Theo says: “Potato gnocchi is not complicated to make, and the general rule is, the less flour used the lighter the gnocchi. It is best eaten on the day it is made, and in Rome they always eat it on a Thursday. You will see signs outside trattorias saying what the week’s specialities are, and Thursday is always gnocchi day. It tastes the same any day of the week but, it just goes to show it has to be eaten fresh.

“The brown butter, asparagus and fresh ricotta taste delicious with the soft, chewy potato gnocchi and crispy sage. Thank god it’s Thursday!”

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

1kg (2lb 3oz) Désirée (or other red) potatoes, similar size, washed with skins on
2 eggs, beaten
200g (7oz) Tipo 00 flour, plus extra for dusting
300g (10½oz) asparagus spears, tough stems removed, sliced at an angle into 2cm (¾in) pieces
150g (5½oz) unsalted butter
12 sage leaves
1 garlic clove, finely sliced
150g (5½oz) parmesan, finely grated
200g (7oz) ricotta, seasoned with sea salt, freshly ground
black pepper and olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Add the potatoes to a large saucepan, fill the pan with cold water and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and cook gently for 30 minutes. Check by pushing a skewer through; if there is no resistance, they are cooked. Drain into a colander.

When the potatoes are a bit cooler, but still warm, cut them in half and, using a tablespoon, scoop out the insides. Push the flesh through a potato ricer or mouli, into a bowl. Add the eggs, then fold in the flour. Place the mixture on a floured work surface and lightly knead with your hands until all the ingredients have combined well.

Divide into 4 equal pieces and roll each into a long sausage, using the palms of each hand. Cut each long sausage into 3cm (1¼in) pieces and dust a little flour on top. Take each piece and roll it over the back of an upturned folk (see overleaf), then place carefully in a single layer on a floured tray. Place the tray in the fridge but do not cover with cling film (plastic wrap) as the gnocchi will become soggy. If you want to cover them to cook the next day, cover with baking paper and secure with large elastic bands.

Heat a large pan of boiling salted water, add the asparagus and cook for 3 minutes, then remove and keep to one side, keeping the water to cook the gnocchi in later.

Add half the butter to a hot, large, non-stick frying pan and cook over a medium heat until the butter starts to foam, then add the sage and cook until the leaves go crispy and the butter slightly brown. Take out the crispy sage with a slotted spoon and transfer the browned butter to a bowl.

Add the remaining butter to the hot frying pan you just cooked the sage in, over a low heat, and add the garlic and cooked asparagus.

Bring the asparagus cooking water back to the boil, then add the gnocchi a few at a time. When all the gnocchi are in the water and are starting to rise, take them out with a slotted spoon and place them in the frying pan with the asparagus, adding a ladleful or two of the cooking water. Add half the parmesan, wiggle the pan and stir the gnocchi gently so they don’t break.

Once the sauce has emulsified and the gnocchi are coated, serve in warm pasta bowls with the seasoned ricotta, fried sage and reserved browned butter on top of each. Finish with the remaining parmesan and plenty of black pepper.

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