Best place for a Beer

Brazilians are actually mad about beer. Everyone will tell you it’s non-stop cocktails (it’s that too) but the thing they do magnificently is beer. And I don’t even like beer. They call it a Choppy or a Chopp and they serve it in tiny freezing cold glasses and the whole thing is basically froth. Charming boys with twinkly eyes carry these tiny receptacles on massive trays and every time you finish your thimble of ice-cold refreshing beer foam, another one is popped in front of you. It’s mesmerising. The first Choppy night I had, I had to be carried home after proposing to a toucan. True story. The second you land I suggest you get a cab to the Bar Astor (barastor.com.br) on Ipanema right next to the ocean and order a Chopp (R$5.90; £1.60) at once. I found it on the first day and never really wanted to go anywhere else. The snacks are amazing too. Order the Queijo Pastel (a sort of cheese pastry appetizer, R$6.10; £1.75).

Best place for a ‘moment’

To be blunt, Brazil is dramatic. A couple having a row on the street is dramatic, the mountains that lace the city are dramatic, the way people order pizza is dramatic. Everything is BIG, nothing is subtle and there are just very DRAMATIC places to sit. If you’re looking for a sort of nothing-too-exciting-prettyout- of-the-way-forgettable-kind-ofplace then Rio is simply not for you. If you’re there with your girlfriend/ boyfriend/child/friend then can I suggest you buy some corn or a fresh churro (the street food is mind blowing) and a couple of beers and head to the Arpoador Rocks. They’re a small crop of um, rocks and the waves smash up against them and the sun shoots dramatically either up from the ocean (6am) or down into it (6pm) and it’s just a great DRAMATIC Rio thing to do.

Best place for a game of volleyball

Now, you know I don’t believe in exercise and I think sweating is both unsavoury and actually not good for you. Well, volleyball is different. You just have to do it in Brazil. Kids play all day and then grown-ups descend onto the beach in tiny shorts/bikinis at about 8pm holding homemade jugs of caipirinha and a ball. If you are heading there, find Pele (yes, that’s his name) on Ipanema Beach at lifeguard station 10. I even have his number for you – 00 55 21 97025794.

Claudia Winkleman reviews Rio