It’s 11.06pm on a Wednesday and, inevitably, I’m caught in a content rabbit hole. Tonight it’s #ButterTok, a corner of TikTok that has amassed nearly 660 million views at the time of writing. It should come with a disclaimer: Hungry? Enter at your own risk.

In one post, hand-churned butter clouds are paddled into glossy golden bricks; another shows unctuous quenelles, neatly coiled, glistening with sea salt. Swipe on, and artful schmears decorate a platter once reserved for charcuterie (#ButterBoard has almost 480 million views). Next, how to make the viral butter candle. Before you ask, it’s exactly what it sounds: a solid butter sculpture moulded around a wick that burns and melts the butter as it goes. BYOB. Bring Your Own Bread. How times have changed.

Butter is back – and it’s bougier than ever