with his signature body-con pieces, initially shown on plus-sized models. However tonight the Canadian designer proved himself to be one of the most innovative designers on the London catwalk with a strong, modern collection of knits, leather and sheer mesh pieces that moved on from his Spring showing of flashy, sexy, jewelled dresses. Although most of the girls at tonight's show were sample sized three curvy girls walked in the show (refreshing to see) and which Janice Dickinson and Jo Wood watched from the front row - after tussling with the super strict security. Fast's palette of warm creamy neutrals, slick black, rich burgundy and russet orange were all set off by the ruby red soles of Christian Louboutin shoes. Of course there were several of Fast's signature sexy knit mini-dresses (which London party girls love to buy and wear) but he adventurously worked with big sculpted shoulders and an exquisite wool ballgown which swept the floor. Stone suede and black leather tunics were chic and will prove more wearable for everyday wear.
6pm - Post Paul Smith’s show
Paul Smith stuck to his signature clean-lined tailoring for his new autumn/winter show held in the beautiful ballroom at The Savoy. Taking on a masculine androgynous look, the collection featured sleek cropped trousers paired with ribbed socks and patent brogues (styled with no laces), pinstripe tailoring, shirts buttoned up to the collar paired with the odd tie, prim and proper waistcoats and granddad chunky cardigans slung off the shoulders over blazers. The tailored pencil skirt was reworked as a maxi floor-skimming length and there were colourful injections in the form of sleek bright orange coats, purple pipe trim pockets, lime green skinny belts and purple cropped tailored trousers.
9.30pm - Stylist's Fashion Director Alexandra Fullerton reports from Julien Macdonald
The show was was held in a disused church in Mayfair. The air was heavy with incense. And with pre-show tweets hinting at a rock soundtrack we should have guessed that Julien Macdonald was going goth for Autumn. This was confirmed when the first girl stomped out onto the catwalk to a death metal accompaniment. Before Mark Fast, Macdonald was the king of sexy knitted dresses (as worn by Kelly Brook) but now with a new direction (and new PR team) he's proving that he is a versatile and valid designer that can initiate and pre-empt major trends.
Rich black velvet, intricate gold and silver embroidery and delicate lace details set the mood of the show, which managed to be ethereal and tough at the same time. With flashes of blackwatch tartan, cable jumpers and gauzy holey cobweb knits, the collection felt like an ode to the Highlands. These are clothes to run across moors in or, alternatively, the glamourous gold-detailled gowns would make a stunning red carpet entrance for some young actress.
Spotted: Janice Dickinson, Juliette Lewis and Margot Stilley were all eyeing up the collection from their front row seats.