Eric says: Every time we have pork for dinner, my mother always says, “I think my body likes it when I eat pork.” Her affinity for pork—especially the fatty cuts from the ribs, belly, and shoulder—underpins a general theory I have regarding her past life as a tiger (her Korean zodiac sign). But the thing is, my mother never cooked pork chops growing up, which I’ve always found interesting considering pork features in so much of her daily cooking, and indeed in Korean cuisine.

Years later, in high school, I found that pork chops could be total lifesavers when I needed a quick, lean protein for dinner, not to mention they happened to be surprisingly affordable, especially the thin ones. As I fried them for myself after school, Jean would come home from work and take bites out of any leftovers, which would be sitting on the kitchen counter covered in plastic wrap. Because of this, for Jean, pork chops have always seemed American. Which is funny because to me they taste Korean. When seasoned simply with salt and pepper, they remind me of samgyeopsal, or grilled pork belly, the kind you’d eat at a Korean barbecue restaurant, just from a different life and with less fat (not that there’s anything wrong with a little lard).

I love this preparation on thick, bone-in chops, too, as the simple palate lets you taste the pork as it is: rich, meaty, and just a touch gamey (but in the best way). It’ll make you go: Oh, that’s what pork tastes like. For an even cook, these pork chops get pan-fried for a couple minutes per side, then finished in the oven. A simple dipping sauce of sesame oil, salt, pepper, and brown sugar adds a third element, nuttiness, and echoes the samgyeopsal inspiration. The scallions here are a nod to pa muchim, that wonderful gochugaru-slicked scallion salad that often accompanies samgyeopsal to cut the richness of the meat with its sharp allium power.”

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the pork chops:

2 tsp kosher salt
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp dark brown sugar
2 bone-in pork chops, 1 inch thick (about 280g each)
2 tbsp vegetable oil

For the vinegared scallions:

4 scallions, cut into 3-inch segments, then thinly sliced lengthwise into strips
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp gochugaru
Pinch of dark brown sugar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

To finish:

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dark brown sugar
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
Cooked white rice, for serving

Method

Prepare the pork chops: In a small bowl, stir together the salt, pepper, and brown sugar. Sprinkle the rub generously on both sides of the pork chops and let them dry-brine at room temperature for 30 minutes or up to one hour (any longer and you’ll end up with deli meat).

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

When ready to cook, blot both sides of the pork chops with a paper towel (removing the moisture will help you get a nicely browned crust) and smear the oil on both sides of each pork chop with your hands.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until very, very hot (you might see a wisp of smoke). Sear the pork chops until nicely browned, two minutes on the first side, then repeat on the second side, just one minute this time.

Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until the internal temperature of the meat reaches 62°C, eight to 10 minutes (with a thick pork chop, to get an accurate read, you’ll need to use tongs to hold the chop and then carefully insert the thermometer laterally from the side). Remove the pan from the oven and set the pork chops aside on two serving plates to rest while you prepare the scallion salad and dipping sauce.

Make the vinegared scallions: In a medium bowl, toss together the scallions, vinegar, gochugaru, and brown sugar. Season generously with salt and pepper and scatter messily over the pork chops.

To finish: Make the dipping sauce by adding a pinch each of salt, pepper, and brown sugar to two small dishes. Add one tablespoon sesame oil to each dish and stir until the sugar dissolves.

Serve each scallion-bedecked pork chop alongside a mound of white rice and the dipping sauce on the side. For the perfect bite, what I like to do is carve the meat with a fork and knife and drag each piece through the dipping sauce before eating with some of the scallions. Then, for relief, I chase that nutty, salty, sour, and sweet flavor bomb with a bite of white rice.

Korean American: 3 recipes from popular food columnist Eric Kim