But if, like me, you were lured here by the landscape, you’ll be chomping at the bit to get out in it. Helpfully, that’s not difficult. Quiet roads and sea tunnels mean driving around – and between – the main islands of Streymoy, Eysturoy and Vágar is easy, and most journeys won’t take more than an hour from Tórshavn (though do book ahead as there are a limited number of cars – the same applies to hotels and restaurants: this isn’t a holiday you can wing).

However, if you want to explore the more far-flung islands, the state-subsidised helicopter taxis (flights from as little as £14) are a much quicker – and more glamorous – option. With helicopters grounded by the fog that often drapes the uplands in summer, we drive one of the ‘Buttercup’ routes an hour north from Tórshavn, gawping at the lushly dramatic scenery (even the small prison, perched above a lake, looks like a superbly situated hotel).

The village of Saksun sums up the landscape perfectly: at the foot of this grass-roofed hamlet, a tiny church sits amid impossibly green meadows sprinkled with sheep, while, on either side, craggy mountains plunge into a lagoon formed by the fjord. At low tide you can walk round the headland to what locals call the ‘hidden beach’.

That evening we eat at the home of farmers Anna and Oli in Velbastaour – an experience called heimablídni (‘home hospitality’) available across the islands (see visitfaroeislands.com). I’m not sure what I expected, but it wasn’t a house worthy of its own Pinterest board (complete with hot tub and stunning views of neighbouring island Koltur) and a five-course meal to put most supper clubs to shame.

Between serving us dishes of bacalao (salt cod), their own lamb, and rhubarb (one of the few things grown on the islands) ice cream, plus locally brewed Okkara beer, Anna and Oli chat to us about their life here. The Faroese – population: 50,000 – claim to be the happiest people in the world* and watching the sun turn the sky into coral swirls, I’m not surprised.

Perhaps the only thing the islands are missing is luxury accommodation – Hotel Føroyar in Tórshavn is perhaps the closest you get to it. But you come to the Faroes for adventure, not luxury, and there’s plenty of that to be found.

Discover wild scenery and chic design in the Faroe Islands