We know what is sensible. We know moderation is key, and, unless you have a diagnosed food allergy, cutting out an entire food group is neither necessary or healthy. That the ‘magical foods’ – coconut oil, spirulina, apple cider vinegar – are mythical and not remotely magical at all. That the scare studies which claim a certain food either causes or cures cancer are nonsense. We are smart women. And yet we want to believe.

“Even I have fallen into this trap, despite knowing all the science around it,” admits Dr Winters. “I once went on a diet prescribed by a personal trainer where I only ate eggs… of course I didn’t last a day.”

Why do we continue to buy into these regimes and detoxes and cleanses when we’re smart enough to know the loopholes? “We’re looking for this magical panacea for health and we’re taught if we micromanage our food and our exercise we’ll have more control over our health outcomes,” Thomas says.

“If you eat the superfood you won’t get cancer or cardiovascular disease, all the while ignoring the fact that health isn’t just predicated by diet and exercise but by genetics, medicine, smoking, alcohol, whether you live in safe housing, mental health and so on.”

Food guilt: why do so many women have a complex relationship with food?