About 45 minutes by bus from Nosy Be’s airport – along roads flanked by bustling markets and puffed-up chickens pecking away at the dirt – you’ll find the Vanila Hotel. Unpretentious and friendly, it’s a beautiful, airy space just a few steps from the beach. There are 56 rooms and suites (some with garden views, some overlooking the ocean), a picturesque infinity pool and consistently smiley staff.

You could while away days here lolling on the pristine sand, but I’m more of a get-out-and-explore kind of traveller, so after checking in I make it my mission to see how the locals live. I strongly believe that you don’t get a true feel for a place if you just surround yourself with other holidaymakers. Instead, I love walking down side streets, getting lost and having chats with the locals (I ask a lot of questions, but they never seem to get annoyed).

If you’re travelling solo, booking onto small group excursions is also a great way to meet people and get under the skin of a destination. So after taking advantage of the hotel’s wifi to book up my week, I spend the next few days enjoying some fascinating day trips.

Ellie Simmonds finds tranquility off the coast of Madagascar