Why is it hot?

Bali is a tale of two holidays. There are the party towns such as Kuta and Nusa Dua where bars spill out into the street and holidaymakers soak up the hot nights (temperatures rarely drop below 25°C) and garishly coloured cocktails. But then there are the spectacular, isolated five-star resorts that are so different from the busy hubs, it’s hard to believe they share the same landmass. And the four Alila resorts, of which we’re visiting two, rest in this latter category.

Our first destination, Alila Villas Soori, is set on the Indonesian island’s southwest coast and, thankfully, we arrive just in time for breakfast. They say the way to someone’s heart is through their stomach and at our first taste of Indonesian cooking, I really fall hard – we opt for the traditional Nasi Goreng (fried rice), which we eat while watching the waves lap the black volcanic sand.

Actually, the waves do rather more than lap – the Balinese coast is a surfer’s paradise, so swimming is a bad idea unless you’re Rebecca Adlington. But luckily, our villa suite at Alila Soori has its own – far more placid – pool, surrounded by cushion-strewn day beds and with much better access to the mini bar. We could jump from our living room into the crystal-blue water below.

The modern lines of the villas are softened by lush bamboo hedges; floor to ceiling glass doors give incredible views over the sea and paddy fields and huge beds and minimal furnishings add to the sense of luxury.

Tempting as it was to stay poolside for the whole three days, occasionally popping into the chic villa to change the tunes on the pre-loaded iPod that comes as standard, we reluctantly pack up and head to Alila’s second all-villa hotel. Close to the bustling, five-star resort of Seminyak, Alila Villas Uluwatu offers the best of both worlds. Set on the edge of a cliff, the sea views sea are extraordinary, but only the extremely energetic would be tempted to walk down (or, worse, back up again) the 600 steps for a swim. It feels delightfully secluded from the world.

This feeling is further enhanced by the villas themselves, which are surrounded by lemongrass to keep the mosquitos at bay (it really works – we weren’t bitten once). They are clad in flat lava rocks, decorated in local wood and rattan and all feature outdoor rain showers. The only noise you can hear while lounging in your private pool house is the occasional rumble of the golf buggies used to transport guests around. Or perhaps your private butler knocking on the door with a basket of rose petals to scatter on the bed

Find an island idyll on the quiet side Of Bali