Alice Zaslavsky says: “Latkes are a staple food of one of Judaism’s most popular holidays, Hannukah. The ‘Festival of Lights’, as it is otherwise known, celebrates the lighting of a one-day supply of oil that lasted for eight days instead of one night – kind of like your smartphone sitting on 1% for a whole week. Clearly a miracle.

“This miracle is marked by yet another one – eating your weight in oily food, from doughnuts to fried fish, to my personal favourite, fried starchy veg. These latkes, which are essentially rösti by another name, are most often made with potato, which is absolutely delicious if that’s all you have, but if you’re packin’ parsnips, add some in and you’ll end up with a remarkably lighter, sweeter, miraculous canapé – no matter what you’re celebrating.”

Makes 16-18 (depending on size)

Ingredients

1 roasting or baking potato (160g), washed and scrubbed (no need to peel)
2 medium-large parsnips (360g), washed and scrubbed (no need to peel)
1 French shallot (or small brown onion), peeled
½ teaspoon salt flakes, plus extra for sprinkling
½ lemon
2 eggs
35g plain gluten-free flour (or matzo meal)
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
125ml sunflower oil and/or peanut oil

Serving suggestions:

salmon roe
smoked salmon
crème fraîche
dill or chervil sprigs
lemon wedges

Method

Line a bowl with muslin. Coarsely grate the potato, parsnip and shallot into the bowl. Add the salt and squeeze in the lemon juice. Pop the used lemon half in a small bowl of water and reserve.
Combine the mixture with your hands, squeezing out any excess moisture. Twist the cloth into a swag, using a wooden spoon as a tourniquet, and hang this over the bowl to catch the liquid; you can also use a sieve or colander to keep it elevated. Let the liquid stand undisturbed for at least five minutes to let the starch settle.
Beat the eggs in another bowl using a fork. Add the potato mixture, along with the flour and pepper. Scoop out the starch that has settled on the bottom of the first bowl (it’ll feel like runny glue) and add this to the bowl as well.
Use your hands or a wooden spoon to combine all the ingredients very well, almost as you would a meat patty. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large, high-sided frying pan. Test that it’s ready by adding a little of the mixture – it should sizzle and colour almost immediately.
Line a baking tray with paper towel. Using a 60ml measuring cup, scoop out equal portions of the latke mix and shape into flat patties, dipping your hands in your bowl of reserved lemon water every now and then to stop the mixture sticking to your hands.
Working in batches, fry the latkes for 3–4 minutes on each side, until golden. Drain on paper towel, sprinkling with extra salt flakes as soon as they come out of the oil. (If you like, you can pop them on a wire rack over a baking tray and keep in a 100°C oven until all the latkes are ready.)
Serve warm, as the base for all manner of schmears and toppings – my favourite is the classic crème fraiche (or sour cream) and smoked salmon (or salmon roe), garnished with dill or chervil.

From In Praise Of Veg: A Modern Kitchen Companion by Alice Zaslavsky (£25, Murdoch Books), out now

Hanukkah 2023: 3 delicious recipes to celebrate the Jewish festival of lights