DAY TWO

On day two we decided to explore beyond the city centre, and after a healthy breakfast at Klausk (they have a strong focus on well-prepared fresh, healthy and nutritious products), we took the 15-minute ferry ride from the market square to Suomenlinna.

The ‘fortress of Finland’ was built in the 18th century on a group of six islands at the entrance of Helsinki's harbour. We were there at the right time to take advantage of the daily English language-guided walk, which proved the perfect opportunity to grasp a basic knowledge of Finnish history. The landscape and the architecture of the fortress have been shaped by historic events, having served to defend three different sovereign states over the years: the kingdom of Sweden, the Russian empire and the republic of Finland. And the ferry trip across the sea is a small adventure in itself, playing ‘how many islands can you count along the way?’ with my niece.

We then wanted somewhere we could settle to eat and enjoy a few drinks without feeling rushed. A local friend recommends Treffi Pub & Bistro, 10 minutes from the city on the metro, and it’s exactly what we’re after – a cosy, family-friendly gastropub with delicious food (their reindeer carpaccio is one of the best things I’ve ever tasted), a good drinks selection and live music.

DAY THREE

The following morning, we caught the 11.30 am Viking Line ferry that would take us across the water to Tallinn. We stood out on the deck and watched Helsinki fade into the distance until it felt like long enough since breakfast and the right side of midday for my sister and I to justify taking advantage of the ship’s Bistro Buffet, while the rest of the family take the kids enjoy to the play area (with a ball pool!). There’s also a youth room full of games consoles.

We had no set plan when we arrived in Tallinn a couple of hours later, other than a bag drop at the Three Sisters Hotel, three renovated 1362 merchant houses set in the city’s medieval Old Town. But you don’t need an itinerary. There’s plenty to get out of meandering around the cobblestone streets, taking in sights like ancient church spires and the gothic town hall. The city is fascinating to explore, whatever your age.

We also stumbled upon St Catherine’s Passage – home to the remains of St Catherine’s Church and ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary, along with numerous craft workshops where artists use traditional methods to make and sell everything from glassware, ceramics and jewellery to hats and quilts.

Still, there’s only so much you want to rely on chance when it’s chilly out so we booked ahead for dinner at Rataskaevu 16 where the atmosphere is cosy, and the exposed brick walls and dishes such as braised elk roast give it a distinctly authentic feel.

Cross the Baltic Sea