We’re staying at the rather charming Tótem in the Salamanca district (think Kensington with tonnes more shops) which, aside from serving excellent cocktails in the Gatsby-esque bar (have the margarita) is perfectly placed to have a good night’s sleep. Especially because Madrid never seems to sleep; not getting going until about 11pm, with siestas required to give you staying power - so Salamanca is a nice and peaceful antidote in the wee hours of the morning.

Feeling like Brydon and Coogan in The Trip, we start our culinary tour with two highly recommended restaurants: TriCiclo and La Gabinoteca. The former is one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had - a leisurely lunch made up of lots of little dishes like Mexican style oysters, sea bass ceviche and beef short rib macaroni. The latter is good food but I can't help feeling they’re more concerned with getting the next round of punters in.

Get over your tapas aversion in Madrid