Spa stop three was Pärnu: a popular summer spot for Estonians a two-hour bus ride south from Tallinn. Adjacent to long, golden sandy beaches, the streets are lined with colourful wooden buildings that strike a distinctive Fifties surfer beach feel, and the water is shallow; in the summer it can reach 26 degrees for that wonderful warm bath feeling. Grab lunch at Supelsaksad where, continuing the retro vibe, waitresses wear polka dots while serving up coffee and cakes.

Pärnu as a resort town dates back to 1838 – photographs show topless bathers as far back as the 1900s and a women-only nudist beach remains – and its Hedon Spa is a magnificent architectural temple famed for its ancient experience packages and use of mud. I have the Journey To Ancient Estonia (from €80): a two-hour treatment based on traditional Nordic therapies to give you back your balance and lost strength. Made up of a birch branch sauna, skin-exfoliating mud wrap and ancient Estonian massage involving organic local hemp and carrot oil known as soonetasumine, translating roughly as “vessel repayment”, it’s a treatment that forms part of traditional Estonian folk wisdom in its purest sense.

If I had more time, I would have visited one of the country’s many eco spas. The Organic Spa Harmoonikum is the first Beer Spa in Estonia, featuring a wood-burning steam sauna and craft beer baths. I’m intrigued to find out how two of my favourite things can be mixed together: beer and relaxation.

So if you enjoy a road trip and want the stress (quite literally) taken out of planning it, this is for you.

Stays at Swissôtel in Tallinn start from £133*, swissotel.com/hotels/ tallinn; stays at Telegraaf in Tallinn start from £173*, telegraafhotel.com; stays at Hedon Spa & Hotel in Pärnu start from £79*, hedonspa.com/en; visitestonia.com/en

Images: Courtesy of venues

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