Milan Fashion Week: Gucci A/W12

Gucci's show marks the start of Milan Fashion Week. The shows in this city are where the trends we've seen in New York and London start to become clear and where other exciting influences, that can change the mood and direction of the season, emerge.

Words: Alexandra Fullerton, picture credit: Getty Images

In a theatre lined with smokey mirrored walls, supermodel and Stylist cover star, Alek Wek took her seat in the front row to watch a collection described in the show notes as 'a touch of noir.' There was more than a flash of black, with the inky hue making up most of the collection, alongside key autumnal shades of khaki, forest green, chocolate and damson. The girls strode out to an orchestral adaptation of Kraftwerk's 'She's a Model' in a voluminous yet modern collection, where silhouettes veered from cocooning menswear shapes (especially for the outerwear), ballooning sheer chiffon sleeves (showing off bare skin beneath) and slick pencil skirts.

Some looks felt distinctly androgynous (great coats over trousers) while others - a forest green velvet gown which fell to the floor from an off the shoulder neckline or an emerald green Devore velvet leopard print gown - were reminiscent of the dresses a Medieval fairytale heroine would wear (echoing the heraldic mood at Giles' London show.) The finale passage consisted of magically sheer tulle gowns - with arms and shoulders covered - encrusted with shimmering sequins that 'grew' over the dresses in deep moss and plum tones. A very modern fairytale.