Patrick Martinez, founder of The Tinned Fish Market, has witnessed this anchovy boom first hand. “They’re one of our biggest sellers,” he says. “When we launched, we stocked one type of anchovy, but we’ve recently grown our range; now, we have 14 different kinds.”

The key to a good anchovy, Martinez says, is in the salt (or lack of it). “They can often be overly salty because salt gives anchovies a longer shelf-life, but the higher the quality, the less salt tends to be used,” he explains. “When you’re eating them as the main event, it’s best to go with anchovies that are less salty and more rich.” Martinez’s favourite brand is Olasagasti, a Spanish company that produces luxe tins using extra-virgin olive oil and has been a hit with customers at his Borough Market stall who, he says, often visit after being inspired by TikTok recipes for tinned fish.

Content creator Maddi Neye-Swift (@cripandip) agrees that TikTok has had a part to play in the anchovy’s rise to cult status. “Previously I would have thought of tinned fish as a sort of ‘I’ve run out of fresh food for the week, so what can I find in my cupboard for lunch?’ vibe,” she explains. “But with ‘tinned fish nights’ and ‘girl dinner’ going viral on TikTok, people’s perceptions of it have completely changed. Cracking open a tin of anchovies and pairing them with a cracker for a quick snack feels almost like self-care to me.”

How anchovies became *the* ingredient of the moment (and the 5 buzziest places to eat them)

How anchovies became the ingredient of the moment (and the 5 buzziest places to eat them)