The bread: white sourdough, sliced finger-thick. This is not the time for wholesome seeded types – and width really matters here too. You want to slice the bread thinly enough (but not too thinly) so that the cheese melts without burning the outside.

The cheese: a deeply savoury and sharp cheese, like extra mature cheddar. I am a big fan of Lincolnshire Poacher or Black Bomber. I always grate my cheese, because it melts more evenly and you can cover the bread right to the edges: joy.

The filling: if I’m going full native (Indian) I’ll add a thin layer of mango chutney, some finely chopped red onion and an ear-tickling amount of green chilli too.

Cook it: I heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan and wait until it is shimmering hot, then I lower the sandwich in, turn the heat down and pop my stone mortar bowl on it (but you could use any clean weight). Then, I leave it for around 3 minutes, flip it and repeat until the outer edges are golden and the cheese inside is molten.

Serve with: at the very least some mango chutney or ketchup.

The secret: patience. When the mood for a cheese toastie strikes, the need is urgent and you rush, burning the bread and ending up without oozing cheese. The horror!

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